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clikcing at 3krpm+

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by V-FOUR, May 30, 2011.

  1. V-FOUR

    V-FOUR New Member

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    Doesn't matter if its hot or cold, the clicking is the same. I've read that it could be the timing chain tensioning unit or maybe even un synced carbs. I believe the carbs are in fact unsynced because the bike its hesitant under partial load but its great under full load. I see that a carb syncing unit on ebay is available so I probably should make sure the carbs are properly sync first before opening up the engine right?


    I'm going through maintenance since I just bought the bike. I've changed the oil, fuel filter, refilled the battery, filled air pressure in front and back shocks lubes the chain and topped the brake fluid. I still need to flush the brake fluid and clutch fluid, flush the coolant (order thermostat and gasket too, might as well), change the air filter (ordered K&N) and make a custom fender eliminator out of sheet metal.

    It has Supertapp cans on it (would that change the Air/fuel ratio and mess up the idle? Thanks guys, I have a bunch of questions and I know how it is to deal with newbies, I'll try my best to do my own research.

    EDIT:
    link to new tensioning units (3 and 6)
    http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fich...ry=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1984&fveh=3904
    carb sync:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0686336498&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
    (any good?)
     


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  2. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    If I were to purchase a 500 inspecting the cams, followers, tensioners, and valve tips would top the list of things I would before riding.
     


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  3. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    I'd recommend staying with a stock air filter (soap box moment). Also, while slip-ons sound great they negatively affect performance so a bit of needle shimming may be in order to get the bike back to stock performance.

    In terms of the valve train noise, it could be the tensioners but I would inspect the valve lash and sync the carbs as a first step.

    On a side note, a member of the Yahoo VF500F Group offered a fender eliminator kit awhile back. I am not sure if these are still available but they were very well made and came with excellent installation instructions. Feel free to send me a PM and I'll forward his contact info.

    Good luck and keep us posted on the project.
     


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  4. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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  5. V-FOUR

    V-FOUR New Member

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    Why dont you like the K&N filter, or rather why do you prefer the stock one?
    I bought the .005 and .004 feelers for doing the valves and I'll get the carb sync, the one you posted looks better then the four gauges that I found.

    As for mufflers, the supertrapps look like they dont flow a ton of air. not sure if you have seen this model or not but they flow out the sides of the muffler and not the end(weird). All the discs are in so i figure its not flowing that great compared to a straight though stock setup... maybe not though.

    if you wouldn't mind PM'ing me his info that would be great. Id much prefer a "professional" piece rather then a piece Id try to make, lol.

    Thanks for the info everyone!
     


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  6. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    K&Ns equal more air flow but they accomplish this by letting in more dust. I'm not sure that the very minor HP gains are worth it on the 500. A much better investment would be a 520 chain conversion, IMO. Also, you will definitely need to re-jet if you are going with the K&N. Not that jetting is a deal breaker, but it is best to understand that adding a K&N is not a simple plug and play item. Off the soap box now.

    PM sent re. the fender eliminator kit.

    On a side note you may want to invest in the Factory tools. Not a must have for setting the lash but buying tools is fun, right?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


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  7. V-FOUR

    V-FOUR New Member

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    I have wrenches like that, is that 10mm?

    What is the yellow handled tool? hex? if so what size? I have a decent amount of tools. (just bought the carbtune tool)

    I ca say honestly rejetting scares me, I hate the idea of drilling 27 year old carbs! I've already bough the filter so I guess Ill try it and see if it hurts the performance of it.
     


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  8. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    The Factory offset wrench is 8mm and 10mm. The tappet nut on the VF500F is 8mm. The other tool is for adjusting the tappet. You can also make this from a square drive deck screw and a piece of wood for a handle. Creaky (member here) made quite a nice version awhile back.

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/1st-2nd-generation-1983-1989/34449-doing-valve-adjustment-my-85-vf500.html#post310226

    Don't drill the slides! If going with a jet kit, I've read Factory Pro is the best option in part because you do not have to drill the slides. Shimming the needles should get you close. Keep in mind that the stock '84 has the largest main jets of all the years, so you are already starting with a 'hotter' setup.

    '84
    Model No. VD56A - 32mm Throttle Bore, 6.2mm Float, 102F/105R Main

    '85
    Model No. VD56D - 32mm Throttle Bore, 6.2mm Float, 90F/90R Main

    '86
    Model No. VD31AB - 30mm Throttle Bore, 7.3mm Float, 90F/90R Main
     


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  9. V-FOUR

    V-FOUR New Member

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    so would I even need a rejetting since I have the bigger main jets?
     


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  10. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Hard to say. Jetting is part art and part science. Lots of factors influence the jets and jet needles.

    Before getting to far afield I would recommend inspecting the valve train, setting the lash, checking the carb circuits and resynching the carbs. After you have accomplished this you can dive into jetting.

    Good luck and let us know how you are making out.

    On a side note, get an FSM on your eBay watch list. It's a must have if you plan on wrenching this bike yourself.
     


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  11. V-FOUR

    V-FOUR New Member

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    right right... i had flat feelers, I think I may need bent ones to get into the valvetrain area right? What are carb circuits? I got the sync unit you said too.

    You freaked the shit out of me when you said" On a side note, get an FSM on your eBay watch list." I thought you said "On a side note, get the FSM in your eBay watch list."

    I have one in my watch list and I was like how the F**K does this guy know whats in my ebay account... I thought it was pretty funny.


    Side note:

    just tipped the bike over trying to listen for the tick... FML
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    so now the rear turn signal steam and front left blinker has to be replaced.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2011


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  12. V-FOUR

    V-FOUR New Member

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  13. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Look for one in the original green binder. Much better quality. You should be able to find one in the $25 + shipping range. You may need to be patient but these do show up every few weeks.

    Bummer about dropping your bike. It looks like the fairing has some damage too?
     


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  14. V-FOUR

    V-FOUR New Member

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    yea the fairing was hurt a bit too, im just glad nothing was bent or cracked. I can deal with a bit of scrapped paint on the fairing for now...

    the feelers though, bent or straight? and what are carb circuits?
     


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  15. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    I would recommend straight long blade feeler gauges.

    The carburetor circuits are the metering systems. If you are not familiar with carburetor theory I would recommend checking out a few books on this subject. These will give you a much clearer picture of how to go about inspecting and cleaning the set you have. Also, you may decide after reading up on this to send out to a pro. There are a few people who specialize in V4 carburetors, Billy Carr and Mike Nixon to name two. A search here will give you more info.
     


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  16. InterFester

    InterFester New Member

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    Did you figure out the ticking noise? My '84 has a ticking noise from idle to redline. Valves adjusted, replaced the front exhaust cam, checked out the starter clutch and no change. Seems to be coming from the left front cylinder, No.2, but it's hard to tell for sure.
     


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