Troubles with bleeding the clutch

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by i700plus, May 12, 2011.

  1. i700plus

    i700plus New Member

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    I bled my entire brake system with a mityvac on my 1998 5th gen and thought I had it down great. I got to bleeding the clutch and somehow can't get it to engage fully after flushing out the system. If the bike is off and I pull the lever fully I can barely move the tire. (feels like the brake is sticking) however if its in neutral it moves fine. When I start the bike and pull the lever while in gear the tire stops spinning. It appears to work as normal unless the bike is off.

    I'm thinking this is because the piston isn't pushing the rod all the way in, I tried several solutions.

    1. Bleed with the mityvac several times, almost using a whole 32oz bottle of fluid. the fluid coming out is clear with No bubbles.
    2. Removing the slave cylinder and compressing it and releasing the bleeder screw, letting the fluid out and then tightning the screw and letting the piston move back out a little.
    3. Removing the master cylinder off the handlebar and raising it up to remove air from the banjo bolt.
    4. Pulling the lever all the way and loosening the banjo bolt on the m/c. Then tightening it and releasing the lever.

    It seems to work enough when the bike is running.. however I am almost certain the pistion isn't pushing the rod far enough in to disengage the clutch fully.. I'm lost.

    The fluid that first came out looked like milk, it was bad. the bike has around 26,000 miles on it and I believe this is the first time it has been flushed.

    Right now the bike is sitting with the m/c opened up and a zip tie holding the lever in all the way overnight. I will find out in the morning if this worked to release any leftover air.

    Any ideas?
     


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  2. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    Was the engine cold when you tried this? The clutch plates are more than likely just sticking together because of the cold oil. If your tire stops spinning when the clutch is engaged it's fine.

    you could get it up to temp and try again and see.
     


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  3. camo

    camo New Member

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    I always bleed the old fashioned way as I have never heard of a mityvac. Squeeze lever, open bleed screw, close bleed screw, let off lever. Repeat till fluid comes out clear without contaminants or air. The way I understand hydraulic systems is that they are open only with the lever out, not pulled.

    The good news is that with all that flushing you probably have a pretty clean brake lines.
     


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  4. intrcptr

    intrcptr New Member

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    agree with above ^^^^^^ kinda fail safe...
     


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  5. bobthebiker

    bobthebiker New Member

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    the old school method is pretty failproof. however I like the mityvac because it REALLY speeds the procedure up. and simplifies it. a lot.
     


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  6. Rollin_Again

    Rollin_Again Member

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    I love when people tell me how much better it is to do the clutch the old fashioned way. I made my own bleeder with a mini wet dry vac and pickle jar and it works a treat! It literally takes 45 seconds to do my clutch now. It's all about convenience.

    Rollin
     


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  7. camo

    camo New Member

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    Rollin, Never used a mityvac so can't offer any A-B comparison, just know that a 8mm wrench is all that is really required. Many times I'll will drain the master cylinder and use cotton swabs to carefully clean out the sludge I think it helps with fluid longevity. I generally don't disassemble the system unless there is a leak.

    I buy used bikes and it must an infrequent service item. As you mentioned service involves some mess unless you use a tube and container and is not well understood as to how the hydraulic system works. On my 86 the rear brake was dragging, just needed fresh fluid so all three system got bled.
     


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  8. dino71

    dino71 New Member

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    After much pain an suffering with bleeding anything on my 98 I broke down and purchased the 8 speed bleeders necessary to preform this task but one thing I learned the hard way that may help you is that you have to try and turn then bleeder screw and much to the right as possible, almost to the point where it is hard to pull the lever, I did it this way and almost three years later my clutch lever still feels great and I only have to pull it about an inch to change gears. What I do is just keep my 8mm closed end wrench in an optimum position so I can tighten then screw ever so slightly and it seems to work and I hope it works with your OEM bleeder screws too. If you need a great source for speed bleeders go to Wire My Bike, Josh is a great guy and I have bought many things from him related to 5th Gen VFR's
     


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