Any Opinions on Sprocket Brands? And a few other ?'s

Coming up on a required chain/sprocket replacement and I am looking for opinions on which brand of sprockets are best, are they mostly the same, any I should avoid?

I will most likely keep stock sprocket sizes (for now) because I don't want to worry about a speedo healer.
Also wondering if it is a good idea to switch to a 520 chain/sprocket setup.

Finally, when I go to change them, is it as simple as removing parts that are in the way of the sprockets, etc? I can't seem to find this job in the service manual...

*EDIT--I found the directions for the procedure in the service manual, so forget about that last part. Seems easy enough to do myself with the proper tools. And with previous posts from other VFRW members, I should be good to go on the labor part!

 

Lots of opinions here in VFRW are you kidding? If you want to keep stock gearing hit sprocket center (sprocketcenter.com) Cheap good tool is availale on ebay for like $50 is is a D.I.D knock off and it works really well. Take some time on the front sprocket to clean out the housing really well. This part takes longer than the whole rest of the job. In total it is about an hour job.

 

Sprocket Specialists. Quality made in the USA.

SprocketSpecialists

 

Is this the tool you were talking about? It looks more like the motionPro tool, I couldn't find the D.I.D. replica one. But this one looks fine too (to me)

MOTORCYCLE CHAIN CUTTER RIVETING TOOL BREAKER | eBay

 

Ruh Roh LOL Tink, is that why your bike is so fast and makes those cool space noises?

 

Drive Systems USA.

Click me.>>>>>VFR 800F 02-09 - Drive Systems USA Inc.

 

Nope this one. Motorcycle Chain Tool. Heavy Duty 'Cut & Rivet' Press | eBay

The one you posted works but many people have had the issue of the handle breaking. The link i posted is from UK but they are on ebay every week or so in the US for around $50.

 

SuperSprox - little pricey, but lifetime warranty

 

520 is definitely worth doing. I prefer the aluminum Vortex F5, but I'm sure the steel rears from drive systems would be fine. I know you don't want to do a speedo healer, but I'd also seriously consider adding a couple of teeth to the rear; it's makes a big difference. I don't run a healer on mine either, just figure you're going 10% slower than indicated.

 

a 520 conversion would be fine on the VFR, just use STEEL sprockets. all too many times I go into the shop, and see neglected chains and sprockets, and many missing teeth, or some that you could put on a saw and cut plywood with. guess how many of the ones with missing teeth are aluminum? and have some 5000ish miles, or less.

unless you're racing, aluminum just doesnt pay off. lets face it, the VFR isnt a trackbike. its a multi purpose canyon carver/sport touring/daily rider/grocery getter, all rolled very pleasantly into a cool package with a VERY awesome motor.

Supersprox are a fine choice, best of low weight, and a durable sprocket. plus lifetime warranty to replace the rear should it ever wear out. so long as you keep the chain cleaned, tensioned and dont let it go to hell, the rear wont wear. much.

 

Albeit PTFE hardcoated - I've got 9K on a properly maintained Vortex and it's not showing the slightest wear. You save several pounds on the drive system, better long-term wear on the drive system, free up a few HP, and shifting is much smoother. If you buy the right aluminum, it's a non-issue unless you're pulling 15K+ per season. To put it in perspective - the HP you gain (about 3) is essentially the same amount as you would with $1500+ in exhaust, a PCIII, and a dyno tune (about 5) but at a fraction of the cost.

 

that is quite true. from experience, a LOT of premature wear is caused by riding very aggressively, and wheelies. something I dont see the majority of VFR riders doing. even though I'm new to VFR riders, I'm seeing a significant age and maturity difference here. not that I'm complaining, I like people who ride maturely but know when to have fun.

 

Does that mean that the mileage being added to the odometer is also 10% more than is actually covered by the bike? Not that I'm concerned with the number, just something I would want to keep track of when maintenance intervals are reached. And I think the stock speedo with oem sprockets is about 10% over (e.g. 40mph on speedo=36mph actually), so would it then be more like 20% innaccuracy with the bigger rear sprocket?

 

Yup mileage will increase too

 

Like Beta said, mileage will also be lower than indicated. Adding two at the back is actually a variable percentage inaccuracy. Untill about 30mph it will be spot on, between roughly 30-80mph it will be about 8%-10% off, and from 80mph and over it will be more like 10%-12% off. I've never been able to radar my bike at speeds in excess of 120mph, but I suspect it's off by about 13% at those speeds. The variances are caused by changing rotational diameters of the tire at different speeds.