VFR oil changed toRotella 15w-40 oil?

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by braceyoself777, Apr 28, 2011.

  1. braceyoself777

    braceyoself777 New Member

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    Motorcycle Motor Oil

    Just read that several months ago but I wasn't too sure if anyone else used Rotella T 15w-40 on their bikes. Just recently, I decided to change over to something cheaper and after reading this article, I was convinced to fill up the crank case with "heavy duty" oil Rotella T 15w-40. Anyone else run this stuff? So far the bike is running great!
     


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  2. Queeg

    Queeg New Member

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    i have run it in my old cb550`s and in my atv. never had any problems from oil. hot rodding is another topic.
     


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  3. BWeiss

    BWeiss Johnny Partseed

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    my 99 seems to like it. shifting is really crisp after a change with this.
     


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  4. Rollin_Again

    Rollin_Again Member

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    Great oil for hot climates! I've used it for several years in both my bikes and never had any complaints. I've only recently tried using full sythetics and while I do feel they shift a little bit smoother than fossil based oils I don't think it is a big enough difference to justify the price difference.

    Rollin
     


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  5. creaky

    creaky New Member

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    I've been using it for years in everything from Mack truck engines to lawn mower engines including my motorbikes. I like it just fine.
     


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  6. AZTraveler

    AZTraveler New Member

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    I have used it in my Valkyries, Can Am Spyder and my VFR and have had no problems or issues. Can't beat the value.
     


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  7. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I use it in the summer and 5-30 semi-synthetic in the winter. My gearbox appears to like the Rotella better but not so good starting on 15degrees F mornings.
     


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  8. Davis5g

    Davis5g New Member

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    The 15W40 Rotella in the white bottle is not synthetic. The stuff I use is the 5W40 synthetic Rotella in the blue bottle.
     


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  9. braceyoself777

    braceyoself777 New Member

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    Im glad to hear I'm not the only one that made the switch. Paying $40 for oil and filter for a motorcycle is a tab bit too much for me....especially if I'm changing it at 5K intervals. Regardless, I live in Southern California and it gets pretty hot so I made the switch just in time. As for value....$20 for an oil change and filter isn't bad ;) I don't race, mostly just touring and commute so the high revving only happens when I leave the light and its cruising from there!

    I know the make a semi synthetic in a silver bottle- 10w-40. Anyone running that? I'm switch to that during the winters.
     


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  10. DAC

    DAC New Member

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    Ditto. Switched from 15-50 that previous owner used in the VFR and the only difference I have noticed is the clutch is smoother.
     


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  11. ILuvtheMountains

    ILuvtheMountains New Member

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    Suggestions?

    I'm looking to do an oil change today and will be going to the parts store soon for the Oil and Filter. I will probably go with the Rotella T but wondering which weight to buy. I am a fan of synthetic oils in my cars, but this is the first ever DIY oil change on a bike. I live in CO so it will cool mornings and hot in the day for the rest of the summer. I do like to get the revs up there when I'm riding hard in the mountains. Any suggestions for oil weight and tips for the actual oil change? I haven't tried putting her up on the center stand yet (I'm 5'8" 175) will it be really tough? Thanks guys.
     


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  12. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Putting it on the center stand should not be a problem. I usually put left hand on left grip, get the center stand touching the ground, and right hand on the pannier. I push on the center stand while lightly lifting in the back, and most of the energy is coming from my leg. It usually pops right up. Although I got a few inches and pounds on you, I still think you'll find it easy enough to do.
     


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  13. braceyoself777

    braceyoself777 New Member

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    Well depending on how old your bike is and how many miles it has on it, I recommend just sticking with a heavier weight mineral oil. But regardless, Rotella T comes in three grades fortunately. The standard 15w-40, semi syn 10w-40, and the full syn 5w-40. I would change the oil in that order when the mileage permits. As for the center stand, its easiest to do it when off the bike. Use your body weight to pus down on the stand and push the bike back...pop, the bikes up! Have fun!
     


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  14. ILuvtheMountains

    ILuvtheMountains New Member

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    Its a 2002 with about 23k miles. I'm going with the 15w-40. might actually try the mobil1 4t.
    I don't know why, but I'm super worried i'm going to eff something up. Never taken fairings off before and never changed oil in a bike. Done it plenty of times in all types of cars/trucks. Probably nothing to worry about, just nervous because its the first time...
     


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  15. jlude90

    jlude90 New Member

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    Use the dino, if you're buying synthetic you're throwing your money away. This is great to hear though, I've been running diesel oil in my hondas and high HP evos for a while, so its great to hear I can use it on the bike too.
     


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  16. Mike

    Mike New Member

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    Full synthetic oils and wet clutches, are you sure? Experimented with oils in the Africa Twin and am now looking for a complete secondhand motor due to a blown big end bearing. Anyone got a AT or Trans Alp motor lying around for cheap?

    Cheers
     


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  17. creaky

    creaky New Member

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    Some years ago, I learned a great method of getting a bike on the centerstand. Left hand on the left grip, right foot on the centerstand against the floor, right hand around the left footpeg, lift it up and back with a quick motion, comes up easy.
     


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  18. Spike

    Spike New Member

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    the oil demands of a deisel engine and a modern motorcycle are very different
    yes it is still oil, and so it will do 90% of the same job, but long term, I'd be wary of it
     


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  19. Maggot

    Maggot New Member

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    API (American Petroleum Institute) SG or Higher. Do not use anything saying "Energy Conserving" (Contains Moly = not good for clutch)
    Jaso T 903 MA (Japan Standard I think?!) Motorcycle 4-stroke oil. 10w-40 Is what's recomended.

    Bottom line is if you stay within the standards and use the right weight for your temperature you can't go wrong. 15w-40, 15w-50 when hot no problem 5w-40 at all temps no problem. 0w-30 or 0w-40 when cold no problem.

    Buy what you like and buy what you can afford and above all CHANGE the OIL!

    Dirty oil is better than no oil!! Clean oil is better than dirty oil!
     


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  20. Spike

    Spike New Member

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    Yes, full synthetics are perfectly safe with wet clutches. Many, if not all, bike makers even offer their own brand synthetic -- including Honda.

     


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