Bike is still ruining my day.

Personally I don't even have the time for it anymore. My dad's multiple projects are sitting and he's expecting me to do all the work for him (1964 Ford F100 Custom Cab with a 289 swap, 1971 Lincoln Mark III with a 460ci.) I love the old VF's for childhood nostalgia's sake not to mention the sound of the V4. BUT my one true love will always be 90's CBRs.
It hurts my eyes when I see newer CBRs with the stupid tribal designs and the tiny tails sticking way up in the air. Nothing beats the old CBRs with the ridiculously full fairings all the way back to the taillight.

I've come to terms that I'm going to lose close to $1000 on this bike if I sell it but if I don't sell it then that numbers going to keep going up when I can't afford it.

 

I could be wrong but I think Mitsubishi makes all the "clicker" pumps you find on bikes. Why do you think this has been replaced, just the Mitsubishi logo?
I know they made the clicker in my KTM and the one I put on my TDM, and the bodies look identical to the one in my VFs.

 

I could be wrong since there are slight undocumented differences in the few years of 700s and 750s but in the FSM it shows the connector for the fuel pump having 3 wires and mine only has 2 but doesn't really look home made.

 

There is a mechanic not to far away from you that is really good on older VF'S.Tike's in Covington.He has worked wonders om my VF and isn't to expensive.

 

Yeah I've been to his shop once or twice. I've heard some not so good things about his repairs but I haven't seen any of it firsthand. It seems like he mainly deals in old barn bikes and just gets them in running order then sells them off.

 

On some older bikes there is an insulating gasket between the carb body and the engine, that helps prevent the carbs getting hot and pre heating the fuel. If the fuel heats too early it vaporises early and the engine runs lean. Obviously this doesn't happen until the motor and the carbs are sufficiently hot enough to heat the gas a lot, but it does happen. Check the temp of the carb bodies at the time your surging starts. If the carbs are really hot it might be worthwhile checking to see if there is a thicker carb gasket available that would insulate the carbs from the motor.

Are your fuel lines completely clean? If you have original lines in place they are almost certainly degraded to some degree by now and a piece of the rubber may have come away on the inside and partially blocked the fuel line. Likewise a degraded seal or debris lodged in the in the stop cock could do the same thing.

Good Luck.

 

Your fuel pump only has two wires going to it. One 12v and one ground. The rectangle box w/white connector is your fuel pump relay. That has three wires. One 12v, one grd and the center one is pulse from 2/4 coil/cdi box. The fuel pump is made by Mitsubishi and should have the logo on top of the black cap.

There's a diode in the relay that gets a pulse from the 2/4 cdi box when it fires the 2/4 coil. It closes the circuit in the relay and feeds 12v to the pump. So the pump, pumps every time the coil fires.

If you want to check your pump. Unplug the two wire connector for the pump. put a pin in each connector slot. Apply 12v to the yellow wire and ground the green wire. The pump should start working. You can disconnect feed line to the carbs and pump gas into a container. There is a procedure in the book that tells how much fuel should be pumped.

My 83 will not run on gravity feed or low pump pressure. It acts like your bike. The carbs are not getting enough fuel to keep them full it seems like. Hook pump up and all is back to normal. I found that out last night.