Need help! Important front wheel bearing question.

I went to replace them cause one was a little off on the inside, you could feel it, so I got them out, seated the new ones in, numbers IN, is that wrong? Why? Anyhow, drovem in with the old bearing, had to hit it several times around the edge to seat, semi lightly, both seated but distance collar in the middle is not as loose as it was before I took them off, as a matter of fact, I can barely turn the set now, to loosen them up I would have to drive the distance collar to the side, marring the inside of it, to be able to punch one of them out from their inside, I would have to replace it so it didnt gouge my axle, bang the new bearings out and replace them as well? Or at least one? Or will this whole mess loosen itself out after 50-100 miles or so? Will tightening the axle upon installation tighten up on the other side of the bearing and equalize the force? Or do I REALLY need to have the distance collar loose? The manual says nothing about a clearance and does not have a caution or warning stating that it is bad to have them all butted up together and tight. No such words as "do not seat flush against each other". So whats up?

 

bike info

I forgot to say what I have. It is a 1998 Honda VFR800fi with 44,000 miles on it, I bought it 2 years ago at 35,000 miles.

 

When the whole assembly is put back together and you tighten the axle it will clamp the bearing inner races hard against the spacer (distance collar as you called it). I would suggest that you align the collar and install the axle complete with collars and nut. Tighten the works up to align everything and see if the bearings rotate freely. If they do not rotate smooth and free, they have been damaged during assembly.

 

Thanks

Thx for the advice, I will do that, and if it doesn't spin freely ill go through with the re replacment, ugh.

 

O

BTW is your 2002 a 5th gen?

 

I will try tightening all the works back together when I get my forks back. thanks for the advice and I'll let you know what happens.

 

Update

I put everything back together and the front wheel does not spin as freely as I think it should. I lift the front end off the ground while the bike is on its center stand and spin the wheel as hard as I can and I barely get a full rotation out of the tire/wheel. Guess I need to replace them again and leave that little 2-3? mm of clearance between the 'distance collar' and the bearings

 

And in the future always remember that numbers on ALL bearings on all mechanical things, (cars ,planes, buses) should face the mechanic.


One other thing.. Use a block of wood over the top of the
whole bearing when tapping it into the hole.

Don't let the steel hammer directly hit the bearing.

 

The bearings are ruined because you beat on them.
The spacer between the bearings requires no space.
If you tighten the axle all of the force pulls together the bearing and spacers so there is no play.
The force is on the inner race. It will not effect the bearing.

 

Another trick is to put the bearings in the freezer overnight and the wheels (sans bearings) in the sun on a hot day. Work quickly and they should drop right in. Do not spin the wheel until the temps match.

 

"One other thing.. Use a block of wood over the top of the
whole bearing when tapping it into the hole.

Don't let the steel hammer directly hit the bearing."

Donald: I did not let the hammer strike the installed bearing. I used one of the old bearings in between the hammer strikes and the new bearing. And I was able to spin the bearings during installation, but I DROVE them in and after the 3 piece set was SUPER flush with each other I could not spin them. I think I should go for a little ride and then redo the axle?

 

Thanks to you guys for advicing.

 

Whole shabang needs to come off again anyways, I just learned that the tracking divot in the middle of the steering travel is not a tracking divot, its a notch and it prob happened when I hit the big pothole early last spring that dented both rims (PLEASE DONT TELL ME I HAVE TO REPLACE THOSE AS WELL) so I have to replace THOSE bearings as well. Going to goallballs. Any body know a good city to live in that does not have potholes and frost heave on the fin highways?

 

Evil Cities..What about an evil town?

I have the perfect movie for you. "U TURN" A must see movie.

It is about a guy running from one bad city- and hits a town from hell.

Good luck on your project BTW.

 

When I was growing up and riding around in the desert we used to bend rims all the time.
We always just beat them back into shape with a hammer. But they were steel rims not aluminum.
Just watch for cracking. Don't do this on a 100 mph street bike. It could cost you your life.

 

Your steering bearings and wheel are ruined. "Tracking divot" lol. Are your fork tubes straight?

I usually use a socket that is just a little smaller than the outside race. Wood probably is safer for a bearing driver

 

Can we see some darn pictures PLEASE!!!

 

I can supply pictures. I have to find my digital camera first. Right now the wheel and forks are off again because I am in the middle of replacing the steering stem bearings. Camo, tracking divot was a bit of a joke. Fork tubes are assumed to be straight since they are off and I see no signs of warp and they slide straight into both triple trees nice an smooth. Pics to come.

 

Is there a visible bend in the bottom race?
Yeah I did lol the tracking divot comment

Good luck with your repairs.

 

Hmmm, You know, now may be a good time to look into aftermarket rims...