First timer chain & sprocket swap

Hello Friends, Was searching the internet looking for an inexpensive riveting tool. I came by your thread. First of all thanks for writing up such a detailed review, secondly... do you remember what seller had this tool for sale? I know this thread is almost a year old by now but im looking to purchase the exact same model/ manufacturer.

Thanks so much guys!

 

ok, I just replaced both sprockets and chain on my 2003 VFR but in the process I seemed to have moved the pin that goes thru the transmission. The pin I am talking about is about 1/4" thick and at least 4" to 5" long (I know that his bike used metric, but I am approximating). The pin seems to push into the trans as you press the clutch lever. I cant mount the clutch cover flush as I think the pin is about 1/2" out. How do I push the pin into the transmission? I went thru all the gears and moved the wheel trying to align the pin so that it would slide in but I have had no luck. How do you fix this?
thanks

 

I think the part I am talking about its called the Rod Clutch Lifter, #15 on the diagram on the link below
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/1254-honda-2004-interceptor-VFR800/assemblies/15598

 

I'm in the process of installing +2 on the rear. A word of caution to anyone out there who is pondering doing this yourself: in addition to a chain cutting/riveting tool, you will also need the special spanner wrench for adjusting the chain tension. I got my bike used without this tool, and it didn't occur to me that this would be a problem until I got to the "remove chain" step (can't relieve tension without it). Tool is now ordered, but it looks like my bike will be sitting in the garage half-disassembled for the next 7-10 days while I wait for it to show up... :doh:

Anyway, big thanks to dudealicious for the pictures and tutorial! Very helpful!

 

YES - and don't gloss over this important step if you are riveting your own chain master on. You'll need a micrometer (dial or electronic) to measure the spread of the end of the pin that you are riveting. When it gets to the indicated diameter as specified in the manual, you can stop.
You don't want to go too far, as this could cause a crack in the pin and impact it's reliability. So, go slow and measure it several times until you get it "peened" (spread or flattened) enough.

Now that I think about it, I always replace the stock chains with 520 size replacements, and I had always assumed that the measurement discussed above is the same as for the stock 530 chains... And it does seem about right, and the pin sizes seem the same on both. But I cannot say with certainty that this is true. Oh well, in about 100k miles on chains I haven't had an issue.

EDIT: Ok I asked some "experts" and they suggest to measure the pin before you "flare" it (peen, flatten, spread, can there possibly be any more terms for this!) and expand it by .5 mm.

 

Extra tips.

measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with grinder ;-)

seriously... if you buy some Aluminum turkey basting trays at your local WaK-Mart, they work great as a catch pan under the front sprocket to catch the used chain lube and road debris the gunk collector panel collects. Or use your woman's baking pan.... how many times has she "borrowed" your tools and left them in the kitchen?

 

You can use a flat bladed screw driver and some soft hits from a hammer to adjust/relieve the tension on the chain. Just hit the notches in the eccentric, as long as it isn't seized up it should move easily.

 

I actually did try that before I ordered the tool, but she wouldn't budge. I could see the tooth starting to deform, so I stopped and decided to order the wrench. Oh well...

 

Tool finally showed up, and I finished the swap. After using it, I realize that I could have easily moved the nut with a screwdriver and some light taps with a hammer. My problem was that it was already against the extension stop, and my earlier attempt was trying to turn it in that same direction. :tongue: If I had been smart enough to try both directions, I would have been home free. Oh well, at least I have the right tool now...

Went for a test ride, and I must say - this makes a huge difference! The extra oomph is nice, but even more than that I like the change in RPM. The bike just feels better riding around town.

Thanks again for the photos and guide! Made this process less intimidating. :thumb:

 

When looking at the service manual it looks as if you have to drain and remove the clutch slave cylinder? Do you have to do this to take the cover off or can you just leave it on and remove the cover?

 

The parts you remove won't get you in that deep, so no you don't need to drain/service the clutch slave cylinder.

 

Just changed my chain & sprockets today, and having this thread for some info & pics was quite comforting; thanks.

One thing I'll throw in that son told me: for keeping things locked so you can loosen and then reinstall the sprocket bolt & nuts, use a cargo tie-down strap. Hook the hooks to somewhere on the frame and run the strap around one of the spokes(toward the front for loosening, the back for tightening). Things can move a little, but the strap will keep the wheel/chain/sprockets from being able to turn.