My 1998 VFR800 just up up and died on me yesterday

My first clue that the battery was gonna be trouble that day was at the charity ride's starting point.

Everyone started their engines and sat still for 10 minutes while the riders filed out of the parking lots and onto the road. When it was my turn to move, I let out the clutch and it stalled. Which was weird, because it wasn't my fault and the bike was in first gear.

When I went to restart it, the clock & both trip meters all reset themselves to their factory defaults. I figured I'd drained the feeble battery by idling too long. I had to pop-start it and I knew I'd probably have to do it again for the ride home, but I wasn't worried about the ride itself.

What I DIDN'T realize is that this situation could kill the bike DURING the ride. I thought the charging system would charge the weak battery back up to it's so-so level and things would keep humming along until I got to the ride's end point.

I should've gotten up a half hour earlier and put in the new battery BEFORE the charity ride.

I guess I earned myself an "F" for that day's thinking. Live and learn!


Many thanks for replying to my message to both KNIFE and KARAZY!

 

You're right CARNAGE......it's always a good idea to seek out loose wires. Whether any electrical problems have reared their ugly heads into the light of day or not. Especially on an 11+ year old bike. I checked my main fuse on Sunday and it was ok. The fan fuse was blown, but who knows when that happened. Even so, I'll double check the fan's wiring and the fan itself for problems. Maybe the fan was the reason for the battery drain in the first place!

As a side note:
I've had my 2000 Kawasaki for over 5 years now and there have been ZERO electrical problems.
There have been a few, minor mechanical problems but it's never left me stranded. Not even close.
I've had my 1998 Honda for only a couple months and this happens. I'll give the VFR a new battery and get this problem fixed, whatever it is. I hope this is the last time she does this to me, or else she may find herself up for sale!

 

I didn't find any obvious results from searching, but I just picked up a '99 VFR and I was wondering if anyone knows of a good way to *prevent* the R/R from taking a nose dive? Perhaps a larger heat sink or some more active cooling method like a small fan with a heat sensor?

 

Seems like all the tech info is getting covered, but I'd just like to throw out a few things I try to Do/Not do, while out for a ride..... Turn my bike off at long lights(If it's safe)..... Try to go around slow areas.... When going though a string of lights, try to time the light so you're always moving.... Don't join in these big group rides if they're going to move slow and stop/start a lot .(just give them the money hang around to they leave and meet them at the other end, won't miss the social action).

Good post... and answers. I didn't know about the WIKI(what a great tool)...
Also I really like that aftermarket r/r..... Thx
I liked that artical on what/how these different electrical components work, as well
GOOD STUFF

 

When I had my 99'VFR I cut out the vent hole in front of my r/r to open it up for more air flow, Now my 08' has it in the front....
But I'll up grade to the aftermarket one anyway... Maybe look to see if I can mod the area to give it some ram-air help as well...........

 

does anyone know if the RR has been as problematic on the 6th gen?

or has the relocate helped to reduce overheating?

i like the sound of monks potential mod...:thumbsup:

i must admitt ive done alot of group rides and have never had this problem but will now take it into consideration for future events..

great thread!

 

I also own a 98 VFR and after almost 11 years of ownership mine just stopped to for no apparent reason especially sine I bought a new batter from the Batteries Plus store back in April so since it had a 12 month warranty I took it back for another one and once I put the new battery in it ran like a champ again. Back in 1999 I had the dealership install the new (at the time) redesigned R/R and its never failed me. You might be able to get the part number off of it to see if your bike had the newer one or not. I have heard rumors that some people have put in R/R's from Yamahas and Suzuki's with great results, there might be a how-to on this somewhere.

 

The 08' has a different looking r/r, and the fins seem a little longer(I can't tell if the wire gauge has changed) but the location is in more air.... but it's also mounted about a ¼" away from the frame, which generates a lot of heat of it's own, which isn't helping anything......

 

Just a little FYI.. When I get a new battery, I will put them on my trickel charger before installing..... New and on the shelf(how long?), or a fast charge from the store..... I just bought a battery for my 94 Jeep(YJ).... Asked if it was charged.... They said yes ready to go.... took it home and stuck it on my charger.... took just under 15 hours to show a full charge........

 

On the 6th Gen you have to worry about the CCT and yes the 6th Gen has two of them and yes they are a pain in the ass to get to. I know someone who is on his second set. You would think Honda would get this dam parts right by now? Especially since they are critical to the function of the bike

 

One of the cct's is splash oiled and it is said to be a problem if the wrong(read; heaver weight) engine oil is used....... It's what I heard......

 

I know this is lame, but I have to ask...you didn't by chance accidentally hit the engine run/stop switch...and if not, you're sure that switch is functioning correctly?....sidestand switch checks out ok?

 

Guys, I still have a few Panaflo (computer type) fans for sale.

These work great when attached to the regulator (with 4 nylon tie-wraps)

Also, install the larger wires from: WireMyBike.com

Fans are $15 plus $3 for shipping.

Not sure if there is enough room to put these on the newer regulators with bigger fins.

Has anyone done this?

I have 6 left. Let me know if you want one.

porsche.bob@sbcglobal.net

Carry On ~

 

I know he fixed the problem with a new battery but I was thinking of this as well. There have been a couple of times for me when attempting a restart, nothing, then a quick cycle of the start/stop switch and voila-- power!! I also had mine strand me at a gas station after stopping for gas-- only to find that the ground wire had work itself, almost imperceptibly, loose. All I did was tighten the terminal bolt. I mean It barely turned and power!! I have since cleaned both posts...

 

yep, done this last year. Wired it up to an ignition live so its on when the bike is running. Nice fit, no problem on my 4th gen. Dont know if its just honda but ive had a couple of bikes with similar probs and they have all been honda. Never had this with a yam or suzy, saying that i had an aprilia which burned the sh#t out of my leg once lol.:smile:

 

If the lights and horn work but will not turn over it is the battery connections or the battery.
Happens on cars ALL THE TIME.
Cables will just not support the load of the starter with bad connections.
The battery terminals get a black grease like coating and then you are done.

 

*pre existing?
Ummm, yah, sure, okay. You gottit there dude.

 

Ok, something ridiculous like 18 months have gone by since you originally replied to my post. I have no excuse for the delay, but to answer your question no, I didn't hit the emergency kill switch and the wiring in there is fine. The new battery seemed to fix the problem for 12 months, but then the battery went bad exactly 3 'effing' days past warranty! Can you believe that crap, 3 DAYS!?! And the dealer wouldn't work with me on it. So, $85 later I've got a new battery and everything has been great (knock on wood). Thanks for asking though.

 

That's something to keep in mind, for sure. Thanks for putting it out there.
As an aside, that's a nice looking bike in your pictures! Why the double cans
on the right side? What kind of improvement does that offer?