Tips for trailering your bike

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by thebatmovile, Feb 25, 2011.

  1. thebatmovile

    thebatmovile New Member

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    When i trailer my bike i like to keep the suspension as "unloaded" as possible. The downside to this is when you go over bumps the suspension will compress and sometimes the hooks on the straps fall off. One time i lost a strap and my bike almost fell over on the trailer

    This is what i did so that would never happen again.........

    [​IMG]

    I cut the standard hooks off the straps and replaced them with closed links. I use soft straps wrapped around the fork tubes at the triple clamp on the front and around the rear frame in the back (i dont have passenger pegs) This works great! Ive towed my bike up to 1500 miles without any issues
     


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  2. thebatmovile

    thebatmovile New Member

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    Im getting my ass reamed hard on SBN for this. It works great for me but I guess its not a very good tip.
     


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  3. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    All my straps use the closed end just like yours. I got tired of mine coming lose also, but mine does ride inside anyway. :)

    Why isn't it a good tip? And why are you getting reamed?
     


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  4. thebatmovile

    thebatmovile New Member

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    Apparently the "correct" way to do it is to just tie the bike down so hard that its practically touching the deck of the trailer.

    I say no thanks to that
     


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  5. Keager

    Keager Member

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    compressing the springs is what I have done the few times I've had to trailer a bike. That is the way Honda ships to the dealers.
    I think that is the way all manufacturers do, even the 4 wheeled ones. It saves wear & tear on the suspension. Knew some folks one time that bought a brand new Volvo, and when it came in the front shocks were worn out because they think the strap came loose during transport from Europe.

    I also use a cross bar strap, gives a point to pull down on the bars without having to put hooks where hooks don't belong.
     


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  6. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    This is a very simple topic that people seem to complicate for no freaking reason. It's VERY simple. Use a chock. The kind that snaps/locks in place. Some are cheap. Some are not cheap. ALL OF THEM are superior to using a Canyon Dancer or plain straps. There are ones that can be rested in a truck bed. There are ones that can be bolted to whatever. Don't be cheap & tie down a $10000+ bike with $10 worth of straps.


    Here's a cheap one:
    Motorcycle Stand/Wheel Chock - Lifts & Stands - Automotive & Motorcycle

    Here's a middle priced one:
    Condor Trailer Only Chock Simple Chock-Trailer Only w/Kit - Tobefast
    (I've been using a pair of these ones since 2005. All I do is roll the bike in & use a single strap on each passenger peg. I've NEVER had a problem.)

    Here's the top of the line, it locks in place:
    Baxley Wheel Chock - Sport Chock


    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     


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  7. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Yes, the Condor chocks are the ones I use. They do work wonders and you don't have to strap the bike down very much at all. Love 'em.:clap2:
     


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  8. thebatmovile

    thebatmovile New Member

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    That really puts it into perspective, i kinda feel like a dumbass now :tongue1:


    I do use a chock though, one of those little cheapos just to keep the front from turning
     


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  9. Rollin_Again

    Rollin_Again Member

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    I've got the heavy duty combination chock / bike stand from harbor freight and it works great. Of course like most things from Harbor Freight, the damn thing almost weighs as much as the bike itself LOL! Trust me the bike isn't going anywhere with one of these things and a set of canyon straps and I've tested it thoroughly on some very twistie roads.

    Chock.jpg


    Rollin
     


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  10. PorscheBob

    PorscheBob New Member

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  11. thebatmovile

    thebatmovile New Member

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    I had no idea there were so many options for straps. And here i am making my own :lol:
     


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  12. PorscheBob

    PorscheBob New Member

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    I like what you did. Big improvement over the open hooks.
     


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  13. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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  14. Cogswell

    Cogswell New Member

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    The swivel feature is great. I wonder why just on one end though?? I want to completely get away from open hooks - hate 'em. I had my wallet out reading the article then saw the other end of the strap . . .

    For chocks, an even cheaper solution is to bolt 4 short lengths of scrap 2x4 to the bottom / front wall of the trailer (won't work if the bike isn't pushing up against the front). Drilled 2 holes for each in the floor / front wall of the trailer (mine has 3/4" plywood floor), installed some well nuts from the back side and then bolt down the 2x4's (about 18 " long -with holes drilled to match the floor). The 2x4's are spaced apart the same width as the tire and are centered on the floor and vertically at the axle. Total cost was about $3 at the hardware store. When I'm done I just run the bolts out and I have a smooth floor back.
     


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  15. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    I guess I should have clarified my point.

    The main reason a roll over chock is superior is because it will then rotate with the bike & lock in place. The Condor one I use relies on weight over center & gravity to work as does the Harbor Freight & most other roll over chocks. The Baxley model actually uses a lever that locks the roll over mechanism in place, completely removing the possibility of the bike rolling out unless you want it to.

    The simple POS chocks that serve only to locate the front tire are one step above useless in my book. You still need to hold the bike up. You still need help to secure the bike. You still need something to secure the grips/bars. You still have nothing preventing the front wheel from rolling out if the straps loosen up. With the chock I have, I ride, not push, RIDE the bike into the trailer & onto the chock. It rotates into place & I hop off the bike & can leave it like that until I get the other bike in. When I go on vacation, I park them in the trailer. When I'm driving the trailer, it's a single strap on each passenger peg & that's it. I've trailered my bike for 700+ miles in this manner & not one time have I ever had a problem.

    I offer the following as proof of my theory:

    http://store.condor-lift.com/pages.php?pageid=5

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6Fujtq0nBI&feature=related

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     


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  16. thebatmovile

    thebatmovile New Member

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    Theres no doubt that a roll-on chock is superior in every way shape and form. Its just that some of us dont have an expendible budget for trailers and trailer accessories. :wink:

    That being said, i had no idea you could get a chock for 50bux either. Ill probably go ahead and upgrade just for the advantage of being able to leave it standing while i prepare the straps.

    Its going to look pretty ridiculous on my trailer though, the trailer was only 50bux more that that top of the line chock you posted earlier :lol:

    Furthermore, if i had known there were so many options for closed end straps i would'nt have posted this thread, i thought i had invented something :lol:
     


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  17. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    The best fora for trailer queens is a Harley BB. This includes permanent installations.
     


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  18. Knife

    Knife Member

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    I bought two roll-on chocks about two years ago on sale for $19.95 each (regularly $49.99 each). Very well made and sturdy. Still in their boxes, though. Haven't yet gotten a trailer.
     


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  19. checksi6

    checksi6 New Member

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    + 1 to KC-10 FE. i use a covered trailer, and trailer a lot, and the Baxley Trailer Chock is nothing but superb. Condor is excellent also! Never tried the Harbor Freight version but thought about picking one up with one of those harbor freight coupons in the magazines.
     


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  20. revguy

    revguy New Member

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    I ride my bike !!!
     


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