Need a little repair advice

I've heard mixed stories about super concentration of SeaFoam in engines. My buddy hates the stuff because he put a full big bottle in his Bronco and he swears that it messed it up to the point that it needed a top end rebuild. Honestly, I think he just had a piece of shit to begin with.

Try it with the recommended ratio at least once. If the result isn't noticeable after the first tank, I'd then consider a second dose or maybe even concentrating it to a bottle to a half tank. I wouldn't go any stronger than that because although it is flammable, it's not very combustible... meaning that it's going to detonate in the cylinder rather than combust as would a normal octane gasoline, which will make your car run like shit and possibly fall on her face.

I've used SeaFoam in every vehicle that I've owned/worked on the since I started @ MMI last January and was told to use it my on my '86 VFR750 to clean the pistons and ports (they looked like a cave full of stalactites and stalagmites). I just bought a '92 Cadillac STS for myself and it ran rough on idle even after replacing the plugs and wires. A bit of carb cleaner sprayed into the butterflies and a can of SeaFoam later and she purrs like a kitten.

 

As I'v tried the recommended amount before without luck, I just added the full can to a 1/2 tank. I didn't know SeaFoam wasn't very combustible. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with B-12 Chem Tool. It's advertised to do basically the same thing SeaFoam does, but in my experience it seems way, way more corrosive than any automotive product I've come in contact with. Perhaps I'll try that next 1/2 tank if I'm still having this issue.

 

Not familiar with B12, and I'm sure guys like Lazy know what they are doing, but I know I've had good luck/success with Techron. Just my $.02

 

What is the difference if any between Seafoam and the half dozen other injector cleaning additives on the shelves at Wallys, Kraken ,Costco or NAPA?

Most, or so I understand call for adding same to a nearly empty tank and then filling the tank.

 

Techron works good too... a bit more expensive but it does the job, Pliskin :thumbsup:

As for the B-12 Chem Tool... I have no experience with it so I can't say yes or no.

 

Good call, I'm going to check right now.

 

There is no sensor behind the cat on my car. If the source of my troubles is a clogged catalytic converter I will be thrilled. Even though the part is outrageous, it's well worth having the problem fixed. I'll go out there and tech it a little more before I call it quits for the night.

 

If it was the oxygen sensor or fuel/air sensor I would assume a completely different code would be thrown.

Rollin

 

I just tested the car at idle with the oxygen sensor before the catalytic converter out. I did so to test if the converter was clogged. If it is clogged, the engine should run better with the o2 sensor out, as the back pressure has a path of escape. Here is the video guys, I can't really tell if my problem is fixed our not. I'd appreciate input!

YouTube - 2003 Eclipse GT Tachometer Gauge (Hunting Idle) P0300 w/ CAT UNHOOKED

 

Seafoam is a solvant based cleaner. Lucas oil makes one tht is a non solvant based cleaner. It is like $4-5 at wal-mart. Throw that in the tank. Also, what about he battery. Did i miss a post on that? Did you check that. Strange things come from bad battery. Mas air flow if dirty will just make it run too rich or too lean. Spray brake or contact cleaner across the sensor wire. But it does not sound like your problem. Honestly it sounds ignition related spark, fule air or bad or clogged injector.

 

Hey Tink,

My research into a clogged cat condition is 5 or more lbs of pressure between the cat and the engine. A redneck way to check is to pull that o2 sensor so that there can be no pressure and see if it runs better. I tried that, and then I did one better. I rigged up a compression tester to the o2 sensor port to check for the exact compression between the two, not just a redneck "does it run gooder". I barely got a fluttering .25 to .5 lbs of pressure, so my cat could not possibly be clogged. After the test I plugged the o2 sensor back in to resume it's duties, and continued to scratch my head.

I've found 6 used fuel injectors for sale for $40 shipped, which is the cost of labor to remove a single injector. I'm toying with the idea of buying the whole set for $40 (insanely low, as I've been selling them on eBay for $38 a piece plus shipping, and yeah hindsight is 20/20), and having the used set professionally tested and cleaned and throwing them in. It's certainly a throwing parts at a problem approach, but I'v done a fair bit of eliminating, and I can install them myself. But we'll see what happens.

Keep the input coming guys, I really appreciate the interest and help.

 

We're thinking along similar paths. I'v mentioned a possible need for a new battery ($63 Wmart), and my entire intake and MAF is cleaner than the day it came off the line. The car seems to idle better when the MAF is unplugged, but that's because the car is idling a little higher than normal with it unplugged, masking the misfire. It's definitely still there. The possibility of a clogged injector is my next step.

 

Honestly, i am ot one for additives. I throw a bottle of fuke systme cleaner in when doign oil chainge etc. I never really notived any difference or change. I have use seafoam, gmout etc . No noticable diff. I tried the lucas one day. And it was a noticable diff. I tracked my mileage and gained aout 2mpg. Engine idle is rock steady and quieter / smoother. I decided to see if others had similar experience only kto find ons and tons of positive experience. Also bobs the oil guys gives good info and results as well.

I read oi changed plugs but have you pulled them and inspected for fowling?

 

Perhaps I just need new, new plugs. I replaced the plugs and wires, and my issue was not fixed. I then discovered that my EGR pipe was not firmly connected, and my crank position sensor harness was damaged. I fixed those and my car went from completely undriveable to intermittent p0300. Maybe the new plugs were fouled by the EGR + CPS issues, and now that's all that is left.

Does anyone know how to test for a damaged ECU? The CPS harness had worn down, allowing the two bare wires to rub against themselves. I'm wondering if my problem is due to a short circuit that screwed up my ECU.

 

How many wires go to the crank position sensor? 2 or 3? If its 2 then you should be fine as the sensor would be a permanent magnet type that generates a current and sends it back to the ecu as a sine wave AC pattern. If there are three wires then the sensor is likely a hall effect sensor with a 5 volt reference from the ecu which is then modified into a square wave digital output and sent back to the ecu. It is possible that a short in a circuit such as this one could damage the ecu, but there are current limiting resistors in the ecu designed to prevent this. If the signal from the CPS was irregular it would likely throw a code for it. I have only seen one bad ecu, and the vehicle would not run at all. When hooked up to a snap-on modis scan tool that can read live data there was no signal at all from the crank sensor when cranking the motor over. By backprobing the connector at the ecu with t-pins we found that there was an input from the crank sensor to the ecu. I'm not saying ecu's don't go bad, but it is highly unlikely.

 

3 wires connect to it. I have not been able to inspect it yet though, inspection requires the timing belt to be removed, along with a mess of other small parts. Replacing the timing belt on my care is a nightmare, so I need a few days to work on it.

 

I pulled the 3 front plugs to see what they could tell me. It looks like the plug wells need new seals, but I don't think that there's enough oil to cause a misfire on my plugs. these plugs have maybe 15k on them, and they look fine to me. A little oil on them, but I don't think they are fouled. What do you guys think?

The plugs:





The oil wiped off the threads:


The wells:

 

Anyone with insight on the condition of the plugs?