cranshaft seal replacement.

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by gearhead132, Jan 10, 2011.

  1. gearhead132

    gearhead132 New Member

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    so, i know i havent been on here in awhile....but wintertime has caught up with me, and its time to do something about that dime size drip i leave everywhere i go. My 1996 vfr 750 is dripping out of the crank seal right behind the front sprocket. picked up new seals in november, noticed the seal has a ridge that looks like it requires crankase to be split. tabled the project for a time when i wasnt as busy. any pointers on this? engine need to be dropped out, any shortcuts, suggestions or pointers toward a thread that this has been covered in would be great!
     


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  2. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    No pointers, but I'm pretty interested as my VFR is just a few drips shy of graduating to the patented by harley kitty little in a cardboard box parking helper.
     


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  3. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Are you referring to the countershaft seal? Someone has bound to have done this but I do have a split 3rd gen motor on the bench I could look at and photograph if necessary.

    The clutch pushrod seal is also in that same location and I've read that it is prone to leaking.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2011


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  4. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    It appears you are correct. If it is the countershaft seal you are referring to, my inspection shows the case must be split. If however, the leak is the clutch pushrod seal, you should be able to pry it out and push in a new one. You can see the pushrod seal in the case wall, right above the countershaft in my photo (on the end of the other gearset).

    Splitting the case is pretty much a complete motor overhaul because the bottom half of the case is your crankshaft main journal caps.


    [​IMG]
     


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  5. gearhead132

    gearhead132 New Member

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    balls. it is for sure the countershaft seal, sorry for calling it crank seal you can tell my mind is still thinking in snowmobile engine terms. i removed the clutch assembly to check where the oil was coming from, there is a small drip forming there after every time it runs. i have the tools and know how to split the case, im not afraid of doing it i just wanted to know if the motor had to come out.

    i have so much time and effort into this bike, full paint job, suspension work, and i was planning on selling in the spring to get a 1000rrr and now if i do all that work to fix the leak, i will probably want to keep it.........
     


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  6. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    balls in a vice.

    I have much pity for your situation.

    Installing a keggerator in the garage is a must before taking on this project.

    If you have a couple extra bones to throw down, you may consider getting a custom set of high compression pistons made. Just a thought. Might at least make the project feel like more fun.
     


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  7. a90s2cs

    a90s2cs New Member

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    You can take the front head off with the motor in the bike but for pretty much everything else just take the motor out. It's pretty easy actually, just clean and label everything as you go & recording the order it all came off helps too.
     


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  8. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    removing the clutch basket requires a special socket. You have to remove the clutch basket to remove the oil pump drive chain. You have to remove the oil pump drive chain to remove the oil pump. Oil pump has to come out for obvious reasons. I don't remember all the details but I remember I found no other way around it. Finally resorted to hauling the case up to local dealer and offering sexual favors to have their service guy break it loose with their special tool.

    Other than that, I can think of no landmines.
     


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  9. gearhead132

    gearhead132 New Member

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    well, in previous years, i have had engine out of bike for other stuff, i have tool for clutch basket laying around somewhere if its the same socket as for my f4i stunt bike, its just i was realy hoping there was someway around the inevitable. i guess this weekend i fire up the the heater in the ole garage and drop the engine...probably take it to work to open up the case on the bench where its warm and i have more tools then at home. thanks for the pics, is there any sealer you would reccomend for the crankcase? like yamahbond, or permatex grey rtv that gets rock hard is what we use at work for honda car oil pans, or permatex anerobic i know i have done some snowmobile case halves with. again, thanks for the pointers.
     


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  10. a90s2cs

    a90s2cs New Member

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    The sealant the factory uses looks and feels like regular black RTV. I used red RTV, I wouldn't use anything that "hardens" you may never get it apart again. The cases are a "matched" set so theoretically it shouldn't even need sealant, but this aint a perfect world.
     


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  11. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Seems silly to do an engine job to fix a small, non-critical leak that serves to keep your chain oiled.

    Just the cost of gaskets alone can't be cheap. And it would take a LONG time, and there's always a chance something could go wrong.

    Leave it alone, and use cardboard, as suggested.

    On the other hand, a leaking countershaft seal could be the result of a failed bearing just behind it, which is often the result of an over-tightened chain, and THAT would require a repair.

    You might be able to detect loose movement of the shaft or hear or feel roughness if the bearing is shot.
     


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  12. a90s2cs

    a90s2cs New Member

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    A good overhaul could save you LOTS of $ in the long run if you plan on keeping the bike. An overhaul would have prevented my catostophic engine failure that resulted in broken case, rods, pistons, gaskets mirrors, levers, bars, foot pegs, tires & damage to all the fairings. The repair estimate I got was much more than the book value of the bike. But hey, now I get a fresh start with her (and second job to pay for it all).
     


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  13. gearhead132

    gearhead132 New Member

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    since i plan on selling the bike anyway to go with a litere bike for awhile (im sure il come back to another vfr at some point!) think i should just knock the price down, cut my losses rather then bust my balls on a project that i wont see the benefit of anyway? And squirrelman, exelent thought about the overtightened chain......
     


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  14. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    +1 with Squirrel, way too much work unless it gets too bad and even worse project for gen 5.
     


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