The BEST chain tool ??

Discussion in 'Gear & Accessories' started by squirrelman, Dec 18, 2010.

  1. Dragone19

    Dragone19 New Member

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    hmm, using master clips? They do work if positioned properly. I generally safety wired mine and place blue rtv on the ends for another good quick inspection prior to riding.

    I have 4 "chain breakers" in the box. The pins are no where strong enough alone, so the grinding wheel used first, then use the tool (or a properly sized pin punch) to press out the pin has worked best for me. I prefer the Jumbo Motion Pro for drive chains when pressing. For cam chains, the other presses work good enough.
     


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  2. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Of coarse you sand or grind the ends of the pins off first. You did not know that?
     


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  3. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    The same reason the new Boeing 787 dreamliner had to have 3,000 special bolts removed and replaced.

    The young guys installing them did not check the fit. They did not have any older technicians to show them anything.

    They were just handed the bolts and just put them in. Did not check to see how they fit.

    Old guys rule.

    Just like the chain breaker. I had to have an older guy show me how to use the tool.
    Now you young guys just might think us older guys might know something and actually ask us for help.

    BTW if you did put a safety wire on the master link clip (bad idea), it will get snagged.
    And there would not be enough of the pin sticking out to put the safety wire on it anyway. Just make sure it is facing the right direction is all.
     


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  4. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    You really inspect it before each ride?
     


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  5. bitterpil

    bitterpil New Member

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    The D.I.D and clone break just fine not grinding. It punches the pin out with just a couple turns of the bolt and it presses the side plate and rivets the pins and is hard to over rivet / peen the pins. I guess if i had a grinder uti dont and ddnt need one.
    Im old but i just read the directions. Im slow like that hehehehe.
     


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  6. Dragone19

    Dragone19 New Member

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    hence the grinding wheel bro.

    I pulled 20plus yearly track times, with that method since 1990 until maybe 2006. I did not say it is the best method, but it worked. And it passes tech.

    edit: It is amazing how many chains get skylined on the start when not properly secured.
     


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  7. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    A bit more intel on Patton.

    Being a bit of tool junkie, I wrote the the company inquiring where I could purchase one of their ANSI 25-60 chain breakers (this works on 520 and 530 motorcycle chains).

    Patton Tools is owned and operated by the third generation of Smalls who originally purchased the tooling company back in 1947. They are located in Westfield, MA. After writing to them, I promptly received a return e-mail from Frank Small, the president and grandson of the original owner. Frank suggested a few retailers, including my go-to favorite McMaster Carr.

    I placed an order with McMaster and received the breaker in a couple days.

    The chain breaker is very nicely made and heavy duty. I'll be looking forward to giving it a try on my next chain install.

    I have included a few photos of the tool for reference.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


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  8. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    I have had one of the Patton chain breakers for a couple decades. It's heavier duty than the one shown by invisible cities, and you definitely don't need to do any grinding to press out the rivet pins. It also has a straight pin so it pushes the pins out farther. It wasn't cheap but it sure does the job with a minimum of effort.

    I also use the Motion Pro and a dial caliper to install the masterlink and set the rivet heads. Works great.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2010


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