Vf500F rear wheel replacement questions

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Falconeer, Dec 16, 2010.

  1. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    Greetings folks,

    The replacement rear wheel (used from eBay) for my VF500F arrived today. I'm hoping to get it on the bike this weekend.

    The replacement wheel comes with the driven sprocket and the brake disc. I'm going to move the driven sprocket from the old wheel to the new wheel (as to not mess up the chain). Should I also move the brake disc from the old wheel to the wheel?

    Also, what should the rear axle be lubricated with before remounting the wheel? Are there any other lubrication tasks involved?

    Thanks in advance!
     


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  2. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    If it were me, I'd use the sprocket and disk that looked to be in the best condition. The ones on the new wheel could be better - or not.

    The axle is only lightly greased with a film of grease to make it easier to remove later on and prevent corrosion. Has nothing to do with how the wheel spins.

    There are sealed bearings in the hub of the wheel. They do not get lubrication. You can check them for play or if you have a few extra bucks you could get new ones from Rocky Mountain Supply for around $10-15 each?
     


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  3. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    I was under the impression that the front and rear sprockets and the chain were kind of a 'matched set'. If the chain had to be replaced both sprockets should be replaced also. That was my thinking regarding the driven sprocket. Make sense?
     


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  4. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    this is true

    No argument with that as a general rule.

    I can say, when I got that bike, the sprockets were in excellent shape but the chain was stretched out beyond the adjustment available. So, someone prior to me changed something that wasn't a matched set. I replaced the garbage stretched chain but not the sprockets. So now your new chain with about 3000 miles on it wasn't "matched" to begin with and that's why I say if one is slightly nicer than the other then I would go with that.

    Just the history as a know it and the basis of my "opinion". Right or wrong. I'm sure you can get a dozen different opinions.
     


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  5. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    That makes sense. Just to clarify, 'nicer' when it comes to the rear sprocket means least wear and straightest 'points'?
     


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  6. Michael E

    Michael E New Member

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    After you get the new wheel bolted up tight, be sure to check for bearing play. You can do this by crouching down beside the wheel, grabbing the top of the tire with one hand and bracing yourself holding the side of the bike with the other hand. Push and pull the tire hard. There should be no play.

    Least wear, yes. I wouldn't call it "straightest" because when good they are curvy and symmetrical (matching upslope and downslope and rounded, even points).

    It doesn't sound like you have a shop manual. At the very least you should download a Clymer manual. See the sticky.
     


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  7. rpierce

    rpierce New Member

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    My Honda service manual for the 700 and 750 has a pretty awful picture to explain sprocket wear.

    Maybe I'm crazy but I think the guys making this manual were drunk when they made this.

    [​IMG]
     


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  8. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    Agreed choose from the best of what you have.
     


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  9. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    Verily.

    I have the Clymers manual and will be using it. I mainly wanted to confirm or deny my thoughts regarding the 'matched set' idea of chain and sprockets.

    Hope to have the bike running again this weekend! :)
     


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  10. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    get that fork seal taken care of? I had to do both fronts on the DR last week.
     


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  11. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    Not yet. I have the parts though. If you're still willing to assist let me know when you're available. :biggrin:
     


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  12. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    can do. you'll be surprised how easy it is. Was planning to hit the dirt with the DR but looks like the cool weather has people wimping out.

    Might be available early saturday before it warms up outside.
     


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  13. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    That sounds great to me. I doubt I'll have the rear wheel on by that time but I don't see that it would affect doing the fork.
     


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  14. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    will confirm with you later today. Have to check with my buddy up the street to get his seal driver.
     


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  15. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    Sounds good. Thanks kindly!
     


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  16. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Good deal! Nice to see a post like this. Good luck with the wheel and the fork seals.
     


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  17. Falconeer

    Falconeer New Member

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    Thanks kindly! :smile:
     


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  18. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    you should make the douche bag that sold you the bike fix the leaky seal...AND give you a good honda manual...clymers are crap...

    the picture that you posted about the wear on the sprocket is fine... the bottom section shows a good sprocket and the other two show wear and where the teeth should be.... its a better look in person though I'll give it that
     


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