Choke Question

Hey everyone -

I am trying to troubleshoot an issue with a 96 VFR. I think it has something to do with the choke/choke cable. I took everything apart down to the top of the carburators so I can see into them. When I engage the choke, I see the assembly move on the top and bottom of the carbs - but I do not see any movement inside of the carbs. What should I see (if anything) when I engage the choke?

 

Understood. So, what is the best way to tell if that enrichment circuit is working as it should?

 

Bike is hard to start when it hasn't been ran for about 6+ hours. Choked or not, it doesn't like to start up. If I give it a steady ~1/8 a turn of throttle it will usually start up... just doesn't seem like much happens with or without the choke on. It was easier to start prior to the last tank of gas, when I decided to add Seafoam to the tank. I've ran that tank out, replaced the fuel filter and checked the plugs (which I just replaced) and they seem good.

I am thinking it is either something in the slow jet, something with the choke, or (not sure) the air filter? I pulled that out and it seems pretty dirty.

 

I originally ran the Seafoam because whenever I engaged the choke the engine would instantly die. Whether I started it with the choke in, or switched the choke on while it was running the engine would cut out. If the bike had just been started (like 2-3 minutes) and I "gingerly" applied the throttle the engine would cut out.

Once the bike warms up now (~20-30 seconds) it runs great. Idles well.... no problems besides the startup.

 

Yep, I've read that advice in a lot of places....

Thanks.

 

This may seem newbie-ish... I've looked through the service manual and cannot find an "idle air mixture screw". Would it have another name? Where should it be located?

 

/bow tink. I will check it out. Thanks again!

 

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>


Tink knows tons of carb info and is a great contributor here, but he's thinking of gen 2 bikes when he mentions tabs on the pilot screws.

On gen 4 bikes the screw is beyond the capability of amateurs to easily fool with. Inset inside a cover that solidly limits access, the screws need a special D-shaped socket to turn them.

The special adjusting tool is available from Motion Pro and is included in the Dynojet kit for that model.

 

Do not hesitate to pluck the carbs off, gen 4 is by far the easiest to remove and install the carbs on. The horror stories of getting them back on do not apply.

 

NO, bruv, it's cool . thank YOU !!!
cuz i didn't know that 3rd gen FACT of Technical Information you provided to add to my growing collection of interesting facts about both VFRs and..................yeah, squirrels !!

Yeah, i made a mistake too by assuming that 3rd and 4th are the same, but now i know the TRUTH of this sordid fact.

 

squirrelman used the word "sordid"....heh heh heh

 

I just hand fed a squirrel a wasabe almond. It seemed to like it, came back for a second one. lol - One would think that the (fuel mixture screws, needle jets) what ever you wana call them would be similar to the gen 3 bikes. In the manual they want the mechanic to apply loc-tite once they are set. Mine on the other hand turn all the way in as well as being able to turn them all the way out. I have taken them out while they were in situ on the bike with good results. Dont use the choke when the bike is warmed up, crack the throttle a CH (cunts hair) and simultaniously thumb the starter button. If my bike sat for 8 hours and I come out to it I sometimes give it a little choke with some throttle. Seems to work for me.