Anyone have pics of the '86 airbox snorkel?

My bike doesn't have one, just the rectangular opening into the airbox itself. Does anyone have pics of the snorkel itself? I'm curious how it routes air from outside the frame into the airbox.

Thanks much.

 

Sorry no pics, but it's about 90 degree bend and looks to pickup air from behind the radiator.

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The "carburator heat guard" (see the frame section) blocks the post-radiator air from going up into the airbox. Things seem pretty well sealed across the bottom of the frame's spars and the angled braces from the bottom of the steering head.

I was wondering if the 90-degree snorkel had anything else attached, or it's just like it looks in the pics?

 

I forgot to mention the heat guard. I didn't mean to make it sound like it suck hot radiator air. I think I have a spare snorkel if you need it.

 

I'll have to pop the tank off and take another look at the area. I'm thinking about the airflow into the engine, and all the reports about how changing things just makes it all run worse.

I'm thinking that it's probably the turbulence of the flow that screws things up. low and mid-range are the reported sufferers, which want nice smooth flow, as the rates haven't gotten up as high as they need to when trying to feed a 700-750cc engine at over 10,000 rpm.

From some napkin math and engine thermodynamic equations, it looks like the VFR needs to be ingesting about 50,000-60,000 cc of air a second to make it's peak HP numbers. The 34mm carbs each have a 9cm^2 area, so the speed through the carbs is over 1500 cm/s (35mph). That's some pretty fast air flow.

The air-speed through the inlet to snorkel (which is what, 2" x 4"?) would be a bit slower, but still pretty high.

2x4" = 5x10cm = 50cm^2 for 1000 cm/s air speed (20-25mph)

That rectangular opening without any flow smoothing characteristics is going to flow a lot less (30% the size?) which puts the airspeed back up to ~35mph through the majority of the opening.

What I don't remember from the last time I had the tank off was how much air inlet space there was feeding the airbox area. There are the two triangular openings in the frame, and the gap between the frame and the tank, but I didn't see anything else (unless my bike's had something blocked off, but I doubt it).

I'm kicking around picking up some supplies and glassing up a snorkel that feeds from under the oil cooler to where the current snorkel meets the airbox... That could be an interesting wet-weather project (it rains for 3-4 months straight here...).

 

I agree with you about the air flow and how to make more power, I just never measured how much power. So I'll show you some pics and tell you my combo of mods and how it felt.

Here's the heat shield with modified air box, I know it's been done before this is how I did it.


This is a home made filter I made to replace the stock filter. This is before the K&N -filter was available. I rejetted the carbs with a stage 1 K&N Kit # 81-9075. And I Have Kerker slip-ons in place of the stock mufflers.

All I know is it worked... and it felt great across the power band with stock gearing.

 

Interesting. So you opened up the inlet where the snorkel fits, and then also added a bunch of holes across the back of the airbox, as well?

 

First I'd like to say again your have the right idea about straight air (less turbulent) and less restriction being key. I kept the inlet hole the stock size (bigger because the snorkel was removed) then add the screen to help make the air less turbulent and add some resistance to the air entering the air box. I drilled by hand almost symmetrical holes on the top to create less restricted straight air to enter the filter from top if needed for wide open throttle high rpm runs. Then made the least restrictive filter I could at the time without sacrificing the filtering job.

 

I took mine off about 10 years ago and can’t find it…here’s the next best thing.