2000 VFR800fi Y fuel pump not priming!

Hi Guys,

I’ve got a problem with my 2000 VFR800 Fi Y (with HISS). I started the bike in my garage one day without riding it and turned it off again. The next morning I pushed it of the garage to go for a ride and although the engine turned, it would not start.

The symptoms are as follows: the fi light stays on and the fuel pump does not prime, but the engine does turn. I have checked the following: Battery; fuses; fuel pump; fuel pump relay and banking sensor. All of the above seems fine. There is no error code when I bridge the service connecter either. The fi light just stays on and the engine won’t start. I am not close to a dealer with a workshop and it would take some effort to take it to one, I was hoping that someone might point me towards something else that I can check?

 

Welcome aboard.

Silly question: Have you checked the kill switch? That little thing has stumped me more than once.

 

Obviously if the engine turns then the kill switch is NOT the cause. How exactly did you check the fuel pump? Are you getting spark to the plugs?

Rollin

 

I have checked the kill switch, the thing is: the kill switch should also prevent the engine from turning. With the kill switch activated the 'fi' light is off. When the kill switch is deactivated I can hear the engine stop relay click, but not the fuel pump relay. I have replaced the fuel pump relay and I have swopped it out with one that I know is wokring, but i found nothing.

 

I have checked the fuel pump by bridging the fuel pump relay connector. I find 12+ volts on the fuel pump connection (popsitive and negative) wires, but I should see a current over the 'switching' connection at the relay connector for a few second after turning the ignition on, but there is nothing there.

 

Just checked what the FI lights means when it stays on and doesn't blink.

- Open or short circuit at the input power line of the PGM-FI/GN unit
- Faulty engine stop relay
- Faulty engine stop switch
- Faulty ignition switch
- Faulty bank angle sensor
- Faulty PGM-FI/GN unit
- Blown main fuse B (30Amp)
- Blown engine stop fuse (10Amp)
- Blown fule pump fuse (30Amp)
- Open circuit in engine stop switch ground wire

All these problems will cause the engine not to start.

Try to check these things first.

 

Thanks guys I have checked most of these items, I just dont know how to check my ECM and the bike is still dead by the way. Sorry I took so long so long to reply, work does not always allow the time for it. I am back with a vangange to try and solve this issue though, so any help will be appreachiated.

 

Sounds like a short in the wiring/corrosion in a fuse or similar? Trace the wiring from the ecm for breaks. Id start with that?

 

Hi, i had a similar problem with my fi-x and it turned out to be very simply a corroded spade connection at the fuel pump itself.
After spending hours checking everything listed above i tried shorting the fuel pump direct to the battery and found it worked fine, after checking the connections i finally located the source! (and felt bloody silly i hadn't thought to do this first ) Thankfully i had also had the bike looked at by the recovery mechanic who also missed the problem so i felt a little better about missing it.
I open it up and ran some emery paper over both ends of the connector, reconnected it and hey presto - problem fixed.
I hope this helps and your problem is as simple to fix

 

Thank you very much for all the help. It could be a very small wiring issue and I hoping to pick up the problem today when I take it to the local Honda dealer for a diagnostic check.

As far as the fuel pump is concerned, if I bridge the terminals of the fuel pump relay the pump runs fine, that should indicate that the connection to the fuel pump is fine. But I will still mention that to the tecnician.

I will keep everyone posted on the diagnostic results! Hold thumbs it is something small...

 

I have found the problem and the bike is up and running again.

It was the DAMN HISS!!!

My key lost it's coding, the Honda dealer asked about $1700 to replace the ECU and supply two coded keys. This was because I did not have a spare key with the correct code on it.

I found a guy who did the coding for a quarter of that price and he also replaced a faulty diode in the ECU's powersupply (onboard the ECU). So if anyone has this issue try and swop out the ECU with anothe one (with HISS) and hold the key fob next to the ignition while starting the bike with the old key, if this works your old key or ECU is at fault!