Odd Clunking Noise From... Somewhere..

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by V4Jeff, Sep 1, 2010.

  1. V4Jeff

    V4Jeff New Member

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    Went for a few rides the past couple days and my bike has developed this clunking noise when going through the RPMS in EVERY gear. Ill start from a stop, hear it around 3000 RPM, then 4500 RPM, then 6000 RPM, in first second third and probably the higher gears but the wind/exhaust noise makes it hard to tell. Whenever it clunks, I can feel it in my left peg. Anyone have any ideas on what it may be? 86 VFR700F

    Thanks - Jeff
     


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  2. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    Inspect the chain, sprockets , cush drive and rear wheel bearings. Rear wheel bearings would be high on the list of things to check but look it all over closely for safety reasons, it is no spring chicken so anything is possible.
     


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  3. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    :funky: right on
     


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  4. V4Jeff

    V4Jeff New Member

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    Already checked chain, sprockets for unusual wear, rear sprocket is brand new so no issues there. Had the cush drive out about 2000 miles ago and it was perfect when I saw it. Bike has 52k on it now. Ill pull the rear wheel and check the bearings then.

    Question: In regards to the chain, it has surface rust on the outer linkages, but interior ones seem to be perfect, chain is 2-finger taught and not too loose. Whats the general rule of thumb for when its time to replace the chain?
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2010


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  5. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    If well cared for it will last the life of the sprockets in most cases. Most of the guys I ride with have a terrible chain lube allergy and tight spots, kinks and noise are the norm for worn oot.
     


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  6. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    adjust the chain when its cold to the tightest spot on the chain. Easier said than explaining. You have to rotate the back tyre while your free hand is testing the slack in the chain. Once you have established the tight spot adjust the chain accordingly. Not too tight 1.5 slack mid way from counter sprocket to rear one. And watch your fingers. Cheers.
     


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  7. Lgn001

    Lgn001 Member

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    Also check the splines on the countershaft and countershaft sprocket for a sloppy fit.
     


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  8. Dukiedook

    Dukiedook New Member

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    Old chain and new sprocket could be giving that new sprocket fits.
     


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  9. jporter12

    jporter12 New Member

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    Ridervfr has it right on for the chain adjustment. With that said, you know the chain is shot when it gets to the point of having to be adjusted very frequently, such as 500 to 1000 miles. I don't pay much attention to the outer surface. As long as it doesn't have any tight spots (catches), the o-rings are pliable, and the rollers are clean, and it holds adjustment, you're good to go. If it looks good, that's just bonus points for it.
     


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  10. V4Jeff

    V4Jeff New Member

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    Ok. I'm gonna pull the wheel, check the bearings, and tighten up the chain and see if that clears the problem. Now when I'm tightening up the chain while its cold, Im gonna check the slack while spinning the rear tire with the wheel off the ground, but my common sense would tell me that once I find the "loosest" part of the chain, checking the slack midway between rear sprocket and counter sprocket, or when I find the arrangement that has the most slack, is that when I would tighten up my tensioners? Or should I spin the tire and when I find the least slack, tighten it?
     


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  11. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Listen carefully Jeff, men have died for this information. Sorry, I like being melodramatic. Ha ha...Anywho-You get the tightest part of the chain and you adjust according to that spot. Plain and simple. I don't adjust my chains that often really...thinking, actually cant remember the last time. As long as you cant pull the chain off the rear sprocket more than a quarter or so you should be good to go. Just keep it well oiled/greased, wont go into chain lube theory 101. So go out and ride that chit mon, cheers.
     


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  12. V4Jeff

    V4Jeff New Member

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    Lol thanks.
     


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  13. Dukiedook

    Dukiedook New Member

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    I check my chain tension/deflection when I am sitting on the bike, that will give you a true feel for the proper amount of deflection/tension in the chain under a weight load. If any of your links are tight/have kinks it is probably time for a new chain. That is one part you do not want to skimp on or gamble with, the consequences of failure with that part are too high.
     


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  14. V4Jeff

    V4Jeff New Member

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    Dukie, What are you feeling for when you;re sitting on the bike and checking for the deflection/tension? Should I roll it slowly and feel for catching or tougher parts, and that would be an indication of binding, blown o-rings, or tightness in a bad chain? Sorry I just dont understand how you guys are checking this, its probably really easy and Ill feel stupid for asking once I get an answer, but at least I wont break a chain mid twisty and.. yeah we dont need to talk about what happens after that.
     


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  15. Dukiedook

    Dukiedook New Member

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    I check it with my hand while I am sitting on the bike, be careful with your balance when you do this, it is very easy to have your bike fall over with you on it (Or have someone else check the chain deflection while you sit on it). I pull and push the chain midway between the rear and front sprocket up and down and check to see that the vertical deflection of the chain isn't greater than 0.75" or 0.5". The bike never physically moves when i check this.


    If your chain is binding or kinking at all when you spin it on the center stand or with the rear wheel in the air you need a new chain, period.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2010


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