'86 VF500 -- Get it Running Again!

+1 on the carb boots. I just bought some new ones and they are SOOOO much softer!

Look at Jamie's website. He has a section on carb installation.

I have had success doing front first, a bit of lube on the rear boots, significant and repeated alignment adjustments while applying full body-weight force on the plate (and a lot of sweat and swearing). It usually only takes 5 minutes of so to get it right. I also put a rag on the plate and gloves on because it was killing my hands.

 

Getting the carbs back on isn't the most pleasant thing in the world, but if you use this procedure it shouldn't be too bad:

Daugherty Motorsports - V4 Honda Carb Removal and Installation Procedure

Good luck!

 

I got the carbs in. Cables are all hooked up, just need to adjust the throttle and choke cables. I ended up using a ladder straddling the bike so I could use my whole body weight, and with some carefully applied pressure (as to keep the bike on the centerstand) it went right on.

Any suggestions for when I go to start it? I have a 'fuel tank' set up so I can work on it without having the tank back yet. I assume it'll need to crank a few times (manual says only crank for 5 sec at a time, waiting 10 in-between tries) before fuel gets down in to the system, and that the idle speed will definately need adjusting right off the bat.

 

How much trouble am I in?

I was checking everything out getting ready to try to crank the bike, getting ready to bleed some clutch fluid to verify I was OK there... the master cylinder resivoir was bone dry, the zerk fitting was REALLY difficult to get off, the master cylinder isn't passing fluid thru it, and it was bone dry and gunked up behind the slave cylinder.

What's the best place online for me to get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder (clutch)?
This is the best I've found:
http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Honda-Clutch-Rebuild-Kit?sc=12&category=52632

 

I'd recommend OEM over aftermarket. Honda part number 22886-MB0-305 ('84-'86).

 

I'll need a new zerk/bleeder fitting too... I'm not sure about the slave cylinder either... I'm thinking that may need a rebuild too.

 

Sounds like the bike had a less than kind previous owner, in terms of maintenance...

 

It did sit for over a decade... and I did get it for free. Is the inside of that space supposed to be full of fluid? Do I need to open it up and clean it out? I can't seem to find the exploded diagram of the slave... It's not on the clutch, trans or master cylinder sheets.

 

From the Factory Service Manual (this is a must have for any VF500F owner's bookshelf - there is one on eBay right now - you'll want to find one in the orig. binder as the printing quality is higher compared to the reissue).

 

Is the space behind the slave cylinder supposed to be full of the DOT fluid, or is it oiled as part of the crank-case?

 

Help!

Ok, got the master cylinder rebuilt, and I took apart, cleaned and reinstalled the slave cylinder. I also cleaned out the lines, verified they're in good shape.

I'm trying to bleed the new fluid through the system, but it won't feed through the master cylinder! I musta squoze that damn handle a couple of hundred times, and after the first few dozen squeezes there were no bubbles in the reservoir or change in the fluid level.

Help?

I am 99.9% sure that I reassembled the master right.

 

Are you using a Mityvac? It's really a must have tool, IMO.

MV8020

 

Yeah, that's normal. You'll need a LOT more than a couple dozen pumps. Sometimes it takes a good 10-15 minutes of constant pumping to get the unit to start actuating. The Mityvac is a great way to eliminate that effort. If you are too cheap for that, and have more time than money, sitting there pumping the lever is the way to go.

 

A friend suggested a turkey basting syringe, and forcing the fluid up the line... I grabbed one at a dollar store, and that worked GREAT...I sealed the hose from the baster to the bleed valve with some clear adhesive silicone, let it dry well as to not get sucked in to the system (used a very small amount, and closed the valve while refilling the basting syringe.

How much is a mityvac?

Oh, and PS- IT RAN!!! IT RAN!!! So some tuning, new tires, and license plates and I'll be good to go

 

Ok... well my absence can be explained by the part where the bike is running beautifully and I'm loving riding it. The tank took 2 treatments of whatever the shop was using, but the fuel coming out doesn't seem to be carrying any sh*t (i check the filter before every fill). They tuned it well, and after giving it a coolant swap, the only thing I have left to work on for this riding season is a new horn (old one stopped working last weekend?!

This winter I'll be needing to do the front fork/suspension because it's crazy soft.

 

Congratz!

When I did the front forks on my VF500 it was a vast improvement.

Pending everything in them are in good shape and not too worn, you just have to freshen up some seals and add some heavier weight Fork oil.

I used 10wt iirc

 

Well I see now that I can test the horn when I remove it at home... but I'm thinking the $60 upgrade to a loud @$$ PIAA might be worth the investment.