A different clutch issue.

I searched to no avail.

2001

The bike has about 25k on it. First off, the clutch works. It just seems to lose pressure when used in traffic. Normal riding and I don't have any issues. It seems the clutch has different points of engagement. When I am riding normally, it begins to engage about halfway. Once in traffic or in a frequent shifting scenario, the engagement point is in the first 1/8th of the lever's movement. Once I'm underway, it's right back @ about the half mark.


I replaced the fluid in the master cylinder and vacuum bled til I was certain it was bubble free. I also lubed the pivot points and in my visual inspection, nothing seems to be awry.

Any tips, tricks, or things to look at would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Sounds like you still have some air in there. I would tap the master cylinder with the back of a screwdriver and try conventional bleeding. Air might be in a spot that the piston needs to push it out. Also don't squeeze the lever to rapidly that will emulsify the air and brake fluid. If you are confidant that there is no air your master or slave cylinder is the problem. Good Luck!

 

Also, turn the clutch lever over, there is a brass bushing that is circular in shape. If it is mis-shapen, it can cause problems too. It's always overlooked, and very affordable.
http://www.actionps.com/fiche_section_detail.asp Part #2

 

I took the perch assembly apart and the only thing I can see is a bit of wear on the inside piston. (the part the metal post inserts into on the master cylinder opposite the lever side)

There is a rubber boot on the piston that is torn. Not sure if that plays into it. The copper bushing (#2 in the aforementioned post) is not deformed as far as I can tell. It is able to be spun freely in the handle but not in a loose manner.

Everything looked pretty clean. Not sure about the trapped air bubbles though. I used a vacuum bleeder and was getting clean fluid.

 

Try a conventional bleed and crack the banjo bolts on the master cylinder and the slave as air can get trapped in them even with a vacuum bleeder. Then top up the reservoir and give it one last vacuum bleed. It has to be an air issue so give it a shot and let us know what happens.

 

I'll give it a shot.

 

+1 on air. Diff temps from riding conditions will change the size of the bubble and cause your symptoms.
Simplest explanation is usually the right one!

 

I messed around with it...the shop messed around with it...still does it! I'm going to find some parts on ebay and swap them out.