where is the "alternator stator 3-pin electrical connector containing 3 yellow wires"

i wish this thing had a picture

 

95 vfr750f

 

guess my first question is does the stator go directly into the RR.

battery isent charging, so i figure either stator or RR. so i figure ill test the stator first if i can figure out which wire it is.

 

as always, Tink is right. its connected from the stator, to a three pin connector, then from that connector to the R.R. I personally found this wire to be too small, so i just ordered me up a VFRness and a new stator. Can't wait to get it here and installed.

 

ok, i believe that i found the plug. on setting rx1 there was infinate connectivitity from each wire to each other wire. and on the same setting there was 0 connectivitity from each wire to ground.

this would indicate that the stator is good and my problem is with the r.r.?

 

again, if i didnt mention above. battery goes dead after around an hour.

 

well. from what the book says i think the tator is good. my stator seems to be working also. but there is still one question.

the ohm readings seem just fine, but when i start the bike and test the wires to ground there is 0 voltage. is this normal (ac voltage to dc ground = 0)

each wire to each wire had full contunitity, each wire to ground had 0 contunitity. from the way i understand the book it seems to have tested good.

i cannot test my rr untill i get a better digital meter

 

Hahaha! We need a like button for some of these post responses.

 

well. i checked the rr with a digital meeter. the 3 leads from the stator ohm tested fine. the other 2 contacts when hooked up the way the book says have 0 continuitity. if i revers the contacts its in spec, but obviously being reversed isent correct. so if this test is corect then i have a bad rr.

im going to keep the meeter for a day and see what other tests i can do to be sure its the rr before i make the rr purchase.

what do you think?

 

pull the RR .replace it.get a new one and get on with the riding



amd Lazy we used to have something like that If I remember correctly

 

are you testing the stator or the regulator/rectifier?

If your testing the rectifier then you'll need to do that on low DC voltage with the r/r disconnected from power in the Diode test mode. There are two readings you'll get from each diode and 12 tests altogether. Three yellow wires tested one direction to ground will give you an open line (OL), reverse the leads and you'll get a reading in the area of .562 VDC depending on the spec.

On the OTHER side of those same yellow wires (other side of the connector) you'll get reverse readings, but if you try and read those diodes with the leads in the same direction as the previous six tests you'll get bad readings. The 6 diodes in a rectifier, if you look at the schematic, are opposed to each other in sets of 3 to regulate the circuit. When you said that you got bad readings and the reversed the leads they were good, I'm assuming that this is the type of test your doing.

A Stator test is testing the conductivity of the wire and insuring that the ground hasn't shorted itself internally.

Check that all of your connectors are intact and that you don't have any loose wires in each connectors. These babies tend to fall apart after 10 years or so and a loose wire anywhere in the system can prevent the battery from receiving a charge.

If your wires check out, and your getting 'normal' readings from the diodes, check the voltage coming out of the regulator side. If your getting 13-14 VDC out of the regulator and it's making it to the battery then replace the battery.

Electrical systems are VERY particular and without being there 1st hand to see it and test it then I'm just crap shooting and guessing. There are tests for every part of the system, but without knowing the proper place to put the leads and what settings to be on (the book isn't always perfect) then you may get false readings even though the part your testing is working properly.

Be sure of your results before you spend your money on something you don't need!

 

i did one final check now that i have a dependable meeter.

solid 14 voltes ac going into the rr at the rr plug, grounding each of the 3 wires to eachother. 14v on each wire.

14ish voltes dc comming from pin of hte rr, and 0 from the other. its definatly the rr.

thansk everyone for helping. and thanks to hamilton for lending me his meeter.