advise or help from a wiring god or a genius would be great.....PLEASE i want to ride

ok so here's my problem about a month ago i painted my bike 93 vfr 750 the day i painted it, it worked fine it fired ran everything. i came back to put it back together the end of that week nothing no power past the starter relay i replaced the relay and the plug which was burnt a bit.....now i have power from the relay and at the key switch but i still have no power at the start button no gauges or lights i can cross the wire on the relay and it will kick lights come on and all but just using the key switch nothing ..... so i need some help advise someone to look at it something..... its almost end of summer and i want to ride bad so any help is greatly appreciated

 

Look for loose grounds, frayed connections.
You'll need a schematic diagram and start from the battery and make sure you have continuity to all connections.
Work all the way down, and check fuses on the panel and solenoid.

 

got schematic checked fuses got new solenoid (2 of em actually) and new main fuse

 

Is the clock still working? I would check the ignition connector and wiring. Which relay did you jump to get the lights on?

:crazy:

 

You took some parts off the bike apart to paint them. Some of those parts must have had electrical connections. Now you just need to think back about which parts you took apart and one of those parts (Plug in connections), that got pulled on or pushed on, is not connected properly or pushed together all the way.

Do not start taking apart things that had NOTHING to do with the paint job and the removal of those parts.

Remember that a VISUAL inspection IS a first and important step in any wiring problem.

 

mine does not have a clock so in a sense no its not but the plug for it has juice as far as the relay the stater relay with the 30A main fuse battery wire and starter wire well the thing of that is when i got mine it didnt have anything on it no bodywork at all the guy ditched it running from the cops twisted the main stay and everything so it has a whole new front end, forks, triple, (all from a 93 so no mismatched stuff there) so in doing that the harness connections all got unhooked and reconnected it ran and everything i rode it to be sure it would all work and to give it a shake down before paint everything worked fine no problems. after paint it wouldnt

 

That's too bad about the clock being optional on the gen3. It really helps with troubleshooting, as it is the only thing that gets power with the switch off.

Basically the power goes from the battery, "thru"(not across) the starter relay and 30A main fuse to the ignition switch. This should power the lights, meters and horn etc when the key is turned and the cct is closed. So basically, if the battery and it's connections are good and you have 12V at both sides of the main fuse, but nothing is working, The red wire from the fuse to the sw/ would be the first one to check. You have to get 12V at the ign sw/, or nothing will work. Make sure to do the continuity check on the sw/ itself, while your there.

:crazy:

 

checked all wires from relay to key switch its got juice going in and coming out also i checked all the wires at the connections under the windscreen/gauges they are good so now i have no idea

 

I am no guru of 3rd gens, but wiring I'm ok with. What specifically are you using to test for "juice". If you are using a standard test light or a multimeter they are VERY low draw circuits and CAN give you a false good reading. Meaning, they don't put substantial load on the circuit to ACTUALLY test them. If you can make up a test rig using just about any regular automotive light bulb (headlamp, turn signal, brake) this will put a more realistic load on the circuit you are testing and expose a broken wire or a barely there/crappy connection somewhere. I've boned myself and gotten throughly confused many times because of this little trick (or rather because I WASN'T using this little trick).

I'll try to post up some pics later of the specific test equipment I'm talking about later fer ya in case this is confusing.

 

pictures would be great in the meantime i will try to rig up something

 

If you have 12V after the ign sw/, then ensure you have the same at both ends of all the fuses in the fuse box. If this passes and you have the same problem, go with metallican's plan and use a headlight, if you can.

Have you tried jumping the starter relay? This will engage the starter, to verify that you have lots of power and a good battery connection. VERIFY THE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL!

 

Pics as requested. This is a "standard" test light that will still light up even if you don't have proper voltage, it will only not light if you have no voltage This is a Multimeter. GREAT tool, very usefull. The problem is if you still have just one strand of wire still connected, your resistance and voltage will still read normally because of the nominal ammount of voltage it uses to test. This is my high impedance test lamp rig that I made using a brake lamp socket and a dual filimant brake lamp bulb. I wired it to light up both filimaents when connected so that it provides a maximum load on the circuit and therefore a good test.

 

Karazy and Metallican have given all you need, good looking out , sounds like a bad connection from the key switch to the fuse block.

 

luckily for me i work at NAPA hahahaha

 

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Honda uses a circular brassy-looking terminal at the end of a large green wire as a wiring harness GROUND, and it's usually located on or just to the rear of the right fairing support bracket (upper) and attached by a 10mm bolt.

It would likely be disconnected when the fairings were removed.

 

problem with that is it didnt have any bodywork to begin with and it ran i rode it took about 2 months to get the fairings done mocked up everything as they were fiberglass cast from airtech which suck major ass btw but weve gone through everywire pratically from the battery up and cant find anything its like theres nothing wrong but there is....the gauges wont light up or start.....i cant figure it out for the life of me im getting very aggravated with it and dont want to pay 70$/hr labor from the honda shop

 

Seems like a good idea to locate the terminal i described above and be certain it's attached to a chassis ground.

 

What wires are you crossing at the starter relay? So you have power going to the ignition switch at the red wire at the switch, correct? Do you have 12v at the ignition switch on the blue/orange and the red/black? Those feed the fuse box. The brown on the ignition switch goes to lights. That's with the ignition ON. If you have no power coming out then it's the switch.

IF you only get power at the ignition (in and out) when you cross the wire on the starter relay, then the starter relay is bad. OR there's a problem with the plug you replaced. May be wire got crossed or they are not making contact. Should have power there, all wires, with the key on. Even though you got a new one doesn't mean it's good. Just follow the wire diagram from the starter relay on all wires coming out. Then follow those wires all the way to the end component. Some will travel thru various switches and relays. You can then check for 12v before and after a component.

 

i was crossing the the 4 gauge cables the battery and starter motor. yes i ahve power on the red wire blue orange going in and out and at the fuse box in and out and red /black's the same on the key switch theres no brown wire 2 red and blue

 

You say you have power in/out at the fuse box and ignition. Is that with or without jumping the starter switch? Not sure what's supposed to come on when key is turned on if you have a malfunctioning side stand switch. Have you checked those connections at the side stand?