Master links

Sounds like I will keep with my budget and run the Master Link.
Thank you all for the inputs.

 

There's nothing wrong with master links. You'll be fine if you use the master link that comes with your chain and install it properly. When I've seen problems with chains it's been mainly 'cause they were used long after they should have been replaced, or somebody figured it'd be a good idea to take links out of a chain that was totally shot, THEN put the wrong master link in to join it.

Regarding O-ring VS. standard chain...I think the O-ring chains last longer, are quieter and this is the only way to go if you're gonna put alot of miles on. That being said, there's nothing wrong with standard chains. It's just that you're gonna be adjusting it and replacing it and the sprockets more often. When I was more involved in road racing several years ago, most of the guys I helped used standard chains 'cause they thought there was less resistance to turn the rear wheel than with O-ring type chains.

 

Near as I can tell I have more years riding than anyone else on this thread: about 47 of them. I have had properly installed master links come off. One time the chain just spit itself out the back, no problems. The other time it balled up inside the countershaft sprocket cover. That one cost, in both time and money. My thought is why take the chance. Regardless of what some people have said the chain doesn't cost more if it uses a clip type or a swaged type masterlink. Yes,the tool cost a couple of bucks, but you can do it on the cheap with a ball peen hammer. Clip type master links can come off, that's the truth. Look at your engine and imagine a chain wound up around that countershaft sprocket, then imagine what it will cost to fix it, your choice. The chances are low that you'll encounter any probs with a clip type, but why the heck take the chance if it's easily avoided. Look at it as cheap insurance.

 

Yes...I agreem, have done it both ways. Either way will work.
Master link OR peened regular link ground down just a little.

 

Rivited masterlink on a quality O-ring chain costs more but lasts about 3X longer than standard chain and doesn't need constant adjustment.


V- motors may stress chains more than others ???????

I used a standard non o-ring chain ONCE on my NT 650 Hawk, and it needed constant re-tightening, so i guessed alot of mechanical wear was going on. Needed replacement at less than 5000 miles.

Probably the bottom of the market now is Chinese stuff made to sell cheap. Will it hold up ?? You tell me, cuz i'll usually go the better quality way and insist on "Made in Japan" for now.



.......................

OMG !!!!! Branscombe's been riding TWICE as long as i have !



<<<<<>>>>>

O

 

The only way a non O-ring chain can compare to an O-ring chain is if it is running in an oil bath or enclosure. Not too many of those around anymore. I haven't used anything but O-ring chains in decades. Used to be if you could get 10,000 miles out of a regular chain you had to be fanatical about lubing and cleaning. And that is with a 40-50 horsepower engine.

 

ha hahahaha that is all I run is a non oring chain- with a clip style master link.... guys you could buy that top of the line chain and F it all up with that fancy tool to press the master ( that most likely breaks the tool on the first time )
like they all said this thread will go on and on and on.

I use a TSUBAKI 530 QR Pro Gold Chain for 40 bucks ( print out the page from cycle gear and bring to local shop, they hate selling a 130.00 chain for 40 but they have to ) , got 2 so when i take one off to clean it I slap the other one on. Do you really think that any of that fancy lube is getting past that O ring, that is designed to keep water and dirt out? O ring chains are for those who don't like to get a little dirty doing the cleaning.

there are many ways to keep the clip style master from comming off, as well as just checking it once and awhile.

note I have also wasted many top of the line O ring chains in well under milage posted above, it doen't hurt so much using a $ 40.00 chain and so far I have 5,200 on it so far.

 

gud way to keep the cir clip thing on is to saftey wire it. I dont cheap out on my chain and sprockets, and I got a killa EK Chain riviting tool that I could hand down in my will. Live to ride, Ride to Live

 

shaft drive VFR 1200 END OF STORY.
ha hahaha :vtr2:

 

If you're gonna use an O-ring type chain with a rivet type master link use the special tool to install the master or find someone that has one and knows how to use it. Staking the rivets with a ball peen hammer is not a good idea. There's no support for the pin and you're just as likely to break IT loose instead of 'peening' the end of the rivet. You can also 'mess' up with the tool if you press the sideplate on too far. It'll create a tight spot.

 

Links stretch clips don't.

 

Yeah, they don't stretch, they break.