87 VFR...handlebar risers and fork removal questions.

Rather than post 2 questions, I thought I'd kill 2 birds with one stone by posting both in one thread.

First off, I'm planning to put some handlebar risers on my 87 VFR. More than likely go with Genmar. Any issues with using the stock length cables and wiring?

2nd. I need to install some new fork seals. Any special tools I'll need? Just need the oil and dust seals along with new fork oil to do the job, or do I need other components? How have some of you supported the front of the bike while you took the forks off?

 

Depends on how much you raise your bars, you might have to get some longer cables. Try your stock cables with the risers and see if it binds.

I haven't done it on my 86 yet but on my CB I needed a pair of circlip pliers and a PVC pipe to use as a seal driver, you can buy a metal driver but it will cost about $40 and a PVC pipe works fine as long as you are careful.
You might want to get some new springs for your front, odds are the current ones on your bike are tired.

 

19mm is the maximum you can go with the stock length cables & wires. You can raise them for free,just by moving stock handle bars up the forks by approx 10mm, they will be at the top of the stanchions & you will have to remove the circlips at the tops of each stanchion. Also you will need to replace the existing bolts on the base of each handlebar(clipons), with longer ones. Easy job. & it makes a very good improvement.

Will photo mine for you tomorrow and post here.

 

For tools you'll need a long-ish allen wrench, preferably an allen socket that will fit on the end of an air driven impact. It the forks were last put together with threadlock then you'll definitely need the impact. Don't forget fork oil. Something to drive the bushings and seals in will help. I use PVC pipe of the correct diameter for the fork tubes. Cut one short, about 2" long and this piece will sit on the bushing or seal that you are installing. The longer piece will be used to drive the bushings and seals in, like a slide hammer. Drive the bushing in first with the washer on top. Then drive the seal in. Driving both in at the same time is hard on the seal. Also, use some type of lubricant (white lithium) on the inside of the seal before you install it. Be prepared to have to order a bushing kit if you don't know the condition of them. Do a good inspection once they are out. There should be no base metal showing and little wear on the teflon coating. 25k miles is about the limit for bushings unless you're religious about changing oil. Good luck.

I use a front Pitbull stand, but you can put the bike on the center stand and use a floor jack & a 2x4 to raise the front of the bike. Just barely touch the rear wheel to the ground and there should be more than enough room to get the forks off.

 

Thanks Tedric, that would be great!

I've started looking at the process of taking the forks apart. I'm seeing a few o-ring seals in there, 1 at the anti-dive case and at the top of the forks near the fork cap. Did any of you folks replace these along with just the standard oil and dust seals?

My bike doesn't have a center stand. Thought about picking one up. I have a front Pit Bull stand...just haven't researched far enough to see if there is a pin available for my VFR. I already have 3 pins, maybe one will work for me.

 

Currently swapping out the triple clamps,replacing oil seals,and installing Matris Racing fork cartridges on my RC51. This is how I support the bike while I'm working VFRF2. I use Lockhart Phillips bike stands. They're probably the two most valuable tools in my whole garage.
Whenever you use a front stand to lift the front end of the bike you MUST ALWAYS use either a rear stand or the centerstand to stabilize and support the rear end of the bike too. Front bike stands were NEVER designed to support and stabilize the bike all by themselves. They were designed to work in conjunction with rear stands,however the centerstand will do in a pinch. If you lift only the front end of the bike with a front stand,the back end of the bike can still pivot at the steering head and it will fall right off the stand. I've seen it happen. Don't take that chance with your pride and joy VFRF2.
When lifting the bike lift the back end of the bike first,then the front. When lowering the bike lower the front end of the bike first,then the back.
As for the alignment pin for the front stand,use the pin closest to the size of the hole in the steering stem at the bottom of the lower triple clamp. It doesn't have to be an exact fit,in fact you want it to be just a bit sloppy,that way it won't get stuck in the steering stem when you remove the front stand.


Just a couple tips VFRF2. Put a soft cloth towel over your front fender before you install your front stand,that way you won't scratch the fender when you install and remove the stand. And pick up a thick plastic washer at the hardware store to fit underneath the alignment pin on the front stand. With the plastic washer installed you won't be scratching the underside of your lower triple clamp if you decide to pivot the forks side to side while you're working.

 

Thanks for the info. That's how I support my bikes too, very familiar with that configuration. I have a LP rear stand as well, I think I have the pin I need for the Pit Bull to lift the front of the VFR. Good to go on supporting it now.