Paint info

Waiting for parts, so I thought I would look into paint . Bike is a victim of a bad paint job. This will be work for winter, but might as well find right paint now. Bike is a 1985 VF1000F Interceptor (Canadian, if that makes a difference). I found 1 paint code on bike. NH138 color, NH138K code which I believe is Shasta white. As you see in pics (I used photobucket, hope that works) There is a red (I'd call it a candy apple red variant), don't know if it's a factory color or not. Can anyone help me here? When I repaint it, I might stray from factory colors a bit. Ford has a beautiful pearl white they use on their new F-150's, and I painted an old yamaha I had Lincoln Wild Strawberry (mid 90's) that is a very nice color. The blue,I will find a nice shade, unless I can find the factory color code. I'm no stranger to a paint gun, so I want to do it myself. I know a lot of people say don't stray from stock paint schemes, it kills the resale, but I have to use what I can get my hands on.

http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt167/grilldemon/Picture023.jpg
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt167/grilldemon/Picture005-3.jpg

Any ideas?

 

Look in the parts fische, you will find the real colors there that you can match.

Colorrite can match the old paint but it is not for the cheap of heart.

 

You might take a look at cbdecals.com. They make what appears to be an exact replica of the original graphics, including all the warning decals. The blue stripe is a decal, and the thin white stripe between the red and blue is part of the decal. Something to consider if you are changing the shade of white. I have no experience with this company, b?ut if I ever repaint my 85 VF500F, I may order a set of graphics.
Can you offer any advise to someone who has never painted before? (besides let someone else do it)

Jeff

 

Color Codes
Red - Honda - R-134 -Fighting red - Sherwin Williams #76741 this should be correct for '85 1000
White - NH-138 -Shasta white - still in use for automobiles
Blue - PB-127C-U - Candy Aleutian blue -Sherwin Williams couldn't find this one but it sounds like GM Arrival Blue is a close match - not sure if this is the same, there was only one choice of tanks, and it was red so there wasnt a paint code on the parts fishe
heres a link to honda paint codes someone posted a while back
Honda Paint Codes

 

Buy twice as much paint as you need and practice on a flat metal surface first. The key is setting up the gun with the right volume/pressure/material flow. you can find lots of good info on youtube for spaying techniques but there is no substitute for experience. Bottom line is it is more than likely going to cost you the same to do it yourself because of the cost of wasted materials and time as it would to pay someone else to do it and you may not get the results that a pro could deliver. However I find a feeling in accomplishment in doing things myself and enjoy chalenging new projects. If you are the same way go for it and please document the project :thumbsup:

 

http://vfrworld.com/forums/1st-2nd-...nyone-have-close-match-auto-paint-87-rwb.html

 

if you are thinking about painting, please take a look at the attached to help avoid problems. What is really important is keeping all of your layers (primer, basecoat, top coat and clear) compatible. Mixing lacquers enamels and urethane is a no-no. I have had great success with color-rite, but it is very expensive. Recently used Rust-Oleum Plastic Primer from the auto parts store which claims to be compatible with everything with great results.

Take your time and follow the directions on the label to the letter. Let your layer set up totally (and add a 50% cure margin in cold/wet/humid environments) before moving on to the next layer. Whatever you do, dont rush the job and plan for at least a week (or 2) to do it right.

Download paintdefectguide.pdf from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way

 

Buy a book! Paint and paint chemistry changes faster than you might think. The big boys own most of the paintmaking facilities or own other companies who supply paints. Sherwin-Williams is the big kahuna. They are Krylon which includes Fusion (plastic primer) which is fine for most unpainted plastics including ABS and not so good for painting over well sanded and prepped old paint on the plastic. They are Martin-Senour that NAPA sells and a whole shitload of others.

Somebody suggested buying twice as much paint..LOL Not at some of the prices for reds for instance..

Somebody said not to mix lacquers and auto paints. While true that actually mixing the two as liquids is a no-no, clearcoating lacquer with a catalytic clear coat is common practice. Mixing two type of lacquers can be interesting an 8:2 ratio of acrylic to nitrocellulose will effect a finish similar to Polomyx. Easier to use Polomyx IMO.

Worrying about resale because of a dead on match is IMO waaay too anal on an old bike. It can be done only if the entire bike is painted. There ain't a red on the market that isn't fugitive.

Stock Paint is boring anyway.. Might as well have a chrome dipstick.

If the terms throw ya. See sentence #1.

 

The tank is ok Vfourever, but the rest is pretty shoddy. Someone repainted over the blue stripe and you can see the original color in spots. The white on the front fender and other parts is hideous. As for painting yourself, practice with a good quality rattle can on another inanimate object first. Once you get comfortable with a rattle can, you might want to buy a spray gun, if you have a big enough compressor. It all depends on what you want to paint too. A couple of brackets, foot pegs, etc, stick with a rattle can.You have to buy fairly larger quantities of paint for a spray gun too,which adds to the cost.The only drawback is limited colors in rattle cans. Some paint supply places can make you spray cans in custom colors. 3-4 light coats is better than a couple heavy coats. You avoid "hangers"(runs in the paint) this way. Do not recoat until paint has "flashed" (solvents in paint have evaporated)) Be in a well ventilated area, and wear a mask suitable for painting. The same techniques you use for a spray gun will work for a rattle can.