New Owner of 4th Gen VFR. Bike won't start up anymore. Help Appreciated!

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by moton00b, Apr 25, 2010.

  1. moton00b

    moton00b New Member

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    So I followed your test instructions Dizzy and did all those DCV readings right from the battery.

    With the bike off and key not turned, the battery read 12.2v ( Note the battery was slightly drained from prior days testing with the 'failed' R/R).

    With the key turned on it read 11.8v
    I then pressed the starter and when starting the bike it was reading 11.7-8v iirc.
    I got the bike started, and at idle it was 11.8-9v.
    After the bike warmed up a bit, i tested with revving it to 4-5k and it was only going up to about 12.6-12.8v.

    After doing these tests over maybe 10-15 mins I turned the bike off and noticed that the R/R unit was quite hot to the touch, perhaps an indication of partial failure. At this point I removed it, and put on the beefier finned R/R from electrosport. I then performed the same tests got much higher readings. At idle it was reading 12.8-13.0v, and when revving it was easily going up to 14.4v at 5k RPM. Looks like the issue is fixed?! Thanks for all the help, is there anything I'm missing here?

    I just hope there isn't another underlying issue that causes the R/R to fail, and the same thing happens to this one.
     


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    #21
  2. paul.miner

    paul.miner New Member

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    There are several factors that could have contributed to its failure. To start, the stock R/R is known to be weak. Second, electronics don't like excessive heat, so poor airflow can exacerbate the problem. If you look in some other R/R threads, you'll see that the wiring harness is another weak point (R/R connector, and stator connector under the right front fairing). A bad connection can hurt electronics if it starts arcing. If your connectors look good, you could clean them and pack them with dielectric grease to keep them corroding.
     


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    #22
  3. powderrecon

    powderrecon New Member

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    +28 on the R/R. However you should replace the battery also. On a fully charged good battery you should be able to putt around on that thing for an hour. 10 minutes sounds a little weak. Batteries can show good load when tested at a store, however still not be in proper working order. I have been through everything you are going through (twice), and its nice to have a fresh battery with fresh R/R. Then after everything is working nice, buy a spare R/R on ebay and keep it under your seat for those emergency type situations......I did and it got me out of the Rocky Mountains.

    PS - Where did you find a 4th gen with 6.5k on the clock. That thing is not even worn in yet! Nice find.
     


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    #23
  4. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    Excellent...sounds like ya fixed it. The hardest thing I know of on a charging system is running with a weak or otherwise strong but discharged battery. Keep your battery charged, don't use your bike as a charger. Make sure your battery terminals are tight and clean. Follow your ground wire from the battery and make sure it is tight and clean where it fastens to the frame or engine. Locate and do the same for any other ground junctions that bolt to frame or engine.
     


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    #24
  5. sruss67

    sruss67 New Member

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    Great to see you got it sorted, much joy is coming your way with riding this beauty :)
     


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    #25
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