What is missing from my VFR engine? *pics*

This would be referring to H.I.S.S. which is just what you say it is. All of us here in the US can't really tell ya how it could possibly be bypassed as we aren't special enough to get this. Only everyone else in the world can.. After 15 minutes of googling, there is little that can be found. Almost everyone is saying to source a US ignition barrel, ECU, and wiring harness as the cheapest method.

 

Thanks for the replies, I did come accross this site when searching about the immobiliser problem. HISS + Key : how to take it off ? : Honda CBR 600RR Sportbike Forum : 600RR.Net

Apparently theres a few techies that know a way round it but it is hush hush for the moment. When I get some progress made with the buggy and post it up im hoping someone will post me the info on the H.I.S.S bypass. I'd hope the pics prove im not a bike thief. Untill then if I see a USDM ECM, barrel and key at the right price i'll buy them.

 

thanks benny, i think thats as hard as im going to laugh tonight. and yes, just like every other engine built, the cylinders are in fact IN the block....

 

Thanks for the comments guys. I have made a start on the frame and have tracked down most of the bits for the engine. I am now just after some manifold pipes, and a connector form the loom that goes onto the coil pack

Here are some piccys....

















This is the connector im missing, I dont suppose anyone has one lying about?

 

FAILED!!! Cylinders are NOT missing.

 

That welding does not look good.
You should not be grinding a structural weld at all.
That MIG 100 does not look like it is getting penetration on that tubing.

I am a certified welder and a Certified welding inspector.
You may want to get some help on that welding.
What is the thickness of that tubing?
You are welding next to a vehicle that has gasoline in it.

As far as that barrel and key and H.I.S.S. just get rid of both of them.
They are a team and you don't need that team any more. See what I am saying?

 

From the other buggy builds ive read through they say to tack the welds at first and go over them in depth when the whole chassis is together, this stops the chassis twisting due to the heat (saying that maybe a 100amp welder cant do this?). So for now its kinda meant to be like that, I could probably destroy what ive done with a rubber hammer and 30seconds of my time lol What welder would you recommend? The wall thickness is 3mm and the box section is 30mm x 30mm. I took on this project as a learning curve so learning is what i'll do

 

If the tube thickness really is 3mm(.118) thousandths then you will need a 125 amp welding machine .
Since the rating of the machines is a little fuzzy you can weld a tubing joint on a scrap section and see if
the weld fully penetrates the tube on the inside.
Slightly bevel the ends of the tube before welding and that will help make the weld penetrate the joint.
You may have to get a 125 amp welder. Welding wire diameter and type is another whole discussion.
The wire supplied is probably just fine for that project.

Usually what ever is the given rating on the welding machine the actual amperage may be less after losses.
So if it says 100 amp it may be only 90 amp. But the proof is in the pudding.
Do a sample weld on a joint and look to see if the weld has fully penetrated the tube.
A visual inspection is the first level, and the most important of all inspections.

Finally after visually looking to see if the weld penetrated .Try to break the joint apart with a hammer
That will let you have an idea of its strength on this size weldment. Do not grind the finished weld.
If you beveled the tube ends then the weld bead will be barely above the surface.
Since the tube is relatively thin you may only have to bevel one of the tubes being connected to another tube, not both.

Good luck on your project. Be safe.