no fuel no spark fi light on

hi i have 2000 vfr and it wont start anymore i have checked all the switch relay wiring change ignition pulse generator check cam pulse checked injector and now i think my problem is the ecm the cost of a new ecm is 1100 bucks and i want to be sure before changing it any ideas?

 

Have you shorted the system check connector and read the code? It will tell you what is wrong or at least point you in the right direction.

 

i have jumped the service connector but nothing happen the fi light stay on . it begin like this i ve been on a trip last summer and my bike wont start when really hot 112 celsuis the fi light stay on until it cool down ,98 celsuis.so i have sprayed gum remover (co2 compressed its really cold)on every sensor 'on ecm,on switch etc trying to find the problem and nothing.then i take waterto finnish the job .the bike wont start anymore .is there splice connector wrapped in tape?do you have the location? i don t want to buy an ecm i refuse to believe it s the ecm

 

Here is a listing for a parts bike, hope it helps.

parts for a 98 vfr800fi

:smile:

 

thanks but i ve try a 98 ecm and it doesnt work the fuel pump does work but the injector stays open so it make a hydrolic locks on top of the fpour pistons

 

Have you double checked you battery? I’ve seen a weak battery turn the motor over fine but not let it fire.

Action

 

I have a 2k Yellow VFR and had/have the same issue. I tried to start the bike and the FI light stayed on and the bike did not start. I took the battery to have it charged and was told that the battery was bad. I replaced the battery and the bike started but the RPMs shot straight up to approx 4k. Once I put the bike in gear the RPMs go down. I used a DVM to check the regulator and it was bad and I replaced it with an OEM regulator. The bike was running hot also so I took it to the shop and was told the waterpump was bad - also had the ecm unit checked and it was good. The Honda dealership I took the bike to told me the waterpump was on backorder and I left the bike with them. After two weeks the shop called me back and told me the waterpump is not bad and they changed the thermostat and flushed the anti-freeze. I picked up the bike and it was still running hot. When the bike is hot and I try to start the bike the FI light stays on. After letting the bike cool the FI light will go out and the bike starts but will intermittently shoot up to 4k RPMs. Weird issue and I have been to a total of four Honda shops and no one can fix it but they all want to charge me labor fees. My plans are to trade the bike off and maybe get an 06/07 leftover. Bummer

 

MM1, you'll need to try a 2000-2001 ECU instead. I'm quite sure they made changes from 98-99 in the ECU since they added the catalytic converter and O2 sensors.... They probably did quite a bit else as well.

Emon, call Honda North America and explain your problem to them. They WILL make it right with you and work with you to get this straightened out. They love to get calls in this type of situation and I wouldn't be surprised if they send out a specialty tech or something similar for this. They will want to make sure that you get taken care of and your bike is back in working order.

 

take your seat off and you see a rubber flap infront of the battery, lift the rubber flap and clipped to the side of the plastic tray on the right you well see a relay, (next the the PCV valve) its got a rubber cover over it and 5 wires (4 terminal connectors), pull it out and check the wiring, these are known to corrode, i bet its that,

if your bike has HISS then using another ECM/ECU will not work as the key is coded so that will stop the spark, i doubt it will be the ECU anyway, your problem sounds like corrorsion in the wiring going to the fuel pump relay hense the light coming on and staying on and the symptoms are there of it starting to do it when the bike was warm, this is because the heat will increase the resistance in the wire and when it cools it will lower the resistance and the bike will start again.

take at look at this thread of what i found when i was checking mine

 

thank for the tip , there is no corrosion under these relay which is working fine . it s the fuel cut out relay that wont work .I have batery voltage on 3 wires two black and the br/bl which is feed buy the ecm.the other brown is going to the pump with no voltage. is it normal to have 12 volt going out of the ecm instead of the negative?i have two positive on the field, one from the ecm and the other from the stop engine relay. thank

 

this is what it says out of the manual for testing the fuel cut off relay on the 6th gen. testing procedure should be the same for the 5th gen, but i would bet that there are some wire color differences:

connect an ohmmeter to the bl/w and brown terminals then connect a 12v battery to the br/bl and bl/w terminals. there should only be continuity when the batter is connected. if there is no continuity when the batter is off, the relay needs replaced.

That said, its sounding like you have faulty sensor that needs replaced.

 

the relay is good, i have changed both , when i jump the ecm the fuel work

 

Start checking for a possible short then or faulty ground. ECU's rarely go bad unless they sustain physical damage. If all else fails, start checking ebay for used ECU's or calling some motorcycle salvage yards.

 

its not just a matter of replacing the ECU, its a full HISS system which will include the ECU, ignition barrel and key, these are very expensive brand new and are expensive from salvage yards, not sure about in US but in the UK they sell for upwards of £300, now thats alot of money to spend just incase its the ECU, can you not get it tested before parting with that type of money.

 

The use of the service connector doesn't always work as the information is sometimes lost, or not stored. If it is a temperature related issue, I would check the IAT sensor located in the bottom of the airbox. It is also possible to test the ecm, just follow the directions in the manual.

 

There is no HISS in the us.

 

i ve checked today the peak voltage of the ignition pulse gen which is 2.2v and the cam pulse sensor 0.8v just over the minimum voltage required and the resistance ofthe four injectors is 13.3 ohm which is ok in the service manual they says if any problem is detected in the ignition pulse or the cam senso or in an injctor the ecm will stop the engine everything seem to be fine any ideas?

 

i cannot reset the ecm to

 

i have try a new ecm today and still nothing no spark and no fuel .Is someone as a wiring diagram better than the honda service manual

 

Are you checking these values at the ecm or at the individual components ? I would suggest testing at ecm, to verify that there is not an issue in the wiring.