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Attempting the oil mod on 83 interceptor, looking for expertise!

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by scario26er, Dec 21, 2009.

  1. scario26er

    scario26er New Member

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    hey, I just ordered an oil adapter that I am going to mount on the bike. The adapter im getting is built with a in and out outlets, now im thinking of blocking off the in, Then splitting the out with a T or Y junction up to the heads. I am also thinking of changing the banjo bolts to actual fittings. I would like any ideas or insight on this, good or bad. Thanks again!
     


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  2. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    Jamie Daugherty here on the boards could give you pointers on this...

    You have to invoke his name Three times though to make him show up.
     


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  3. scario26er

    scario26er New Member

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    I sent him a PM concerning this already because I understand he used to sell a kit that I was talking to him about last year. I have heard that its not available anymore form anyone so its DIY time!
     


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  4. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    If he doesn't respond you may have to sacrifice a small animal to his good name.

    Larger than a Squirrel but no bigger than an adult goat.

    He will smell the creatures blood and misery and he will appear.
     


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  5. twowheelracer

    twowheelracer New Member

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    I did the drill & tap mod on my '83VFF I like the way it looks and i don't have the oil filter plate pushing the filter out to close to the header pipe.
     


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  6. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    The trick is that you need a restriction in the system somewhere. This can be done using the parts itself - the collective restriction of the hose and fittings can be enough. Depending on the size and design of the parts you use will determine if you need to fabricate a restriction. It's not a bolt-on-and-go thing for the DIY person.

    The key here is that the top end needs better oil flow, but nothing compared to what the bottom end needs. You need to ensure adequate flow without dropping the pressure at the crank. Be prepared for some trial and error to get this right.
     


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  7. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    Sounds complicated.
     


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  8. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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  9. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    It's not, really. Just time consuming.
     


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  10. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I'm confused.

    It's beyond the DIY guy, but it's not complicated, and no one wants to share their experiance on how do it properly... :rolleyes:
     


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  11. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    I must ask what the target pressure is for crank and cams. I would say that I would rather flatten cams all day rather than have a bearing failure at the crank. Bearing failure at the crank is far more common and serious than a cam failure IMO.
     


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  12. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    Just overfill the crankcase.

    That'll ensure strong oil pressure and adequate oil throughout the engine.

    :tongue:


    Disclaimer: I am not responsible for anyone that doesn't realize that the above mentioned "advice" is in actuality a joke.
     


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  13. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Agreed - I just replaced the damaged cam, the previous owner already replaced the other intake cam on the other side. I figured it made it 25k miles on the first set, it'd make it at least another 10-15k on the second. Besides, I'll be lucky if I own it that long.
     


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  14. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    You only need 5-10psi at idle when cold. The pressure should come up quickly when the engine speed increases and should run between 40-80psi. When cold it can get close to 100psi. The bypass is supposed to bleed off lower than that, but it seems the oil is so thick that it can't flow out of the bypass valve fast enough and the pump achieves some pretty high pressures. Another reason to let your bike warm up for a minute or two.

    The pressure at the top end doesn't need to be very much, 20psi is the most you need. The idea is that you need something, it can't drop to zero like stock!
     


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  15. Ronald

    Ronald New Member

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    DRill and Tap on Monday

    HI All
    Jamie - A quickie...
    What is a good starting point for the restriction size? eg: The diameter of the 1/8in NPT fitting is ...?
    Will be doing the mod on monday with SSFlex piping and will probably be going for a banjo on the bottom too. Keeps the height down to a minimum but then I will probably have to build in a restriction into a fitting or the shaft of the banjo itself.
    Btw Happy Christmas everyone!
    Regards
    R
     


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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    chirp chirp - chirp chirp

    All I hear are crickets in here.

    Either of you two (Ronald/scario) choose to pursue this mod? I'll be curious to hear what you guys discover.
     


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  17. scario26er

    scario26er New Member

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    I decided to follow Jamie's advice and go with his kit considering I would have paid more just in parts. But I am going to use the sandwich filter for an oil cooler.
     


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  18. Jakobi

    Jakobi New Member

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    I thought he quit selling the kits?

    -Jake
     


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  19. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    Officially I did, but I'll still put them together as a special request.
     


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  20. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    oh, the cat's out of the bag now! So for future reference, how is a special request different from a regular request? :biggrin:
     


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