Help!! How does one identify when a piston is in the compression stroke?

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by jaimev34, Dec 13, 2009.

  1. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    You don't need that stuff. Just use the motor oil you're using in the bike. Smear it on the cam bearing journals and cam lobes and fill the oil pockets in the head. It'll be fine.
     
  2. jaimev34

    jaimev34 New Member

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    Oh my effin mofo piece of crap, shit, fu$%, poop, damn.

    After another 7 hours of assembly, I started it up and it puttered and shut off. A couple more tries and nothing good. Looks like the timing is off.

    Now, it's off to my trusted machanic (whom I should've sent it to in the first place) for inspection. Hopefully, I didn't do any damage, but valve lifters may be bent.

    20 hours spent on this and now it must go to the shop. I'm an idiot!!

    I need a punching bag.
     
  3. Joey_Dude

    Joey_Dude Member

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    Oh man I'm really sorry to hear about that! Oh well, if it helps any at least you know the valves are within spec and all the mechanic has to do is fix the timing or whatever is wrong with it.
     
  4. jaimev34

    jaimev34 New Member

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    I learned a lot from this experience, such as:

    -I will take my bike to a mechanic for motor-related maintenance/problems.
    -I will limit myself to tinkering and let the pros handle the complicated stuff.
    -Wrenching can be a HUGE pain in the ass.
    -I get really achey after 6+ hours of kneeling and hunching over.
    -Sucks having cuts all over your hands; makes taking your keys out of your pocket problematic.
     
  5. kingsley

    kingsley New Member

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    Ditto !!!

    I hope everything works out OK for you.
     
  6. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    I feel your pain...I do that kinda stuff full time for a living. It can be very frustrating.

    I realize the last thing you probably wanna do is listen to advice from a smug bastard like me...but here's what I say...don't give up yet. Sleep on it a day or two.

    Check the simple stuff...resistor caps installed (on the right plugs)...all the connectors plugged in. If it's all determined to be OK...look at the valve timing again. It's alot easier the second time. If you carefully turned the engine over by hand and it didn't go 'clink', it's unlikely any valves are bent. If ya got any questions, post 'em.
     
  7. jaimev34

    jaimev34 New Member

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    Thanks for the post; however, the bike was towed my mechanic this morning. To tell you the truth, I just don't want to work on the motor any more. It's been interesting and informative, but I'd rather let a pro fix what I've wronged. Hopefully it's just the valve timing and not bent valves. This could end up costing me a lot more than if I'd taken it in from the start. I'm not saying we shouldn't work on our motors, rather, it's so critical to get it right and it's such a PIA that I'll let someone else do it. I was gonna open it up again, but I don't have the experience or the eye to tell if something is wrong, and if it is, what to do about it.
     
  8. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Honda "progress" ??

    On earlier 1st and 2nd gen bikes valve adjustment is a breeze, using a wrench, screw and locknut.

    Takes about 1 minute to change clearance on any valve that needs it....and does NOT distrub timing !!!

    Not saying it's better, just saying.....

    ************

    Sorry to read about your bad experience J-34; i'm sure you did your best and got everything right, except for that one thing that you didn't.
     
  9. jaimev34

    jaimev34 New Member

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    Thanks, Squirrel.

    I know I didn't set the cams correctly with respect to the crank.
     
  10. kingsley

    kingsley New Member

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    ...I finally got around to finishing mine. Here's a bunch of pics, not really a "how to" as the manual tells you what to do.

    Marking gears before removing camshaft

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Removing lifter with a magnet

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note the "178" marking on the shim. The shim was sitting on edge when I took the lifter off. Glad the little bastard didn't fall in somewhere!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    New shim "170" in place
    [​IMG]


    Back together
    [​IMG]

    0.006" perfect!!

    [​IMG]

    All done.
    [​IMG]


    The moment of truth...fired up and ran fine. I'll take joey's advice and do a re-check on the starter valve sync, as a valve clearance change would effect it.

    First time for me removing cams, I had done the tappet adjust on the old zuke before...but that's it. Not really difficult...just take your time.
     
  11. Maggot

    Maggot New Member

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    Hey guys, there is a company in Elk Grove Village, IL called Markal that makes a marker that will mark through water and oil.
    Markal: High Performance Industrial Paint Markers and Marking Products

    They have two types, a regular "Valve Action Paint Marker" and a marker called "Pro-Line HP" Get the "Pro-Line HP". This would be ideal for marking cam and gear alignment. These markers sell for about 4 or 5 bucks but if you go to their website they will send you a sample "No Charge". If you just want to buy one you can go to any industrial supply house or a Fastenal store. The Sharpie shown in the pictures is an ink marker and if you bump it or rub it you may lose your mark. The "Pro-line HP will actually penetrate the oil and dry on the steel. They come in 14 colors.

    Sorry for the commercial. thought it might be usefull.

    Maggot
     
  12. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    YES...Putting your finger on the spark plug hole as you turn the engine by hand is a good method.
    Or you can use your compression guage.

    The other way on a SOHC engine is to look at the cam lobes on #1 and make sure the two lobes point up and out at about 45ยบ.
    Also both rocker arms should be loose. If one is real loose and one is so tight it cannot be moved it may not be on the compression stroke even though the timing marks line up. The timing mark Must line up- and you feel the compression.

    On a DOHC you will have to check the intake AND exhaust cams valves for that cylinder.

    If an exhaust valve is tight that is the most concern because if the valve cannot come all the way up to touch the valve seat and dissipate the heat into the head, the valve can get burned.
    If a valve is a little loose ,it may click or tap a little, but there will be no damage and you may save some fuel since the overlap will be shorter duration.
     
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