Help!! How does one identify when a piston is in the compression stroke?

I know its been mentioned, but please turn the engine over slowly by hand as a final check. Very important. Dont ask how I know. :biggrin:

 

Hmm... I've always replaced the o-rings and gaskets. They're not that expensive and it's not worth risking the engine IMO.

 

Word. Better safe than sorry. What about the sealing washers? Did you install new ones?

Hey Bear, who are those hot chicks on your avatar? Do you know if they're available.

 

Here's a few pictures of my project.

Rads dropped for front access.





Tank lifted for rear access. Air box not disturbed.





The source of all that whinning !!!!

Crankshaft index at "3T", cam shaft indexes facing outwards. Ready to check #3 valves. The cam lobes look like they follow the index marks.





Totally unrelated - X-mas bling: a new Gold Chain.:wink:

(thanks to chomper for lending me his chain rivetor)

 

Yup, whatever the service manual states to replace I replaced. BTW, when you're done assembling the bike I highly recommend doing a starter valve sync just to get the bike running in finely tuned state.

Here's a thread on more info for this: http://vfrworld.com/forums/fifth-generation-1998-2001/18343-question-about-starter-valves-5th-gen.html

It's actually pretty fun and easy to do, you just have to adjust some tuning screws, the whole thing takes me about a half hour to do.

 

Thanks again, Joey.

 

Kingsley: Are you going to post some photos of the cam removal and adjustment? How many did you have out of spec?

When you remove the cam holders they may be a bit hard to take off because they are stuck to the head (at least mine were). Even though all the bolts were unscrewed, I had to carefully pry the holders loose, possible because they had never been removed before and from the pressure.

 

I'll take some pictures when I do it. Not in a big rush as I won't be on the road for a couple of months, anyway.

Carefull when torquing those bolts, I read on the web somewhere that people have stripped the threads.
My 3/8" torque wrench is rated 10 - 80 ft/lbs. I think these cam holder bolts are only 9 ft/lbs. I may look at getting a little 1/4" torque wrench. I once broke a clutch plate bolt off with my wrench as it not too accurate at the low settings.

Easy does it.

 

I'll take some pictures when I do it. Not in a big rush as I won't be on the road for a couple of months, anyway.

I only have one intake to deal with its 0.002" under min. spec. at 0.003" (cyl #3, outboard)


Carefull when torquing those bolts, I read on the web somewhere that people have stripped the threads.
My 3/8" torque wrench is rated 10 - 80 ft/lbs. I think these cam holder bolts are only 9 ft/lbs. I may look at getting a little 1/4" torque wrench. I once broke a clutch plate bolt off with my wrench as it not too accurate at the low settings.

Easy does it.

 

Available for what brother? I'm thinking unless it's to eat dinner at the buffet no....

 

Before I assemble the motor, I'm going to buy a torque wrench for the lower end of the spectrum. My 3/8-incher is for torques above 10 also.

 

I was thinking about Soup Plantation or Golden Corral.

 

I bought a 1/4" clicker type torque wrench at Harbor freight for 20 bucks! I know it is cheap Chinese stuff but I figure a cheap torque wrench is better than guessing at the torque. I think the spec's are +/- 6% so at 10 ft.lbs that's 9.4 to 10.6 foot lbs. close enough! I think it is marked in in/lbs (20 to 240 in/lbs.) so you have to devide by 12 to get ft/lbs. The few times I used it, it worked great and at that price it was worth the purchase!

 

On a clicker, after use and during storage you should back down the setting to minimum to help the calibration remain accurate, dija know??

Off topic? sorry.....

 

Yes I did! But thanks anyway, it is an easy thing to forget when focused on an assembly project.

 

Nice clear pictures Kingsley. Seeing them reminds me of a couple more things about the cam holders.

They fit really tight on the positioning dowels, I think that's why they're sticky. When you pry on them..be VERY careful. Allow them to come off as evenly as possible, and keep track of the dowel pins...something you don't want to be dropping down the cam chain tunnel.

The final torque is important...but just as important is to torque them evenly. Since you will be opening a valve on the adjacent cylinder, the cam covers don't want to go on evenly. Tighten each bolt a few turns at a time until the cover is completely seated, then do your torquing.

A magnet works good for removing the lifters when it comes time. If they go in crooked they will bind...don't force 'em. A micrometer can come in handy for measuring the shims as occasionally the numbers are wore off. The lifter, bore clearance is tight...so all it takes is ONE little piece of dirt to make them stick when you start the engine. And of course it WILL cause interference with the piston and bend a valve. Be VERY clean.

 

yep, I knew I had seen them somewhere before

 

Molybdenum Disulfide Oil??

Have any of you procured this lubricant and used it when reinstalling the cam holders????

The manual calls for its use on the application, but I don't know how readily available it is. I called a shop today and I don't think the guy knew what I was talking about.

 

I hope that shop isn't the Honda dealership. :crazy: Anyway, this link is a sample molybdenum disulfide oil: Pro Honda HP4M 4-Stroke Motor Oil 10W-40 32 oz. | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

And yes, I used this oil on the camshafts. It's not that expensive and I'm not risking the camshafts burning up just to save 10 bucks.

 

Joey, I hope you didn't use something like this as this is motor oil. What the manual directs one to use, which I found out after going to a few shops, is engine assembly lube, similar to grease in a sense. It should contain Molybdenum disulfide as an ingredient, and is used for metal on metal applications. You apply it to the cam journals, whereas the sample you provided would be poured into the crankcase to lubricate the engine parts and clutch like conventional motor oil.

Here is an example of engine assembly lube from the website you provided: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...itle=Chemicals&webCatId=23&prodFamilyId=25857

Thanks for the reply.