Curious: Choke Question

Quick choke question here. Ever since I bought my 1000R I haven't been able to use the choke. The bike will not fire up at all if I choke it. During the summer it fires right up with a bump of the starter and (sometimes) a slight touch of the throttle. When it starts getting colder out it's a bit more temperamental. Once it's started it runs great, and I have no other carb related problems with it.

My only question is, is this "normal" for a 1000R, or should I add a carb cleaning to my list of things to do? I know on my friend's VF500 the choke will kick the idle speed up so you don't have to babysit the bike while it's warming up, so that's about the only reason I might like to fix the issue, if it is actually an issue.

Thanks in advance for any and all help and input on this one!!

-Paul

 

Sounds like the choke is out of whack. I am not sure if that model is adjustable.

 

Having the same issue with my 500. Think I may have it fixed after today. Mine worked fine a month ago. Not sure if yours has ever worked from your post.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/first-second-generation-1983-1989/27763-85-vf500-idle-choke-issues.html

 

The idle adjustment screw is your friend--no need to depend upon the choke for a warmup idle speed.

 

And then cut it back down after it warms up? Seriously? Every time?

 

THAT'S why it's there, my good man !!

UNnecessary use of the choke promotes rapid wear of pistons, rings, and cylinders, can foul plugs and dilute oil. Choke should be dialed back to zero after about 15 seconds.

It's just plain lazy --and your bike doesn't really like it--to rely upon the choke for a faster warmup idle.....instead, use the screw.

Save the choking for your girlfriend.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Very recently I did this trick to bypass my enriching circuit that wasn't working. I needed to put on the Mechanix Heat gloves to turn it back down. The bare fingers were not going to do it. And that's with the OEM chin fairing. I didn't even think how impossible that would be with the full fairing.

This method seems like a PITA to me personally. In 20+ years of riding, working @ dealerships, working at an OEM HQ, being in/around the bike biz, talking to OEM engineers, etc, this is the first I've ever heard of this particular starting method. Doesn't mean it's wrong, just different to my ears.

 

D'oh! Your thread was right below mine when I posted it, I should have opened my eyes and done some reading first, sorry about asking a redundant question!

Thanks very much for the input so far guys. The idle adjustment screw is VERY easy to get to on my bike, and I have debated using it for high-idle purposes from time to time. The only thing is, it still doesn't solve my hard starting on cold mornings issue. I'm betting I've got the same thing going on as you, wgregt. I was hoping it wasn't the carbs because the bike just runs so gosh darn perfect, aside from the choke issue! Generally when I've had problems with cold start/choke on other carbureted engines I also have other running issues. When I first bought the bike I did pull the air box off and check to make sure all the choke linkage and plungers were working properly, which they were, so I guess I'll pull the carbs when I get a chance and take a peek at the enricher circuit!!

-Paul

P.S. I know what a PITA the VF500 idle adjustment is to get to. Found that out on my friend's bike this summer!!

 

Paul-
Like you, I hoped the plungers weren't working, maybe the lever wasn't pulling the cable all the way out, etc etc. No luck for me in those regards.

The best way to tell 100% right away if you are clogged is the trick posted on that link: get yourself some clear tubing (I think mine is .25 inch diameter) and carb spray. A couple of short squirts will get you a couple inches in the tube. I'm betting a few of the enrichment tubes will work, and it will slowly leave the clear tubing, and some won't. I let mine sit, worked the choke lever a bunch, and still nothing. Only after I used the guitar string did it work and all four tubes slowly emptied. Follow it with compressed air and report back, yeah?

 

I plan to dig into the carbs and check it out....as soon as I find time to start taking the bike apart LOL

I have lots of other projects I'm hoping to get done on it this winter too. We'll see if I find the time!

Thanks again for the help and advice!

 

My 4G will NOT start unless choked. It takes about a minute before she settles into a high idle (~3,000 rpm) and then the choke can be shut off. From what I've read, this is just the cold-blooded nature of the beast.

There is no way in hell that I would fuss with the idle screw every time I started the bike. I would argue "that's why the choke lever is there, my good man."

My carbs are SPOTLESS inside, BTW.

 

My R and the 3 guy's that I ride with who have R's are cold blooded. Won't start in the cold without choke. It's been that way since June 12th, 1985 when I picked it up new. Obviously your choke should be working and there is absolutely no reason to constantly mess with the idle screw. I've touched mine maybe 3 times in the last 5 years.

 

OK, mostly i ride one of my '86 700s or Hawk GTs, and those bikes have a very easily reached idle screws, so i didn't know about the difficulties on the VF 500.......

A well tuned bike with perfectly clean slowjets and properly adjusted mixture screws should need only zero to 30 seconds of choke in temps above about 50F.