VFR Sidecase Net Install

Parts List

Black 12" x 12" Cargo Net - $2.99 - 4 each
> Black 12" x 12" Cargo Net for Harley - www.debrix.com

Black 4" Zip Ties - 23 each

Black 7-1/2" Zip Ties - 14 each

Black Nutplates - 16 each
Note: the purpose of the nutplate is to serve as a holder for the net, and also to use the eyelet to pass a mounting screw through, and secures the net into the side case plastic - therefore the nutplates threading serves no purpose and after sourcing out the proper depth of screw, you may need to drill out the center of the nutplate just a bit (which the metal is very easy to drill).

Black Screws - 16 each
> Sourced from Parts on Hand, originally a bunch of screws taken from several 1988-1995 Honda's in a Salvage Yard (Civic's Accords, Preludes, etc)
Mic'd Length - 19mm
Mic'd Across Threads - 4mm
> Optimum Screw - Multipurpose Screw, Screw Head should seat flat on the underside to the surface of the case, Length should be 13-15mm, any more and you will need to make use of a spacer as I did (described in the below).

Stainless Low Profile Hex Nuts - 16 each
Optional - see Screw Length above
1/4"-20 Stainless Nuts, ie: McMaster-Carr Item#94804A029 Click Here
- 3/16" 4mm thick (height)
Note: 11 or 7/16" mm across flats (width)
Note: These are not required if you have a short enough screw or grind off the ends
SubNote: Use these as Spacers to prevent Screws from penetrating sidebag's side casing outer shell. These Low Profile Nuts are also light weight - 16 each weigh 1.25 ounces if your concerned about weight.











Here's the Rundown. These are 12" x 12" Cargo nets typically used to fasten Helmets to Back Seats. These particular ones come with 4-each Vinyl Covered Cargo Hooks which you'll discard. My Design was to make the two halves of the side cases useable and hold items, yet still allow for a full-size helmet to fit inside if needed (however I have Motion-Pro Helmet Locks installed on my Rear/Side Frame Tubes, so I don't lock a helmet in my bags often). I intended to leave 1/3 of the top cross-section of the case open for access around the fastened net - which is about 3 inches. I was able to do this on the hatched-open side, however I found it easier to reuse the mounting points for the lanyards stops on the case as a securing point for the inside half - and this reduced it to two inches on this side (which is fine). The area used by the nets covers an irregular 9" x 18" cross-section, and I've found the arrangement I placed the netting in the case is the best way to do so. The Net was installed somewhat stretched and taught to keep it useful. However, the bottom quarter of the netting isn't needed. And because of the way this netting is double and triple wound together, you cannot cut it, and if you did, it would be a real headache to work in because of the way it is woven - hence why I bunched and zip tied the bottom quarter of netting to the bottom edge of the case.



Installation Sequence


Inside Facing Case Section

(1) Remove the 4-each Hooks, these hooks are very pliable, needlenose works well.

(2) Spread out the Net on a table. Here you're going to reduce the 12"x12" net to a 12"x9" by zip-tying the bottom 1/4 squares/netting row to the bottom of the second row - see the video. In short. just take the smaller zip ties, and from the corner fold in one section, and loop the overlap back towards the middle of that square - just see the video!

(3) With the case mounted to the bike, open the case and support the hatching sides bottom - remove the top mounting point (screw) of either lanyard cable, and place a loop of netting inside the nook area, and pin the screw back in place so the net is trapped behind it - see video. Secure the screw back and do this again for the other side. Your top points are now installed.

(4) Make mounting holes in 3 spots along the leading edge of the bottom of the case as seen in the picture - use the notches/reinforcement cells in the side case as a point of reference and count from the lanyard mounting points as seen in the picture (see video). These holes will be 10mm or 3/8" away from the edge to the inside of the case. Bring the already fastened net down and with a large zip tie, run it through the hole and back around and over the bunched/zip-tied bottom of the net as seen in the picture and fasten it down lightly. Do the same for the rest - lightly. Now move the net back and forth so the squares aren't crooked and the spacing is correct - allign the bottom knots to the tops (netting will pull more one way or another because of the odd size of the case, it won't have a perfectly straight appearance), once down tighten them down lightly were it doesn't pull the netting down and make it look as good as you can - just enough to keep it there.

(5) Make the four other drill holes in the case as seen in the picture - count out the notches again for reference with the picture to get an idea of where to drill. Again again, these holes will be 10mm or 3/8" away from the edge to the inside of the case. An that's all there is to that half.


Outside Facing Case Section

(1) Same as Inside Case Step - Remove the 4-each Hooks, these hooks are very pliable, needlenose works well.

(2) Same as Inside Case Step - Spread out the Net on a table. Here you're going to reduce the 12"x12" net to a 12"x9" by zip-tying the bottom 1/4 squares/netting row to the bottom of the second row - see video. Basically just take the smaller zip ties and from the corner fold in one section, and loop the overlap back towards the middle of that square - just see the video!

(3) Because the Outside Case Shell is so awkward and really has no mounting points and apparently looks like there is no way to drill it - I'm gonna give you this upfront before telling you to drill and insert a screw a good 1/4" of the way into the case - because you're gonna freak not knowing that there's a built-up plastic cast section that is approximately 3/8" thick in the case wall. This is the area you'll use to anchor the netting down. The Mounting points I used are the best for getting the netting taught equally across, and to fit the section "as best as possible". If you're looking for otherwise - you will need to build a net from the grounds up, and that is where you'll have to do this on your own - this is just a plug and play simple and affordable modification you can do in 2-4 hours for both cases. OK, now back at it - to secure the netting, I decided to use simple nutplates that you can find in a car used at a salvage yard or buy off the shelf. Mine are used so I couldn't tell you what they go for. The nutplates themselves are perfect for this application. What you'll do is mount the bottom four like I did in the picture. It's a little easier in the picture then it looks. First you have to pilot drill the hole just a tad bit deep with a bit half the size of your screw. Then slide two threads of netting through a nutplate with the nuplate flat edge facing the saddlebag. Next run the screw through the middle of the nutplate. Note - here's the tricky part - there's only a little bit of casing width to mount the screw into - this is apparent because the seal is sitting within this width. The Screw will reside just behind the back wall to this seal. You must keep the screw just on the backside edge of this wall!! If your screw is 13-15mm long, you shouldn't have to use a spacer. If it is longer, you can use a thin 1/4" nut like I did or grind down the end of the screw - it's your choice. So basically what you'll do is fasten this netting down through the nutplate and with a finger placed over the painted side of the casing - feel for any possible buldging while tightening the screw - yeah real good assurance right, no for real - you'll be able to feel it starting to bend just slightly because it's plastic - this is the stopping point if you've threaded too far. You can also pull the screw out and grind off the sharp pointed tip and continue - but none-the-less it's not a problem. Alltogether there is 7/16" or 11mm of material there to use, so what I am saying is if you whoops and forget the spacer - which I did on one of them and felt it bulgding - so this is for reassurance! ... So you do this for all the mounting holes and then your done.



Installation Video

YouTube - Honda VFR Factory Sidecase Inside Netting Addition

In The Video I stated that the Factory Bags are half width and nothing holds them in - this is partially true if you remove the factory included cross-straps as I did. However the entire second half of the case goes unused. All-in-all I didn't like the arrangement. Then I came across the Besteem full-case bags, which at first I thought were awesome! However again, after I thought things out on a purchase, I figured it would allow for items to slosh around and once the case is opened - especially true on the leaning side of the bike - the bag would fall out if heavier items were to the outside portion of the bag. So my idea for this came about because I wanted space management and to keep heavy items from sloshing around quickly or to at least stay in there place and to avoid having to fish for things in a stack of items. These nets to date do this just perfectly!!



Optional LED Case Lighting

I also found some stick-on Lighting at a Radio Chack here in town for $9.99 that I'll end up silicone'ing to the top of the case - as you can see in the following picture. They are really bright, and the on-off switch is the center lens when you depress it. They also take 3-AAA's, and I regularly use these lights here and there around the house with NiMH Batteries and they tend to last a decent while. You may think this might is a bit much or a pain to change the batteries, but it beats having to disconnect an electrical connector from behind the bag everytime you release them.

 

Pretty cool idea. I also have a set of these bags and the standard lanyard is a pain if the bags are not mounted to the bike. I take the bags off and use them as suitcases to take into a hotel room. The short lanyards make the bags impossible to keep open when you are trying to pack. Longer lanyards and the nets are a great idea.

 

I don't know why I didn't think of this myself. Thanks for a great idea!

 

BASFjon - Great post, and well illustrated. Its a nice indoor winter project which is really useful. With luck I can find similar materials this side of the pond. Thanks

Skimad4x4
6th Gen Militia #218

 

Awesome write up...................Well done