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$200 VF500F find and restoration.

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Turbocharged314159, Nov 14, 2009.

  1. Turbocharged314159

    Turbocharged314159 New Member

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    I posted this on VFRD, and figured I'd show you guys too. I'll try to bring this log up to speed quickly.


    A 1986 VF500F Interceptor. Needs some TLC and a new lock set.
    I bought it from an auction company who bought it from a storage company it was abandoned with. The owner parked it in a storage cell, and left it. Hasn't paid rent in over a year, and can't be contacted (phone # no longer in service, mail undeliverable, ect.). That's why I need a new lock set.
    It's all there and in decent condition. I was a small engine mechanic for 3 years, and gave it the going over, and it is in pretty good condition mechanically.
    Price paid: $200

    It'll be my winter project. It needs some work, but I have the time. :biggrin:

    I snapped some pics after the Bill of Sale was signed, I'll take more when I get it home.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Looks like it was down on the left side, but no major damage found as of yet. Obviously I'll need a new clutch handle.
    The duct tape is over a hole in the tank, which I patched up with JB Weld tonight. I don't know how long it'll last, so I'm in the market for a new tank. :frown:
    The rear wheel is on a dolly because it WAS out of clutch fluid. (and the guys who moved it don't know anything about bikes, so they didn't think to put it in neutral).

    I've been working on it for about a week now. The new ignition and key is in the mail, as soon as it gets here I'll install it. For right now I removed the key-part of the ignition and am just turning the switch.

    I've had it running a couple of times on carb clean, and it sounds sweet. :biggrin:

    The Bad:
    - The clutch seems to need some work, I think I might have to replace the hydralic piston (anyone know where to get one?).
    - The starter solenoid also needs replacing, though I'm going to try to rebuild it (can't hurt). I got it started by shorting the battery to the starter terminal on the solenoid.
    - the hole in the tank/rusted tank. JB Weld won't last forever.
    - I had to destroy the tank lock to get it open. I'll see if a locksmith can re-key it, if not I'll have to buy another cap.


    Some pictures from the other night:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'm having some problems with the "Start" switch returning to the normal position (meaning the headlight will remain off unless I pull the switch out). Any ideas on a fix?

    I cleaned out my garage, and it is now my workshop for the winter. Complete with lights and a space heater.


    More news later!
    Matt
     


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  2. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    cool what are your plans for it?
     


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  3. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Nice find at a decent price. Looks like you have something good to build on there.

    Look for a local motorcycle salvage yard for parts or watch ebay. I have Steels Motorcycle salvage here in Denver and I remember we had one back in Minneapolis so I hope where ever you live you have one nearby.

    I have the same starter button problem with mine :biggrin: and I planned on tackling it this weekend. I believe I heard somewhere that a spring from a ballpoint clicker pen is all you need to fix it but I really don't know until I tear into mine. I also picked up a powerpoint to connect up for my GPS :cool:

    Now, for my recommendation; You said you "had the time" so I would personally just pull the carbs and start cleaning. You'll save yourself a lot of headache trying to get it running if you just go ahead and go thru the carbs while waiting for that new tank you mentioned. Do not remove the carbs from their collective assembly!! They should all come out together and remain bolted to the air plenum. Only open up one carb at a time and don't interchange components (jets and emulsion tubes) between them.

    Keep the pictures coming!!
     


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  4. fredsncoma

    fredsncoma New Member

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    nice find

    Looks like you got more than your money's worth on it.
     


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  5. Turbocharged314159

    Turbocharged314159 New Member

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    Haha, another "Matt" with an '86 VF500F.
    For now I just want to restore it to "ride-able" condition. From there I'll work on restoring it to original condition.


    I'll look around for a motorcycle scrap yard today.

    I tried pulling the carbs (loosened the collers that hold them to the engine), and they just refuse to budge. Am I missing something?

    Thanks!
    Matt
     


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  6. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Matt was hoping you wanted to sell that bike for parts :biggrin:

    Be careful trying to remove the carbs. A PO broke a chunk out of my airplenum trying to pry between the frame and the plenum.

    Use a large screwdriver and pry between the head and the extra thick part of the carb (12o'clock position at the top of the rubber boot. I'll see if I can snag you a picture.

    Getting them out is easy, getting them back in without damaging old dried out rubber carb boots is the challenge.
     


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  7. Turbocharged314159

    Turbocharged314159 New Member

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    Haha, another "Matt" with an '86 VF500F.
    For now I just want to restore it to "ride-able" condition. From there I'll work on restoring it to original condition.


    I'll look around for a motorcycle scrap yard today.

    I tried pulling the carbs (loosened the collers that hold them to the engine), and they just refuse to budge. Am I missing something?

    Thanks!
    Matt
     


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  8. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Like I said above, you need to pry with a large screw driver, at the 12 o'clock position of the carb, where it goes into the boot and connects to the head. There should be a thicker part of the carb there and about 1/2 inch space between it and the head. This is the safest place to pry because you won't damage any coolant lines, the head, or the carbs. Don't pry on the air plenum.

    Getting the carbs back on will be the real challenge because your boots are old and dried out. Sometimes you can heat them up in boiling water, new boots are still available for $10/pc from the dealer.

    If you can't figure it out, I'll try to get you a picture.
     


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  9. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    start with the rear two carbs first - here is the pry location:

    [​IMG]

    If your starter switch looks anything like mine, then it's probably a lost cause. The plastic is melted from the contactors getting hot, and one of the pivot tabs was broken off. The contactors are pretty worn too.

    Only $79bucks online - I think I'll go another route.
    SKU: 35130-MF2-P00
    SWITCH ASSY., STARTER STOP (Honda Motorcycle Code 5174321)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


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  10. Turbocharged314159

    Turbocharged314159 New Member

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    ^ the first picture doesn't work.

    My switch looks ok inside, it just doesn't return to the normal position without some help.
     


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  11. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    try again, you probably caught it as I was editing the post for a scaled down version...
     


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  12. Turbocharged314159

    Turbocharged314159 New Member

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    Yup, it works now, thanks!
     


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  13. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    with just alittle help on the suspension side of things they make a great mountain carver bike!
     


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  14. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I don't have any issues carving mountians with my stock '85 suspension :tongue:

    Maybe some folks just need more help than others :wink:
     


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  15. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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  17. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    iduno just my style,never have been much of a knee dragger to me it seems when i try to stick my knee out i feel like im going slower through the corner then i would if i would just lean with the bike i dont know im just weird like that i guess :crazy:
     


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  18. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    knee dragging isn't necessarily appropriate either. Kind of getting off topic here...

    Give this a read and see what you think:
    Cycle Connections Magazine | Motorcycle Rides | Bike Rallies | Motorcycle Reviews | News

    Looking at your body position and your head in your Avatar, you are centered-in to the turn instead of leaned out. By leaning out of the turn, you've moved your center of gravity up and out essentially reducing traction and control. Basically, it negates any advantage you might have had by having the bike that low. Being centered-in, you would be able to be on the throttle harder in the corner and harder exiting.

    Anyway, back to the $200 diamond in the rough!!!
     


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  19. TRX250R

    TRX250R New Member

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    Nice find, but b4 you sink all kinds of money into it, I would make sure you can get it registered. The bikes are (fun) money pits. But make sure you can get to have fun on it.
     


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  20. Turbocharged314159

    Turbocharged314159 New Member

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    I've gotten titles for things in the past.
    I live in Massachusetts, which, unfortunatly, requires a title in order to register something.
    Buuuut, I have a friend in New Hampshire (sp?), and in NH you DO NOT need a title. So I sell the bike to my friend in NHY, he registers it, and sells it back. I take the bill of sale to the MA RMV, along with the proof of prior registration (the papers from NH), pay a titling fee, and get a new title.
    It takes time and money, but it can be done.
    If there's something the MA RMV can do to help me, I'll go that route. If not, I have a back up plan.



    I got the carbs off, and the boots do look pretty bad. Not ruined (I don't think), but I may replace them anyway.

    I'll take some pics in a couple minutes, I'm eating dinner.
     


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