help wanted.have recently replaced R/R with up grade to wiring.Now the wiring has burnt out at the 3 plug from my R/R to my coil/stator.so i have looked for any loose connections and can not find anything wrong.Also do the three yellow wires that come from the coil have to plug in a certain order or do they just go into anyone of the other 3 yellows that come out of the R/R.Because I dont no which is which now.hence the burning.
The order of the yellow wires does not matter.They all throw the same A/C current to the R/R. The wires tend to be damaged past the plug and repairing the damaged wires and connections will bring the resistance down and heat .
im not an expert at all, but it seems if you did not have a problem, changed the rr, now you have a problem. coudl be a faulty rr
my take on this whole thing is that a certain japanese metallurgist monkey'd the actual plug pin materials and they have a relatively high resistance...which leads to the heat failures of the electronic circuitry. that and water and condensation over time, can eat up susbstandard quality wire.
thank you every one.I tend to agree with you all the wiring on these bike are not to good at all.but i have cut out the old burnt wire and replaced it,so if it happens again its off to the shop.thanks again and safe riding.regards Troy
Having seen this many, many times on GL1200's (different bike, similar charging system), the thing I most commonly found was that either the bike was ridden with a chronically weak battery, or ridden with a good battery that was discharged. That 'plug' melting can happen on that one occasion you jump your bike to get it started, then go down the road thinking your charging system will charge your battery. Your regulator is constantly trying to keep your battery at the proper DCV, shunting current away, or directing it to the battery. If you put an ammeter on your battery cable, start your bike and go for a ride...you'd see a spike in charging initially, to replace the capacity in your battery lost from running your starter. But once the system stabilizes and you're riding down the road, A good fully charged battery might draw as little as just a few amps, while a discharged or weak battery might draw as much twenty amps or more to maintain the regs target VDC. Anybody that works with electrical generators knows that more load equals more heat, and heat IS the enemy of wires and components. While a poor connection on that three pin connector is enough to do some 'arc weldin' inside. I tend to think that just as often the culprit is weak or discharged battery.
