Question about RK chain tool

Hoping to receive clarification on the directions that came with the RK chain tool.

After inserting the pins through the backside of the chain and loading up all of the requisite o-rings, it was time to press the side plate on.

I was a bit confused about the directions but it would seem like you would want to put grooved plate on the bolt on the tool and put the sideplate side here so that when pressed, the pin ends to be riveted would protrude through and end up in the groove.

However, what this means is that pin/plate assembly on the other side of the master link which is already riveted or whatever by the manufacturer is what you are pressing against as there is no groove that they would sit in enabling the load to be transferred through the plate and not the pins.

It would seem like you want the load to be transferred through the pins so that they can protrude through the side plate. However, at the same time, I was wincing a bit thinking about this.

 

There should be a plate with a groove (mentioned) and another with two holes (where the pins are). The grooved plate goes on the back side of the master link to spread the load against the link-plate to which the pins are already attached. The plate with the two holes is used to pres the fre link-plate on over the pins. With a little grease on the pins, the link-plate should stay where you place it long enough to get the pressing started.

Most likely, things will move a bit as you go along, so it's a good idea to press a little, then back off and double check that you're still aligned correctly.

Make sure you don't press the plate on too far either; it's easy to overdo and crush the O-ring, leaving you with an overtight link.

I waslk through it a ways down in this post: Cleaning up the old (new to me) beast.

I have the Motion Pro tool, but they're all basically the same.

Also, when staking the pins, you don't need to go crazy, yopu only need to deform the ends of the pin slightly, not mushroom them to death. You only need enough spread to keep them from allowing the link-plate to move (which it doesn't want to do anyway).

Hopefully this helps!

D

 

Very helpful! However, the RK tool does not have the piece with two holes in it for the pins to go in. But that makes total sense. Perhaps I should have bought the Motion Pro one...

 

Sent you a PM. The RK tool should work fine though! :smile:

 

I was just wondering what the outcome was with the RK tool? I actually just ordered one of these and I'm going to be putting on a new chain/sprockets when it comes in beginning of next week. What's the alternative to the Motion Pro two-hole plate in order to use the RK tool? Thanks for any info!

 

Hey elwray,
I answered this to King Tito in a PM, but the RK tool comes with two plates, both have a slot or groove in them. They work in the same fashion as the plates in the Motion Pro kit, only with the grooved plate on both sides, you will find it harder to press the link-plate on too far as the pins will hit the back of the groove and prevent it from pressing further.

It should work fine though, just as I said above, you'll still want to stop every few seconds, back off a bit, and make sure you are pressing the plate on evenly and that the pins are linking up with the groove as they come though the link-plate.

I also wouldn't count on the groove to give you the perfect alignment of the link-plate; I'd still check by eye to make sure that is is even with the surrounding plates.

Otherwise, the tools are nearly identical.

I would also say to find a deep-well socket that fits over both the "nuts" on the press side, just line them up even with each other, and slip the socket over both ...much easier with a socket that turning an open end wrench a million times. It seems obvious, but I've watched people do it the hard way!

D

 

Thanks for the info! I read through that link a few posts up and found it very helpful with the pictures. So the pins go into the groove, as opposed to through the back of the tool in two holes? Seems simple enough. I'm sure it'll make more sense once I have the tool in my hand. I told the guy on the phone at Sprocket Center that I wasn't 100% sure on how to do it having never had a chain driven bike before, so he said he'll throw an extra master link into the box for me in case I foul it up, but I ought to be fine. Thanks again!

 

...does anyone have insight as to which tool seems to be more durable, work better? I am looking to purchase a chain tool:

RK,
DID
Motion Pro
eBay special

 

I can't speak to the RK as I haven't used one, but the construction looks identical (just different plates provided).

I can say that the Motion Pro tool is pretty indestructibly built though, I can't imagine doing something that would break it; I would guess that RK is similar. ...it's just a tool, like a wrench, I think you have to really abuse one to break it.

Just make sure whichever one you order will cover the range of chain sizes you need; they DO come in different sizes, but look outwardly identical. My MP tool will do my XR650R as well as my VFR & KTM 950, so I'm covered, but I *almost* bought one that would have worked up to the XR but NOT the KTM.



D

 

The motion pro tool has a grooved plate and a plate with a hole. The grooved plate goes with the masterlink plate and pin assembly so you press on the plate on the not on the pins. The plate side that fits over the pin ends sits up against the plate with holes in it so the pin ends go through the holes. I personally like this set up better after Zen Moto explained it to me. As far as I can tell, the RK tool won't allow you to use two plates at the same time. You use the grooved plate for the pin ends to go into and the other plate simply presses up against the flat tool wall. I don't like this setup as much as the plate with the holes set up.

 

http://www.rk-excel.co.jp/global/download/uct4060_instructions2008.pdf

With all the nice pictures and stuff.......

 

I used Motion Pro, The only thing I don't like is the press pin is so weak I broke them on my 2nd try............But other then that they are good but the price is not cheap. You can get a set at cycle gear for half the price.

 

I know that no one has asked, but since it seems that some of you guys are new at using the chain tools. I thought I'd though in a safe way to not over press the plates.

Use a mic., or something simular that well stay measured in place.... set it like a feeler gauge on the plate-links next to the master link to have a reference of how far to press the master plates..... Start pressing / take tool off / check with gauge / reinstall tool / press some more / repeat as needed / do not over press.....

Same thing with riveting the end of the link pins "press and check" the spread of the rivet pin with a gauge to the measurement required for the chain.

 

A good way around that is to grind the rivet down to the plate before using the press pin......

 

I take an average width of the links on at least three different spots along the new chain, then use a micrometer to set the master link plate to the average width.

 

Great call Monk, it never occurred to me to mention the process for removing the old chain.

You DEFINITELY want to grind down the pins until they are flush with the plate before using the press tool, I would have been surprised to find that it's even possible to press a pin out otherwise (not surprising you broke the pin in that case).

Get yourself a cheap angle grinder and grind the old master link (any link really) down until the heads of the pins are gone and the whole plate is flush; they should press out easy-peasy at that point!

Good call Monk!!!

 

Thanks for all the info in this thread, got my old chain broken and riveted a master link onto the new one last night with the RK tool. Everything worked as advertised.

 

I sure do

Hi Monk, I did grind the rivets flush to the surface, I think because I used DID Gold Xring.......Tough to press them out do to the high strengh material. IWhat I did now is knock the pins out just a little bit prior using the press tool and this work great. :thumbsup:

 

I really don't understand how you're breaking the pin. I've replaced several DID X-Ring chains with mine, and never had a problem ...not even close!

I know it sounds stupid, but are you positive that you didn't have the grooved "anvil" plate on the back side of the link when you were pressing the pin? ...it has to have somewhere to go when you press it.

Materials shouldn't matter at all, you're pressing a pin through a hole; it just shouldn't be that hard to do as long as the head is ground flush with the plate.

Otherwise, I'd call Motion Pro and tell them what's happening; maybe they had a bad batch of steel for making their pins out of?!?!

D