fast idle and popping

heres the issue....I tried a starter valve sync and it failed me bad. My 2000 VFR now idles at or near 2500 rpm and pops real bad. I would like to know if there is a good fix for this issue. I cannot afford to take it to a shop for fixin.
Would anyone be willing to help me by counting the number of clicks or turns
their starter valves are set at?????? I would think if someone could do that they could also turn it back out the same and there would be no change in their bikes values.I just need a good starting point and the manual does not give a reference to start...

bart

 

Starter valve??? You sure you have the correct name of the part?
High idle and popping sounds like lean condition or air leak.
"IT failed me bad." I would not blame it. Was it ok before you did the adjustment?
Trying to figure out what part you adjusted.

 

I tried to sync the starter valves.....the ones that control air fuel mixture during cold starts up until normal operating temps. there are 3 adjustment screws. what I did wrong was turn too much at a time and did not record number of clicks so I could put it back to where I started.
Bike was running ok when I started but I wanted perfection.What I got was nothing remotely close to anything wanted.
I could also assume the wax idle unit may have failed but thats just a guess.

 

are you using the vacum gauges???

 

I cannot use a vacuum guage because #1 ,which is factory set with no adjustment, pulls way too much for any adjustments to be made while the guage is connected. I am not using a mercury tool but a homemade one with oil.
If I was too use a mercury tool would the mercury be heavy enough as too not get sucked into the engine ?

 

Hey vfrbart, what settings does your manual have for the starter valve sync?

I did that with the same results and only after a buddy of mine scoured the web for a couple days did we discover that Honda changed their mapping and RADICALLY changed the starter valve sync settings!

With the new settings my '99 purrs like a kitten (and it was sputtering bad before and causing the FI light to come on).

The settings in my manual used to be:
#1 Fixed
#3 - 20 (from 1) +/- 5
#4 -10 (from #1) +/-5
and there is no mention of #2 (but it should end up near parity with #1)

The NEW settings are radically different, but I can't remember off the top of my head (I have it at home and can get back to you tonight). If you synced yours to what's written above, I'll bet you a beer that you have an outdated manual.

...good news is it's an EASY fix!!!

D

 

Hey Bart,
You ever get this solved? Did you find the correct Starter Valve Sync settings?

 

I have not fixed any issues yet ...I have been in a move to a different house.
I am goig to turn all adjusters in til they stop and then back them out 1 full turn and start from there.
I understand all that the manual states on doing this procedure. I do have the Honda manual . I will update any changes to this condition. I just wish I knew someone close with the same bike so I could use it as an example tool.

 

I THINK the number one cylinder is adjusted with the idle speed knob (actually it moves all the starter valves). That's why all are synched to that one. You REALLY need a precise way to measure vacuum on all cylinders at the same time to do a good job on this adjustment. Also note (and I don't know why this is) that if you go by specs...not all starter valves are set to equal vacuum figures.

 

I have nothing new to report except the idle will not come down below
2000. The wax idle unit's arm is fully extended and the idle screw is all the way out and still have the high idle.

 

WAX idle arm????
Starter valve???? Do you mean cold start injector?

What are you talking about????
I have been working on motorcycles and cars with carbs AND fuel injection since I was 16 years old and I have not heard anything like WAX idle arm.
By the way if any adjustments are "fully extended " they are probably not right.

According to the internet this is a fuel injected engine-right?

If you have ANY air leaks in the rubber boots etc., it will have a high idle.
But before you can diagnose ANY fuel injection system you have to know that the fuel pressure is correct. Fuel pressure regulator if it has one or just straight from the fuel pump.

ZEN MOTO seems to know what he is talking about.
Get together with him.

Show a photo.

 

I doubt if anyone would do that for you. It is a lot of trouble. Also the exact number of turns is a little ifffy because when a screw is turned all the way in they can vary a little because of threads per inch and other tolerances.

 

Mercury get sucked into the engine??? You better get some help from a mechanic.