Maybe some dumb questions, but here goes: I don't think I've ever noticed a crush washer on my oil drain plug (5th Gen). I've never leaked even a drop of oil. 1. How important or necessary is this? 2. Does a "crush washer" literally do that - compact when you tighten the plug? I was able to find a 12mm copper washer at the local Auto Zone (it specifically says its for the oil drain plug), but its just a flat washer. For some reason, I have visions of an "inflated" washer that will crush/compact when tightened. Appreciate your insight.
I have reused mine a few times just flip it over. but the part you have from auto store should be fine - it crushes when you tighten it up.
Don't worry about it. I changed the original one on my 83 about 3 years ago. It was wrapping up over the edges of the bolt pretty good. Never ever leaked. Hey for 15 cents I figured what the hell do it. I got over 50k miles worth of oil changes out of that baby.:faint2:
It's more for your oil pan threads than anything else. The crush washer "gives' instead of the threads in your oil pan. Each time you tighten your oil bolt the crush washer gives a little more, thus running a little deeper into the pan. 5-20 oil changes later the oil bolt strips the threads and you say %$#@!!!!!!!. I used to never change it either until fellow track junkies shared horror stories. BZ
What others have said is correct. It also seals around the hole in the oil pan when you tighten things down, which you can see after you have tightened it down once and look at the washer. You will see a raised ring where it has formed a tight seal here. I replace mine once a year in the bike and in the car. They are so cheap there is no reason not to. Half the time my Honda dealer throws it in for free because its more of a hassle for them to ring it up. There is nothing special about the washer for the bike. They are the same for all vehichles. All that differs is the diameter of the washer and the hole. If it fits, you're good.
Good observation about saving the threads. I let the washer go too long on my old '88 Hurricane when I was a teenager. I torqued the plug to spec and stripped the pan. Now I change the washer every time. Its not like it is an expensive part, but that oil pan sure was. I work at a Honda auto dealership, and we change that washer with every oil change. I think the repair manual for the VFR says you should change it every other time.
Bubba's totally right...steel bolt in aluminum threads...I think we all can figure out what's gonna give first. Lost count long ago of how many drain plug threads I've helicoiled. Besides...how many Honda OE parts that important can you buy for under a buck?
I bought several crush washers from the local Honda dealer a couple months ago. Should be enough to last me at least a year or two, since I replace it every (or every other) oil change.
anytime i am ordering stuff from service honda, i add a few to the order. i also try to keep the coolant drain bolt washers on hand too.
Bit of thread archeology here but is there any reason to use alu or copper? Skickat från min E5823 via Tapatalk
Funny, here the Honda kit is alu and Kawasaki says copper (I have an er6 too) Skickat från min E5823 via Tapatalk
1. You can get by without it, until you don't, but the consequence of over-tightening a drain bolt on a crankcase are really bad. Aluminum work hardens over time...too risky for me to end up with a cracked crankcase or stripped threads or similar catastrophe. 2. Yes. the washer is softer aluminum than the cast crankcase and it compresses as soft metal as opposed to a true crush washer. 3. The cost of a genuine Honda "crush" washer is insignificant. Get one when you buy your filter. None of this is rocket science. There's a reason Honda has "crush" washers for the drain bolt.
