ConvertiBar Install Pics

I bought a set of ConvertiBars in the spring because they were on sale, and finally got around to installing them yesterday. There isn't a lot on this site about these bars, so I thought I'd post up.

I chose these bars because they are adjustable. It sounds nice in theory...we'll see if I actually move them once I find a setting I like.

My objective was to install the bars at the setting of the factory bars. I'll get into moving them around after I've marked the bars for that setting, and I've changed out some lines & cables. But that's a separate project. I can post up about that if anyone is interested. I'll try to include anything about the install that's quirky.

OK -- here goes: The first pictures are before and after the install-



Now the step-by-step: First, grip removal is pretty straightforward. A small flat-blade screwdriver, some Dawn, and patience is all that's required. Removing the factory bar is simple enough as well. I used a small chisel to pry the pinch channel a little. Note the ShamWow on the fairing...this is the only thing I've found those things are able to do. They certainly don't soak up liquids. (I got them as a gag for Christmas)



I've included the next photo to show the WRONG way to put the collar on the fork. Placed this way, access to the pinch bolts is obscured by lines:



Here's the right way:



Next comes some trimming. The vertical piece that holds the bar I trimmed to the 9th index line. the bar I trimmed to the 4th line from the end, ultimately (the photo shows the trim to the 2nd line...I went back later & took off more).




The next photo gives an idea of how the design works. You can see the pinch bolts for the fork and the bar mount rod. You can also see how the height of the bar can be moved up and down. Moving the bar fore and aft is accomplished by rotating the fork collar about the fork. Bar angle is accomplished with an eccentric washer and a plastic plug you can see in one of the pics above. The plastic piece is sticking out because I hadn't tightened it yet.



That does it for the left bar. The right bar is similar. I found it best to remove the stock bar and slide the throttle off rather than try to remove the throttle cables and slide it off the end with the bar still mounted to the fork.

An additional index hole needs to be drilled to accomodate the throttle housing. It must be drilled with a 5.5mm bit (I know because I had to go back and open my first attempt a bit wider); if you use a standard bit, your hole will be too small, or larger than it needs to be:



The bar ends are re-used from the factory bars. Invex includes a hex head bolt to fasten them to the ConvertiBars. I think it looks like a nipple - it doesn't mount flush like the stock phillips screw, and the stock screw isn't long enough to fasten the end. While nipples aren't bad in & of themselves, I don't like the look and will probably come up with something else. Throttlemeisters reportedly mount to these bars.

The last pic is of me with my shop assistant. He helped wash the bike before the install, and ran away with the tools I wanted just when I wanted them. Maybe today he'll help me install the pile of fiber cement siding in the background on the shed we're putting in the back yard.



Hope this helps someone!

 

I've had the Convertibars on my 02 VFR for many years and they are really nice. I too purchased partially because of the adjustability. However, after setting them on the most upright setting (for a long trip) I found that I could rip through the turns just as easily as if they were low and forward. So, they've been in the full upright position ever since and I'm almost sitting straight up. Only problem is that they set you so far up that I have not found a wind screen that eliminates buffeting- even the GIVI tall screen doesn't work and I'm only 5'9". But, those Convertibars, along with a Throttlemeister and a Sargent seat, made back to back 800+ miles day doable.

VFRMike.

 

I was looking at the Convertibars myself. $339.95 is pricey, but bearable if it means being more comfortable. The thing that gets me is the $224.70 that they want for the "Bike-specific Completion Pack".

convertibars.com

Sounds like a ton of $$$ for a longer brake hose an throttle cables (oh, and don't forget the horn)!!!

Is this even necessary? How high can you get the bars without pulling or binding the brake hose / throttle cables?

 

just awesome look at how high they can raise....wow.................

 

I picked the bars up for $270 directly from Invex in the spring. I don't know if that price was due to the poor economy, or if you can count on it in the springtime every year, or what. At that price, they're the same as Heli Bars at retail. I found the sale price by accident...I just happened to check out their site one day, and it was there.

I'm going to replace the lines with a braided steel Galfer kit (wait 'til you see the pricetag on that). I figure the owners manual calls for line replacement soon, anyway, as basic maintenance. I'll have to get the throttle lines from Invex...I haven't found them anywhere else. I don't think the horn line really needs to be altered.

There is a little room for movement without replacing the lines. The clutch side is the tightest. If you run the line so it comes up on the gas tank side instead of the dashboard side, you get room to move it.