2005 VFR - Stebel Nautilus Horn Concealed Install

Hello Everyone, this is my first real post (aside from introductions) based on my weekend spent installing my new 139db Stebel Nautilus Horn > this thing is FREAKING LOUD! Anyhow, hope you all enjoy, and let me know if you have any questions.

First off, I need to thank my Dad as he had the tools and mechanical/electrical skills to complement my ideas. He helped me a lot (as in, did some of the work while I spent time watching and advising).

Alrighty, I removed both left and right fairings as well as the stock horn, mostly just to try to determine the best mounting location for the horn. I explored every possible option; under-tail, between the front forks, the current horn's mounting location, exterior mounting (on either side of the bike), and possibly each fairing. I had to consider factors like the ability to keep the horn safe (dry, clean, protected), do the same for all of the wiring, keep the entire install concealed, keep the horn mounted withing 15 deg of vertical, and other requirements like that. I finally settled on a small section under the left fairing between the forward edge of the radiator and the left turn signal indicator. This horn fit perfectly once I fabricated and tweaked the mounting bracket and provided the easiest access to the current horn switch wiring.

One of the first and most important things is to find a secure mounting system, you don't want to mount into any plastic or similar pliable pieces on your bike. Also, the horn isn't heavy, but it isn't' light either, and it vibrates when operated, so you have to make sure the mount is secure. You also need easy access to the wiring for the horn switch. This particular horn pulls more than the 10 amps your stock horn does, so you will also need a relay added into the system. Luckily, the horn comes packaged with the relay you will need. I elected to keep my current horn in-place, so when I press the horn switch my stock horn and the new horn both sound (and it sounds like an ocean-liner is coming through).

You will definitely need to obtain and know how to read a wiring diagram for the bike. Also, the diagram that comes with the horn and relay is not accurate for this particular application, though it's close. So it helps to have a general understanding of what the wiring diagram is saying you need to do. As a short-and-short, you will splice into the wire from your switch to your horn and run that wire to the relay (18 GA wire, in this case). Then you will run another wire (14 GA) from the battery to the relay switch, using an in-line fuse near the battery terminal (20A Fuse). Another wire (14GA) will run from the relay to the new horn + (POS) terminal. Then just 2 wires to go (both 14GA); 1 from the - (NEG) terminal on the horn to ground, and another from the relay to ground. To accomplish all of this, you will need several feet of 14GA wire (colors really don't matter) and a foot or three of 18GA wire (again, color is irrelevant). You will need barrel connectors, terminal ends (both plug-style and loop-style, pardon my lack of technical terms) as well as 2 quick splices. Also, you'll need some shrink tubing to help seal some of the connections that could get exposed tot he elements, as well as a little electrical tape.

I kept the patterns I used for the mounting bracket, and I would be willing to fabricate a mount for anyone who is interested, with just a small cost to cover my time, materials, shipping (I think it took me about 1.5 hours to make the bracket). Just PM me if you want one.

I guess I'll get into the step-by-steps now!

Note: Pictures were taken with my blackberry, so they aren't "perfect".

Step 1 - Removed the left fairing.

Step 2 - Determined a suitable mounting location

Step 3 - Used a piece of cardboard to cut and shape how the bracket should fit/look.





Step 4 - Using a piece of scrap metal from a stop-sign post, we cut the metal at one seam and bent/hammered it flat. This stuff was seriously strong, and probably a little overkill for our purposes, but it worked great.





Step 5 - Using our cardboard template, we traced the pattern onto the now-flat metal and cut away.





Step 6 - Placing the bracket in-place, we repeatedly tweaked/checked/tweaked until it was right. The trick here was to get the right amount of bend, and as vertical a mounting surface as possible, mostly because it was a snug fit to get the horn in-place, and you don't want to stress inner or outer fairings if you can avoid it.



Step 7 - Mounted everything in place, ensuring the proper use of washers and lock-washers. I went and bought an assorted metric bolt/nut/washer kit from Autozone, it contained everything I needed except the lock-washers, which I also bought.




NOTE: PICTURES TAKEN FROM HERE ON WERE DONE AFTER THE WORK WAS COMPLETED.

Step 8 - Once everything was mounted up, we began the wiring. Starting with the 14 GA in-line fuse wire, we clipped it and put a terminal end on it, this piece goes to the + (POS) side of the battery. We used shrink tubing over the connections near the battery to protect the linkages from water/dirt). (DO NOT CONNECT THE WIRE TO THE BATTERY YET!)



Step 9 - The other side of the in-line fuse wire was barrel-connected to 14GA wire that runs to the appropriate terminal of the relay (which is mounted up near the horn). We wanted to avoid running the wire in any way that would cause it to touch sharp metal edges, or the engine header/block. We basically decided to use the brake-lines on the inboard portion of the frame and gently spun the wire around the brake lines up to the front of the bike where we dropped the wire down and around to the general location of the mounting bracket. Place a slide-clip style terminal on the wire and (using our hand to support the relay, because you don't want to crack the plastic) slide it onto the appropriate relay terminal.



Step 10 - Using 14 GA wire, cut a length to run from the Relay to the Grounding point. We found that the bolt that holds the wire-clip was most convenient but you can use any bolt that screws into the frame of the bike. Using a circle terminal end on one side (the frame-bolt side) and the slide-clip style on the other, we attached the wire to the relay and grounding-point. This differs from the wiring diagram included in the horn kit, which is not accurate. That diagram shows the - (NEG) wire from the old horn being spliced into this particular wire from the relay. Since the - (NEG) wire on the current horn is actually a ground wire, you can just ground this wire to any point on the bike. It is not necessary to splice off of the - (NEG) wire that runs to the old horn, and that is hard to get at anyway.



Step 11 - Using 14 GA wire, cut a length to run from the + (POS) terminal on the horn to the appropriate relay post, using slide-type terminal ends on both sides, and connect it up.

Step 12 - Using 18 GA wire, cut a length long enough to splice into the light-green (Lg) wire coming out of the switch into the first harness. Before you hook up the splice, put your slide-type terminal end on the wire at one end. On the other end, it's best to splice into the Lg wire before the harness (as related to the switch) as it's easier to replace if you screw up. I used a quick, no-cut splice for this and it works very well. You basically identify on the quick splice the end which has a blocked line, this is where your new wire will go (because it shouldn't come out the other side). You bend the clamp over and use pliers to clamp it down until it snaps over the little notch in the side. Then you use the other side of the splice (should have places for wire to come out both sides, as the whole idea is not to have to cut your Lg wire) and repeat the clamping down with pliers process until you have a properly spliced LG wire with an 18 GA piece of wire running to the proper relay terminal post. Use electrical tape on the splice assembly to help keep it closed, and to protect it.



Step 12 - Now the final wire; use 14 GA wire cut-to-length to go from the horn - (NEG) terminal up past the relay and splice (as with step 12) into the GROUNDING wire you set up in step 10 (GROUNDING). On the other end of this wire (the part that connects to the NEG terminal of the horn) you use a slide-type terminal end. Hook it up.





Step 13 - Find some ear-plugs.

Step 14 - Turn on the bike's electric power by turning the key - test the horn switch. Really this part is just for fun, you should only hear the stock horn "meeping" because you haven't connected the battery terminal yet. Take note of the weak, moped sound.

Step 15 - Turn off power to bike (using the key)

Step 16 - Connect the new horn power line end to the + (POS) terminal of the battery.

Step 17 - Verify hearing protection in place!

Step 18 - Turn on power to bike - Depress horn switch - Turn off power to bike, compare ringing in ears.

Step 19 - Apologize to your neighbors for the noise, and go get some clean underwear.

Step 20 - Replace all fairings and enjoy scaring the living crap out of cagers when they try to merge lanes into you.

 

Damn Fine Job! and thanks for the pics!!!
i've been thinking on this a while... now maybe i'll take the plunge.
looks good! curious if the L. fairing fit back easy w/out interference to the horn, etc...
j~

 

Actually, the fairing went together perfectly, no problems (stress, rubbing, snagging) whatsoever. However, I did have to shave a small piece out of the top of the bend in the bracket to keep it from rubbing against one of the black inner-fairing edges. It's actually a perfect fit, if you take the time to position it carefully and adjust the bracket before getting it all hooked up.

Thanks for reading!

 

You can connect that wire to the battery at any time, JUST LEAVE THE MAIN FUSE OUT UNTIL YOU'RE FINISHED INSTALLING.

One more thing - if the horn ever stops honking, that cheapass relay they give you with it is the first place you should look. First it's not waterproof, and secondly they sometimes come pre-corroded, yes that's right it's a Chinese piece of crap.

The Nautilus isn't the highest quality piece of gear out there either but keep it dry and it should last a few years. At least they're cheap.

Now, be warned that when a driver makes a mistake and you HONK that thing, he's going to become very very angry. I advise you to save the horn for those times you really really need it and please be careful of those angry drivers, they can kill you. Heck remember some of them keep a handgun in the glovebox, others just want to ram your bike off the road. Some might tailgate your arse off, who knows what an angry driver might do.

I once had a guy who really really wanted to ram me, then he'd cut in front of me and hammer his brakes. Finally when I pulled over, he pulled over, jumped out of his car and wanted to beat my brains out. I survived I think because he decided when he got almost to me that attacking a 6'4" guy with helmet and armoured suit was just stupid. I tell you what though, it was more than annoying the way he tried to ram me etc.

 

I can also speak of the cheapo relay going bad. One day when I went to beep at someone, the darn thing got stuck on. Talk about embarrassing!

I pulled the fuse and got home and opened things up. When I took the relay out, it was dripping water out of it. I split it open and the internals were solid rust after only a few months of use.

I put in a better relay, and ended up putting a balloon over it, and zip tying it closed around the wires. So far so good!

 

I actually put mine in between the top of the front cylinder head and the frame, tight fit, but did fit, used the stock bracket, just had to twist it 90 degrees.