I just did an install of Fog Lights

Last post today

I liked the location of the switch, although I will admit, didn't try it in more than 2 locations. The switch has three leads- one to ground, one to relay, and it needs power from the headlight. Which I'm not sure I understand. Why do I need a relay? I've got power to relay, power to lights, and power to switch. Why not just wire it from battery to switch to lights? I thought it had something to do with compactness and wiring into remote locations. But in this case, the switch is about 12 inches from the lights, and it is positioned between the lights and the battery. Do I need a relay?
Anyway, the fuse panel is on the right front dash, and this switch is on the left front. It also needs a 2A fuse in line. I cut the kit wire down from 8 feet to 18 inches with the fuse in it. The kit cam with one of those clamp on wire taps. I wasn't that crazy about it to begin with, and it would cause problems later on.

 

You need a relay so you don't burn out the switch.

Watch those connections, you have bare metal showing, just the place to short out later.

I hope you didn't use the Scotchlock on your headlight wire. Personally I recommend to toss them away. Posi-Taps are your best bet.

In fact, you should tap the wire which triggers the stock headlight relay, NOT any of the wires to a bulb. Choose LO or HI beam as you desire the lights to be active.

If you want the lights available anytime the bike is running you should tap another hot wire like a wire to a brakelight switch. Since you have a manual switch you don't need to activate the lights with your headlights. You definitely want them off when the bike goes off though.

The thing is it's handy to have them come on with the LO beam but there may be a time when you want them on with HI beam and you can't do that with them triggered by the LO beam.

 

Thanks, Doc!

Burn out switch? According to their wiring diagram it has full power running through it from the headlight anyway. That's what I don't get. The switch is tapped into the headlight, not the new lights. So the switch will not be a draw on the headlight. Or are you saying it is? If it is, then that is my point. If I wanted to skip the whole relay, and lighted switch thing, I would have been happy with just a toggle switch, flush mounted in pretty much the same location. Full power to switch, full power to lights, end of story.

Posi-taps- I've never seen those. I'll pick up some (Radio Shack?) and replace the one I've already put in. What goes wrong with Scotch locks? Do they vibrate loose easily? Is the connection weak? I ended up testing that connection, later, and it showed 11.6V, while all the others showed 12.2V. Is that a sign? Again, it is only for the switch and closing the relay. So it seems adequate, but you are saying there are better choices?

The instructions called for hi/lo choices but I didn't want them off. I want them shining forward all the time, and I'll turn them off if I want.
I'm going to drive with them for a week, and then make some inspections and changes. I'll get the Posi-Lock on then, and see if I can change the location.

 

I got mine from Jim (Eastern Beaver). I bought most of the variations so I'd have them on hand when I needed one.

 

The switch should only be used as a way to control a relay that will have all power going through the Relay, thats what they are design to do so you dont overload the switch. Also having them on at all times will only beg for a dead battery. Use the realy to be only active when key is on.

 

PosiTaps and PosiLocks only way to go for wiring. Eastern Beaver has some really cool electrical stuff that works great on the older VFRs.

 

Relay

I do understand how a relay is SUPPOSED to work. But read my question carefully:
Burn out switch? According to their wiring diagram it has full power running through it from the headlight anyway. That's what I don't get. The switch is tapped into the headlight, not the new lights. So the switch will not be a draw on the headlight. Or are you saying it is? If it is, then that is my point. If I wanted to skip the whole relay, and lighted switch thing, I would have been happy with just a toggle switch, flush mounted in pretty much the same location. Full power to switch, full power to lights, end of story
If the relay takes full power to close it- then what is the point? My first understanding of switches and relays is that they are supposed to be with lower amperage, smaller wires, and put switches in remote locations. But for my application, it has the same size wire, it is not very remote, and the Eager Beaver guy says it will be a big draw on the headlight. So what does it accomplish?
If the switch is in danger of being "burned out"- then why not just get a switch (nice 12v 30A toggle) that won't be burned out? Maybe in my case it is a case of the equipment not being appropriate for the application, but for a tiny little motorcycle, where the control is not going onto the handlebars or deep under the dashboard, I don't see the point of putting in relays.
Just my observations, there is certainly much that I don't know about wiring.
thanks for input, everybody. I'm still testing this rig out and am planning some changes for the next time it is parked.

 

The coil side of the relay is 2amp fuse and the switched side is 15 amp fuse......per diagram.....that should be a clue for the need of relay.

 

cool..........................................

 

I have actually thought of a light bracket that would go on the mirror bracket, like I have seen for the ST1300 here Turbo City - Rock-It Parts I have put it off, but out of curiousity, how many others would be interested in such a product. Keep in mind that the closer to your eye level you get the lights, the more effective they are.