Castrol Syntec 10W-40???

Ok oil gurus...

I did my best to read through the abundant oil threads and I'm still thoroughly confused. I tried running the Honda 10w-30 synthetic for about a hundred miles and my bike felt buzzy and notchy. I was going to replace it with the Honda 10w-40 but they were out. I went to Schucks auto and the guy there told me Castrol Syntec would be fine. I've only run this oil for about fifty miles and it seems much smoother but I can't find anywhere on the bottle that identifies it as motorcycle compatible. I don't want to be running oil that will cause issues and I'm nervous I may have yet again chosen incompatible oil.

Thoughts on whether I can keep this oil in the bike safely???

 

Honestly, I would advise you to drain the Castrol oil out and replace with Honda motorcycle oil or compatible motorcycle oil. The difference between automobile and motorcycle oil is the fact that automoble oil has the task of lubricating the engine, motorcycle has the task of lubricating both the engine and the whole transmission. Also, our bikes have the capacity of reaching 11,500 rpm, most cars only 7k max. The automobile oil, although good, will break out at a much greater pace due to these conditions, causing insufficient lubrication to the mechanicals of your bike.

I was about to put automobile oil in my bike before I did my oil change too, but I researched it for a couple hours before hand and decided to go with Honda oil (about $5/quart).

Other guys may say different from expierence, I've only owned my bike for a month or two and it was my first oil change, but I'm a Mech. Engineering major and the facts all add up.

If you want to save the oil, drain it out and store it and put it in your car next oil change.

Sorry for the bad news bud

 

Shell Rotella T 5w-40 Full Synthetic!

Motorcycle Oil and Filters

 

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Synthetic.

 

Unless the clutch slips, I wouldn't worry about it. I've used Castrol GTX 20-w50 (non-synthetic) in all my bikes for years and never had any oil-related problems. The syntec (semi-synthetic, right?) may give your clutch some problems, but if it doesn't, don't worry about it. And you'd probably know by now if it was going to.
Just my opinion.
Cheers!

Craig :smile:

 

Opinions about oil are rather like assholes-- everyone has one. :biggrin:

My vote goes to Red Line 10W-40 synthetic motorcycle oil in combination with Purolator Pure One filters. (By the way, I've also found that Bel-Ray makes an excellent chain lubricant for O- and X-ring chains.)

Once my '07 VFR recently passed 8000 miles, I switched from OEM Honda oil and filters to Red Line and Purolator. Before this, the engine was consuming a bit of oil between changes every 3000 miles, but now I'm finding that the oil level is remaining remarkably constant so far, and the engine seems to run more quietly and smoothly.

Now that I'm using Red Line, I feel safe changing the oil once every riding season rather than every 3000 miles.

YMMV.

 

Based on the very long threads on here and other sites, as well as the article referenced on a post on here from a magazine (I don't recall which one, Sport Rider it seems, but don't quote me) about motorcycle oil, I think you'll be fine running any kind of 4T 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil, brand of choice.

I ditto what Klos87VFR700 said about why car oil isn't so good, which was also substantiated/documented in that magazine article...

 

I had a similar experience with Honda synthetic in my VFR (10w-30) I went back to Castrol 4T (5w-40)100% syn motorcycle oil and if feels much better.

 

I've used, and continue to use, Castrol Syntec 10W-40 in my bikes. No problems, change it out around 5,000-7,000 miles or so. I have never used a "motorcycle oil". Just never felt it was worth it.

 

CAR oil vs MOTORCYLE oil..........watch this video (www.jaylenosgarage.com) click on videos go to (car care) click on Motorcycle oil vid. You may change your mind.

 

I don't think so.

The company wants to convince you that you need to use this expensive motorcycle oil, what else would you expect them to say? That most any oil will work and you're paying a huge premium for no reason? I think I'll stick with what has worked for many years.

 

OK, then read the article posted in one of the other threads from the magazine, it might change your mind...

 

I cant give you an answer ,however I have read about this oil and it looks like
Castrol has done many positive things to their synthetic oils. If I am not mistaken,this oil is in a gold container, it makes several claims about lubrication properties,
detergency and ability to go several thousand miles without changing. Not that this matters ,but this new Castrol is very expensive and costs more than the Mobil one and some other premium synthetics. If I were in this situation,I would not throw this oil away. Just monitor how the bike runs and shifts and how the temp runs compared to how it used to. J

 

oil

i use syntech always as long as you read the label and it doesn't say (energyconserve}

 

OML This is an easy one. Yo listen up. psss, Amsoil silly. you won't be sorry either. Try it, you'll like it. For those that haven't tried it, be quite it's Cliffs bike. but do what you want, it's your bike.

 

The main point on Auto vers. MC oil, that you need to be aware of, is that your bike has a wet clutch(oil). MC oil if made to be used with wet clutches. While auto oil at first may or may not work, given time the clutch will be come slippery......... There's the info... Use it wisely:thumbsup:

 

I Back RVFR. "Amsoil" I have put 100K on three diff. bikes, and I wait till I get about 15 to 20k on them before changing to syn. oil. Because it works so well I don't want to risk "not" getting the motor run-in enough(rings/walls)before using syns.
OMV

 

Im sure the vfr will go 100k with or without synthetic oil, so ill just use the regular stuff.

 

yep use the Honda stuff....