Front Wheel Bearing Options

I used this bad boy that I picked up at Lowe's or Home Depot with a block of wood and a hammer to tap in the bearing using the outer race only as the pressure point.






I also used a propane torch to heat up the wheel hub a little bit right before inserting the bearing. Also, I placed the bearings in the freezer for a good hour to help make the whole process go smoothly as possible.


You can use a large socket...but I had trouble finding one large enough for the outer race, but small enough to fit into the wheel hub as the bearings sit recessed into the hub. I didn't want to use the back side for fear of applying too much pressure to inner race and denting the balls.

 

I've always been told to use old bearing to set new one, but haven't done it yet.

 

I thought about it...but didn't want to risk getting the old bearing stuck in the hub since the new bearings are recessed a few mm inside in the hub.

 

You can get a slide-hammer from Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc. to remove them. Just use the hook attachment and move around as you hammer the old bearing out.

There is a sleeve between the bearings and it may need to be pushed over with a screw driver .

 

it's easy to drive them out with a medium-to large hammer and any long drift or long 3/8" or 1/2" drive extension, no fancy slide hammers or etc, needed and using no Chinese communist tools.

Installation requires only the same hammer and a large socket that covers the outer ring of the bearing and fits into the wheel recess diameter.

Socket driver size=31mm or 1 3/16"

Helps to grease the bearing hole and drive in very straight, a little at a time, and without allowing it to get cocked. I don't think PVC pipe is strong enough.

 

:kaboom:
BBearings

 

what is usually the life span of the factory bearings?
i'm pushing 18,000 miles on the odo and have a 4 hour ride to vegas planned in 2 weeks.
should i be concerned?

 

I replaced mine simply because I had the wheels powdercoated. My 5th gen has only 30,000 miles and I wouldn't have even thought about replacing them if I hadn't done the wheels. You're good to go.

 

When it comes to the application of high end, ceramic alloy matrix bearings it isn't only the operational rotation speed of the bearing, it's the drastically reduced rolling resistance. These bearings are used by all supersport and superstock racing teams, when the rules allow the use of non oem bearings. These rules can be otherwise very restrictive concerning the allowed internal engine modifications. The use of these bearings in engine and rolling stock applications, however expensive, have been proven to drastically decrease parasitic hp losses, which means a net gain of hp. I have seen data of comparative dyno runs and you would not believe the difference in coast down times (indicative of internal engine and wheel bearing friction) with oem bearings and ceramic alloy matrix bearings. If I had the money to afford them, I would most certainly use them.

http://www.microblueracing.com/bearing_central/ceramics.php

http://www.microblueracing.com/aprilia/aprilia_main.php

 

YOU can't get THOSE at your Honda dealer !! No SIR!

I'd need factory stickers " XXX ceramics" to gain cred in the paddock or drive-in......

Spaceage kit gotta be at least 5 times the cost of stock, eh ??

 

Cost is relative to what you are trying to accomplish and your feelings toward outright performance, most people don't understand spending money on superfinishing, DLC and cryo treatment...but somehow I do :redface: Someday, I will try them.

If you wanted paddock cred, all you would have to do is show up with your backpack full of bushy tailed friends and take them for a lap......

 

Thanks for posting the link to MicroBlueRacing NorcalBoy. I've been hearing lots of good things lately about ceramic bearings and I've been curious to give them a try. Not for my VFR800,but for my RC51. I just plunked down for the RC51 wheel bearing kit. To bad they don't have any kit listed for the transmission,I'd like to try that too. Thanks again for the tip.

Soundmaster31,I use the AllBalls tapered roller bearing kits in the steering stems of my bikes,but I use OEM bearings in the wheels. I clean and repack the wheel bearings at the beginning of riding season. It's definitely a slow and tedious job that most people won't take the time to do. The original OEM rightside rear wheel bearing on my old '86 VFR700 failed at 55,000 miles,that's when I replaced all the wheel bearings on that bike. With proper care and maintenance those OEM wheel bearings should last.

When I bought my old '97 VFR750 used I replaced all the wheel bearings on it. If you balked at the price of the OEM seals and bearings for your front wheel wait til you see the price for the rears my friend. I guaranty your face is gonna look like this . Mine sure did.

 

If you really want the transmission bearing kit, get the part numbers from the Honda fiche and give them a call, they can probably put a kit together for you. Removing the transmisssion friction and reducing the heat, can unlock some hp and for the price, dollar for dollar, it is a great perfromance investment. I have seen the bearings and held them in my sweaty little palm...they are jewelry, it's a shame to have to hide them away inside the engine cases :tongue:

 

This has nothing to do with wheel bearings per se, just ceramic ball bearings in general. One of the reasons that ceramic balls were developed was due to steel balls deforming at extremely high RPM's due to centrifugal force. Scary thought.

Yet one more memory dredged up from the cobwebs...

 

Ceramic balls are also more "round" than steel balls, are more uniform with relation to actual size, and have a much better surface finish, which again, reduces friction and the generation of heat. Ahh, the technology that is available today is amazing....the quest for outright performance has no boundary outside of economics.