anyone here do carb cleaning?

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Had squirrelman do my carbs - he did a great job! thanks!. got them turned around quick - reasonable price. bike fired right up and is running good now. he even help me out putting it back together since i'm a dork and forgot how i took it all apart

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I have a 86 VF500. the carbs need to be cleaned, i have them out (although i'm not sure how they will ever fit back in...)

i also have 4 of the gasket sets (16010-MF2-711) for them.

let me know your prices. i can't spend a lot, but this seems to big to tackle myself

 

Go over to V4HondaBBS.com and look up a guy named "BillyC". He's the carb guy. It's not cheap, but nothing that involves carbs ever is.


Here is the proper removal and installation procedure:
Daugherty Motorsports - Motorcycle Suspension Performance and Modification

 

Michelle; I am sure you will get varied responses regarding your carbs.
Being an old carb. rebuilder and carb tuner, mostly for drag race cars
but some bikes too. I would suggest, you not only want the carbs.
cleaned you also want to adjust all the components that can be adjusted.
Any self respecting carb tech. will first take the carb completly apart and
soak all the components in a cleaning solvent for 10 to 12 hours or so.
Then each part is layed out on a very clean surface, I like to refer to it as
surgery, all parts are inspected and readied for assembly. The carb. body
is inspected and all jets and orfices are blown out with low pressure air.
Final assembly begins and all components like float height and drop are
adjusted. I may have missed a few incidentals, but for the most part thats
what the average guy calls carb cleaning. And people wonder why its
so expensive!

 

i emailed him a couple times at the address you gave me and i never heard back from him.

 

Carb service specialist

With over 30 years experience working on carbs from exotic sports cars, SCCA race cars to bikes, and having owned many VFRs, Hawks, VTRs ( and lots of other bikes mostly from the 80s and 90s) over the past 24 years, i feel i'm well qualified to offer carb cleaning and rebuild service to members here.

My service includes careful inspection, ultrasonic cleaning of jets, replacement of any parts found unservicable, blow-out with high pressure filtered air, setting float levels, remove mixture screw seals, precision assembly, bench tests to verify operation, and visual synchronization. Jet kits can be installed also.

Much INexperienced carb cleaning needs to be done again....and again because it takes lots of experience to do the job right the first time, every time.

I aim for less than 2 week turnaround time.

My plan is to have a fully cleaned and ROAD-TESTED set of '94-'97 carbs available on an exchange basis for immediate shipment. Also '86/'87 700/750

Put them in a box and ship. ( I'm willing to help you over the phone to remove and replace.)

If interested, PM me on this site or@ squirrelmanxxjerry@yahoo.com

 

You go Squirrelman,lol
PS- I like everything that you said except using high pressure air. I was told
by one of the great ones never to use high pressure for cleaning
air bleeds and other orifices internal to the carb. eddie

 

I regulate the air to about 60 psi.....won't hurt if you know where to put it.

 

are you taking requests on were to stick the air Squirrel........:biggrin:

Michelle, on a serious note........this is worth it....what squirrel is offering.....he knows his stuff.......

just my two cents....

Crusty

 

i'm going with squirrel.

this local guy had offered to do it at $50 an hour, he says he's been a motorcycle mechanic for 17 years. He came over to look at it, got it running off of carb cleaner, but the way he fumbled though even taking the spark plug out had me worried. then he wanted to take the whole bike home with him to work on it ( i do not know him, i don't know where he lives) granted its an 86 and not worth thousands, but it'd pay his rent for a month and i'd never see him again.

only thing is squirrel isn't here to help me put them back in the bike taking them out involved a lot of swearing... and destruction is always easier than reconstruction...

 

That's the truth. The trick is to to do the Z pattern on Jamie's site (I think it was Jamie). One good forceful push down on the plenum with the boots in the right orientation you're usually good to go.

It's MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to do when the carb boots are fresh and have some flexibility to them. I don't know if you've mentioned it yet, but I would just buy those boots, even if the ones you have aren't cracking, because if the one's you have on there are OEM, they probably will.... the ones I had on my 500 were like trying to use a mummy from a pharoah's tomb to provide an airtight seal... not going to happen.

 

how much do they cost? honda already soaked me on the gaskets for the carbs

and my throttle sticks, and my clutch master cylinder is shot. this is turning into a bigger project than planned... i wanted to be riding by now :frown:

 

I ordered mine through bike bandit, 10 dollars a boot when I ordered.

1986 Honda Motorcycle Parts for VF500F, OEM and Aftermarket at BikeBandit.com

Type "INsulator, carb" in the fiche search. It'll highlight it for you. You need qty. 4.

If the throttle is binding, you need to check your cable routing. if it's sticking like high friction, your cable may be rusted, springs weakened, etc.

The master cyl. probably needs to be bled and it'll be fine.

 

also check your cable housing( the black stuff sround the cable.....I had a sticky throttle and it turned out to be a squished housing.....your clutch....probaby needs a bleed , and your good.

as far as installing the carbs. I will pass on to you(free of charge) some tips that I have learned about reinstalling them.

rule #1 never never never remove the silver (aluminum plate) form the carbsto get them to go that last 1/32 inch you need. removal of this plate will cause your fuel tubes to leak and possibly break.
rule #2 never never never never use a rubber, wooden, metal mallet to "help your carbs onto the insulators.
rule #3take some engine oil and lube the boots(insulators)this will aid in them fitting right back on.
Rule#4 if you have it available, heat your rubber boots to give them pliability with a heat gun.
rule#5 I installed mine front first then rear.....I havent tried Jamies method..... but if he says it works I would believe him.
rule#6 patience is a virtue....If they don't jump on the first try keep at it and dont get pissed off...this is how mallets come into play.......

Good luck

Crusty

 

i don't see anything on the housing of the cable that looks abnormal..... do i replace the cables or put lube in them?

i ordered a "new" master cylinder, i couldn't get all the gunk out of mine. all of the brake fluid had turned to a fluffy puke like material and i couldn't get it out with brake cleaner even.

thanks for the tips guys!

 

Carbs for your diet

I have use this company to buy carb rebuild kits. Here is the link
Carb Kits. I did my Goldwing now the kit has all the parts including the small fuel rail "O" rings, good price and it's a Canadian company that does Ebay and takes Paypal.for payment if you are so inclined.
Hope this helps Mike R..:thumbsup:

plce your mod ans bike year

I donnot work for them just that they are ok..

You can buy Carb cleaner fromNapa or Caqwest.@$30.00 buckst is reusable for many carbs.

 

I had a sticking throttle on my '90 CBR. The linkage at the carbs was clean and snapped back immediately when the cables were disconnected. Then I disconnected the cables at the throttle housing and lubed them until it dripped from the linkage end, no binding or sticking there, either. Then I took the throttle housing off of the clip-on and found a nice thick layer of rust. Sanded the rust off, primed, painted, lubed, and reinstalled the throttle housing. Now it's like having a new throttle; no sticking.

 

i don't know how to do that, but i'm thinking that's going to be the problem. i'll lube up the cables, but the end of the throttle looks like its hit the ground and has dirt lodged in it. just have to figure out how to get the housing off

 

remove the 2 screws holding the switch together, remove either cable down at the carbs and the throttle tube will slide off

 

Yeah, what he said. :thumbsup: Thanks, Squirrelman.

 

carbs are in the mail to squirrel

new (to me) clutch master and slave are installed (although no fluid yet)

throttle is off - cables are lubed, handlebar was rusted. got that sanded.

doing good here!

question of the night:
where is the fuel filter? i can't seem to find one to buy, i don't see where one is located. my tank was rusted, my carbs are goo, i want to change it out, but i can't find it. i looked in the clymer, but i do not see a filter where they say it is.

can someone give me a little direction on where to look, and what filter to buy?

Thanks!!

mess of the day: