Can someone post how to adjust the valves 5th gen?

Thank you Mr. Zen Moto. I do have to change shims on most of the Exhausts. I had to go to the Yamaha shop to get the shims- my Honda dealer is closing and their shim stock was almost an empty box. By the way, these people are so hurting for money right now, no shim swaps around here. I offered the parts person to even a partial swap but no way they held out for $6 a shim. We lost a Kawasaki shop in May , and our Honda/ Suzuki is closing in July.

However, I did learn that Suzuki and Yamaha both use these 7.5mm shims. So right now, all 4 cams are removed. I did remove them last night and followed my instincts and ended up pretty much just like yours. Except I like that radiator on the floor and out of the way. Nice tip there. I did rotate the cams so no lobes were down and I did paint markers on everything.
However, I have downloaded the Honda service manual 3 times from different locations and all of them are missing a few pages in section 8 that remove the cams and bolt them back in. (I dont have a pattern and I am sure that is what you are describing- a pattern to bolt them down evenly. I do have a small torque wrench for 9 ft lb. on the holders. I just need that pattern - If it is just a criss cross like torqueing a head down, I can wing it.

If not, I really need those few pages from the manual. Like I said, I think it is 8-6,7,8,9. I can see 8-10 in the PDF I downloaded.

Also very good info on the cam cover gasket. I was going to use Blue gasket maker since the manuals call for goop in the corners by the half moons. I will just clean and dry them and go for it. (by the way this is a BIG change from my Suzuki and Kawasaki's with their paper gaskets. Lots of Aviation form-a-gasket on them)
Oh, and Micrometers are needed. If you don't have one- then Murphy says the numbers will be worn off - I have 2 shims that are not labeled at all. I didn't have one, I do now.

Now, If I can only get my swingarm as clean as yours was in the photo!!! Naw, impossible!! You went and bought a new one. I know. Good trick.
Actuallly, I will be diving into that area next. The chain is shot too. Thanks again for posting all.

 

I'll check my pdf manual when I get to the office, if I have those pages, I'll be able to email them to you.

 

If the rr has flat fins on it - stock. If the fins are raised in an arc and larger - updated honda unit.
Cheers

 

Ok, so my PDF manual has all the pages. I was wrong though, they don't specify two torque values, just the final value, but state to torque the bolts in steps (I think my KTM specifies actual values along the way.

Either way, I can email you the missing pages (pm me your email address). I can put the whole manual on my FTP server (173 mb, but all the indexes are linked so you can click your way to where you want to go. ...that took a while), or you can just use the copied & pasted text below.

Pages 8-6 and 8-7 talk about moving the radiators, disconnecting the PAIR air tubes etc.. 8-8 just deals with the air joint collars and O-rings, which you don't really need to mess with to do valves. 8-9 deals with the reed valve and the timing mark indicators, which I don't think you need either, but if you do, let me know.

FYI for the below text, camshaft holder A is the main camshaft "bridge" ...the big piece in the center. Camshaft holder B is the smaller piece right next to the gears (with 4 bolts inline, 2 at each gear).

-----------------------------
Removal, page 8-10

Front/Rear:
Loosen the camshaft holder B bolts gradually in several steps and remove each camshaft holder B.
Loosen the camshaft holder A bolts then remove the camshaft holder A and camshafts.
____________________________________________________
CAUTION:
From outside to inside, loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps or the camshaft holder might break.
____________________________________________________

Note:
____________________________________________________
Mark or paint identification for front cylinder or rear.
It is not necessary to remove the dowel pins from the camshaft holders.
____________________________________________________
Remove the joint collars and O-rings from the cylinder head.


Reassembly, page 8-12

Install the camshaft holders and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2 - 3 steps.
NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft when using plastigauge. (the plastigauge is used to check clearances on the actual camshaft holder. ...it's not going to be out of spec, but if it is, you'd need new cams, or new cams plus a new head).

Torque: 12 N-m (1.2kgf-m, 9lbf-ft)

------------------------------------------

Well, I hope this helps. If you want the actual pages, no problem, just shoot me a PM.

 

Alas, My fins are flat on my rectifier. That means an original. From what I have read so far, Honda has a new improved model for the rectifier and there are 3rd parties building replacements and some people just go by a Suzuki r/r. I wonder if the plug is the same on the Suzuki?? While I am torn down, I will go examine the harness. That sounds like it burns up too.

As for the manual, I do have page 8-12 (I know this because you quoted it, Thanks ZM) I don't have 8-11 or 8-10. You didnt mention anything about 8-11 so I assume there is nothing tricky there. It sounds pretty straight forward especially since I marked the cams when no lobes were pushing the lifters. Bolt them down in stages with criss cross pattern. Since they loosened them from OUTSIDE to INSIDE- I will reverse that procedure and in steps, start with the INSIDEs- in steps.

It would probably be good to scan 8-10 and 8-11 and we can get this site to post them up alongside the manual that is on this site. An Addendum. But I had trouble with this and Rubo, who wrote the post in the first place noticed it too.
Hey, really, thanks alot for your help.

It should start going back together tonight. I am changing all the fluids as well so "Buttercup" should be running by the weekend.
PS. so far, its name is "Buttercup". (Bright yellow and the bees are already swarming around it when I washed it.) After its back together and I find redline in a few gears, it may get a new name. But so far, I haven't even explored redline yet.
TC

 

When you were getting quotes did you ask ask specifically for a quote on a valve adjustment or a valve clearance check? There's a big difference in the time required between those two jobs. A clearance check does not involve removing the cams and should be quite a bit less money.

 

No worries, I can extract whatever pages people need, I just need to post them and would rather not host for a million downloads. :smile: ..but I can certainly provide the missing pages.

As for page 8-11, it only covers inspection of the cams themselves and the camshaft holder. These aren't things I've ever done, though I would probably start once the engine gets north of 100k or so. Like I said, if you have out of spec wear on these parts the "cheap" fix is new cams. If that doesn't put them in spec you have to replace the entire head, as the camshaft holder is bored while assembled with the head (which is why you don't want to break one) and you can't just replace it, you have to replace the entire head!

Good luck with your reassembly.

I just heard that my exhaust shipped from Jet-Hot today, so with any luck (and UPS on my side) I should be getting my girl back on the road this weekend as well! :thumbsup:

 

I never worked at a shop that would have taken in a bike that the owner had disassembled, but that was a different economy.

Good luck though.