help bought my first bike

Definitely get a manual, but everything should be so easy. I say if you do your own brakes do not pay someone to do your clutch.
All the clutch requires is that you remove a panel on the side of the engine (no braking the engine in half like a car, there is a clutch cover!), then take off this big disk (pressure plate) that holds the clutch plates in place (five bolts on the PC), slide the old clutch disks out out (there are ten or twelve of two types, "disks" and "plates" alternating: watch what you take out so the new ones go in the same way), slide the new ones in.
Replace the two parts you removed (the pressure plate, and the cover), it should be over in less than an hour, and for around $100 you're on the road. Finer points: the new disks like to be soaked in oil before they go in, and of course you have to remove the engine oil first, also have a new clutch cover gasket ready plus a tool to scrape off the old one (that's the fun part and the only reason why this takes longer than 20 minutes).

So you'll need a manual, new clutch plates, gasket (I think that I used some gasket goo as well), scraper, two wrenches, maybe something pointy to tease that last clutch plate out (it's not fastened in but on my PC it's way back there)... This would be a good opportunity to change the oil/filter as well since the guy who sold it to you was pretty sleazy if he lied about the clutch, who knows how old the oil is, best to get a fresh start (though that's another $30 or $40).

This of course shouldn't be taken as complete instructions: manuals are good to have; but you should be pleased at how easy it is, knock wood.

 

Don't forget to change your oil a couple hundred miles after you change your clutch plates. They have a break-in period where they shed.

 

ok so I took the cover off and drain the oil not is that order but I took the plates off and looked at them and saw one of them had a slight scrape on the little tab that sticks out (i think there are four of them on every other plate)other than that all i could see was there looked like some oil build up on the outer edge of the plates. So i don't know what could be wrong.( should have taken pictures.) I called the local shop ,they charge $60 an hour. does the clutch have anything to do with the timing of the valves. I moved the clutch basket a little and I don't know if I messes it up because it was hard to start after I got it all back together. i do have a repair book to so I can know alittle about it.

 

So far, what you've tried (mechanically) doesn't seem to be working, and its quite possible that you might be making matters worse, including added repair costs due to your best efforts. Take it to a local Honda qualified shop for an inspection/repair estimate. This could be the best $60.00/hour you can spend at this point. (By the way, most Honda service centers charge ~$90.00/hr. for shop time, so get over it.)

Even if you manage to get the bike sorta running after diddling around with it on your own, this certainly doesn't mean that the bike will be in good working order and safe/reliable to ride on the streets as well as on longer rides. We'd hate to see you wad it up because you've been "penny wise and pound foolish". :crazy:

 

I have already made an appointment even before you so called told me to "get over it". was not complaining as much and just declaring! but thanks

 

Dear frustrated new rider, thermostate. Ok, I only wrote it that way, cause by now im sure you are. Ghost never is rude in posts on the internet,… its just too easy to already “read in” your own inflection anyway.

First, don’t get too upset with anyone else from these forums. VFRWorld is a DEEP wealth of information. The posters who tell you to, (being blunt), “go learn how to ride” are not saying this to tell you, “Hey, thermostate, you’re a…(fill in word here)”. Posters from this site are genuinely part of a community. MANY of us will travel several hundred miles just to meet another one. A good example, TOE CUTTER asks where you are located, because if you were close, he would assuredly direct you to his shop, and he would take care of you. These guys and gals, are concerned to have a person on a bike, (new), and simply want to ensure you know the bike, and are safe… that’s all.

Now, down to business. Learning a bike by tearing it down and working on it yourself, IMO, is one of the best ways to understand its operation, and diagnose problems.

Let me summarize your problem a little clearer. You start the bike, hold the break with right hand, pull in clutch lever with left, and as soon as you shift to a gear, the bike goes.
Well, your problem is simple. The fix may be a bit more involved. Your problem is that your clutch system has just enough throw to go into gear, but not enough throw to keep it out of gear. There is a distance shortage between your clutch basket or “sandwich” if you prefer to call it that, and your drive gear. This distance shortage can come from many different reasons… worn seals in clutch cylinder, improperly set clutch lever throw setting, worn or wrong clutch rod, air in the clutch fluid, lack of fluid, a fluid leak, worn clutch disks, broken clutch springs etc etc.

Since you say you are fairly mechanically inclined, and it appears as such too… check out this thread I posted some time back… it’s a “How to” work on a clutch system for these older bikes, and a step of order from simplest to difficult solutions.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/22592-ghost-says-let-s-learn-about-clutches.html

Now, going forward. Please go through this thread well, perhaps even print it out, and check off the items after you are 110% certain that particular item is NOT the problem.

I make one request… TAKE PICTURES! Seriously, its hard enough to troubleshoot an engine problem over the internet. Photobucket is easy to set up. Get a camera, take LOTS of photos, and post them.

Good luck, keep us up to date!
Ghost

 

your right im sorry I was not trying to be mean. Any who I made an appointment to hav eit looked at sometime soon.