Cost for Paint Job?

Anyone here have general numbers for what a factory quality repaint of a full fairing bike would cost?

The reason I ask is that I'm shopping for a VFR and I don't like some of the colors, but if a repaint is reasonable, I can avoid limiting my search.

Thanks!

 

depends what you are looking for, I have seen single color for $500 and multi for upwards of $1000. You may want to surf craigslist in your area, I have seen a lot of paint shops and out of work painters advertising looking for work offering pro quality jobs cheap...

 

Paint

It's not going to be cheap,; you'd be looking into the $1500-2,000 range depending on shop etc.

 

i got mine done for $300
of course i did all the prep work, had it in primer ready to shoot.

and my paint job is top notch.

 

I'd do it for $300 plus cost of paint

 

One of the guys I was riding with this weekend just had his painted. 2 colors with a small stripe seperating them. Cost was $1200 for everything. I'm sure there are deals out there but most of the guys I've talked to want close to a grand for a custom job. I'm talking full prep, two colors, plus clear coat. Now with the econ the way it is and some painters hurting for work you may be able to find a good deal. Just remember a quality job is going to take some man hours to complete.

Action

 

Here is my opinion!!!!
Life is short and often we are not pushed to explore new ideas,skills etc and we are used to paying for this paying for that.Often times what you pay would cost in fraction if you do it yourself.
For example.
Buy decent paint gun =$75-120
air compressor 5 gallon $300 (now this can be used on multiple tasks including house use)
Paint-200 max
Sandpaper 50 max

If you have the compressor fine deduct 300! Now either way you are looking around 500 max (you can do it around 300)
but there is nothing more satisfying then accomplishing this and bragging to your friends!!
I did a 15 min search and found Tons of tips for prep and paint.
Trust me DO IT YOURSELF!and BE PROUD!

 

One G bugs me

I've been quoted a thousand, too. And that is for a cycle without a fairing.
Tank comes off, side covers come off. Fenders come off. Little or zero taping. Surface area is 1/10th of a car. Where do they get a thousand?
I've been waiting to meet someone in the biz, take off the parts myself, fill and sand them, and then drop them off for a week. If that costs me more than 200 cash, then they can suck it. I hope they all go out of business.

 

If you are really wanting a "factory quality" paintjob on a VFR, expect to pay a minimum of a grand. In some cases just the paint can cost that much.

If you are talking about a repaint on a brand new VFR, then prep will be fairly easy, if someone skilled does the removal and reassembly of all the various parts to be painted. If the VFR is 20 years old then expect more prep. Lots more!

As much as I would like to tell you to run out and buy a cheap gun and a compressor from Walmart and do this yourself, do some more homework. This type work requires a spraybooth and personal protection. Automotive paints can fry you.

An option is to buy a bike with a pleasing base color and just paint some of the pieces in a complimentary or anagalous color. All sorts of graphics can be applied over the stock paint also. This includes hand striping or lots of shit like skulls and stuff like that..

 

cost of a paint job

Guys,
Come on now....redmenace you need therapy....hope they go out of business...You have never spent time in their shoes....First and foremost paint alone is expensive...I know I just finnished a base coat clear coat job on a classic GS850G tank, 2 side covers, a tail section and a front fender.
I used PPG paint from start to finnish, to the tune of near $500. and am very satisfied with the results.
For a home paint job setting up a place to paint in is not cheap especially considering you will be taking down your walls after you get through. We did the job under a shade tree....sure did....4 coats of base paint and total 8 coate of clear..and yes there is a bit of trash from being out of doors....nothing that can't be sanded out and polished to a great shine.
This work is expensive when you buy top of the line products and to achieve the end result takes a talented professional that DOES NOT WORK for free.....just don't expect them to.....$200 dollar paint job...yeah sure if you want a rattle can or rustloeum on your bike....economy not withstanding if you want your bike to look as good as factory or better it would be wise to count on a grand minimum.... In fact many of the cruiser guys don't even balk at $2k.....I hate coming here a relatively new member and seeing posts like this.....I'd think that fellows that ride as sophisticated a bike as the VFRs are would have understanding of tecnologically advanced skills as paint work..
Like I said if you want a $200 paint job get some stuff down at advance auto or wal mart......but if you want a paint job you can have real pride in...you are going to have to step up to the pump....I have spent a small fortune on an old GS850g that I have owned for almost 30 years and by the time I get it reassembled it will look as a new bike....better than new.....
I just got a new/used '99 VFR in red ......I think it would look very good in the Pearl Yellow.....who knows but I know that if I start with quality products I'll have a quality job I can show off and be proud of..... $200 paint job my aching a@s*
Rodm850g

 

Dude, that just flat isn't true. If you're going for show quality, yeah, it's gonna cost you. But if you just want something nice and shiny that looks good you can certainly do it for $200 or less. A painter may realize it isn't all that great but the average person (and even the average rider) will think it looks fantastic. I personally would rather spend a small amount on a pretty good looking paint job then a fortune on a show quality job.

 

LOL! Never was happy being average. Different strokes I guess.

Relating to the topic question, the premise was a "factory quality" paint job. While true, two hundred bucks will buy nearly as many cans of rattlecan paint from WalMart and to digress some, it ain't bad and I think it's made by Sherwin-Williams, the paint can easily be two hundred. Let's use an example. Go to HouseofKolor.com online shopping from the worldwide leader in the paint and coatings industry. and download the PDF catalog. What you will find is a variance in prices even in "regular" colors. Some are way more than others. Next, hit a NAPA store. They carry Martin-Senour. Two quarts of one color each for my 91 plus hardner plus clearcoat plus hardner was over a hundred bucks.

Now just for grins, multiply five bucks by 256.

Where: Five bucks is the average cost of a half oz. bottle of nail polish depending on whether it's from Wally's or Neiman Marcus and 256= 1 gallon/.5oz.

"Show quality is something else again. A friend of mine is painting a chopped and channeled 1934 Rolls-Royce Coupe with a 4.9 litre Ferrari V12 in it. Paintjob is going to run fifteen grand or more.

 

Look guys we are in rescission! Unless you got $$$ coming then DIY

Here is what I found to be logical steps.
1.) Make any and all repairs to plastics, reinforce if necessary. Tiger Hair works VERY WELL.
2.) Remove any dents, use Bondo where necessary. Try to keep Bondo thickness to less than 1/4", ideally 1/16th" (to prevent cracking).
3.) Sand parts with 220 grit paper all over, or use a scuff pad to rough it up. This is so that the primer can adhere to the paint. Use caution on plastics, as deep scratches will show through the paint.
4.) Paint part(s) with sandable primer. Do several medium coats over the course of 1 1/2 - 2 hours.
5.) Wait over night for primer to dry and then dry sand the part(s) with 320 grit, almost back down to original layer of paint/metal.
6.) Re-apply another relatively heavy coat of sandable primer, repeat step 5, but use 600 grit paper and a lighter touch. The goal is to have the part as smooth as possible before color goes on it.
7.) Clean the part with a prep wipe (I use Dupli-Color), wait for it to dry.
8.) Apply a light, even coat of color to the part(s). Wait overnight for it to dry.
9.) Add additional coats until the part looks "finished" when wet.
10.) Wet sand the part with 1000 grit sand paper. Again, glassy smoothness is what we're attempting to achieve. If you didn't sand through to primer anywhere (watch those edges!!!) you should be ready for clearcoat.
10a.) Do one more SMOOTH coat of color if painting a "flaky" metallic finish, try to do one VERY EVEN coat from a VERY WELL shaken can.
11.) Apply your first coat of clearcoat. TRIPLE CHECK that the clear coat is compatible with the color coat. Try to stay within a certain brand, here, i.e. Dupli-Color color and Dupli-Color clearcoat. Try to make teh first coat realtively light and even. Add another coat after about 30 minutes, or the clear coat is no longer excessively tacky.
12.) Wait at least 24 hours and wet sand the part(s) with 1500 grit paper.
13.) Use a prep-wipe to get any and all residue off the parts(s). Allow to dry.


14.) Lay down another smooth coat of clearcoat, followed by another coat in about 20 minutes. Allow part(s) to dry for 24-48 hours.
15.) Wet sand part(s) with 2000 grit paper. When you are finished, the part will have an even sheen to it when wet, and have a "matte" finishe when dry.
16.) Using a wax pad, and 3M rubbing compound, hand polish the part(s) to a factory gloss - heavy pressure is not necessary. Follow this up with a high quality automotive-specific polish, then a carnuaba based wax. A couple of coats of wax may be necessary for the shine you are looking for. I use Meguiar's with excellent results.

 

Thanks for the awesome post, Rubo. I printed it out for future reference. I think it should be stickied!

 

A little knowledge is said to be a dangerous thing
sand with 220 if you want scratches showing through your dupli color paint job...
should be like 360 -400 grit paper .....
primer to really do a good job ought to be epoxy "hi build" two part primer...plus catalyst,
good thing about this is that it is sandable in like two to three hours.....sand til smooth
clean and ready for sealer don't leave out this step.....is a catalyst mix as well and sets up to touch in short time......use clean "tack rag" between each coat.....using the 600 grit is not rough enough for PROPER adhesion...if its a base coat clear coat apply at least three coats with time between each coat time to "tack" up...if you touch near where the item is and the product doesn't pull "strings" of the product up.....lightly use the tach rag between each coat.....the base coatwill be all but a flat finnish almost looking abraisive.....
Apply your clear coat and use technique checking for "tack" between coats.....
ideal time for automotivre paint to handle with this finish is about two to three hours...warning paint will be "green",not completely hard...small parts will be set up in a few hours....tanks panels to be handles safley 4-5 hours....after aplication....
WARNING
The dupli coors are laquer based and "premixed" are suceptable to gas and almost any other chemical...so if you want to go through all this posted above to get a fillup and aruined paint job because of a drop or two of gas...or anyother chemical do this.....I'l put my finish once cured against any duplicolor job...however long you cure it.....Good luck If anyone has aspirations to do this kind of a project go to an automotive paint store
and ask for guidance.......I don't want to start aI'm better than you gig but puttin stuff out that might or might not work or last is easily avoidable by consulting with professionals.....my insight on this topic is from growing up in the home of a professional autobody repairman and being his apprentice for about 5 years and then working in the field almost 10 years on my own..... as well as in painting.....Good luck on paintin projects..it can be done at home just get some pro help....
Rod

 

Well, don't forget there are varying levels of acceptability for different people.

For me, I'm happily riding around right now with the wrong color rear fairings and primer-only side fairings. I doubt much else will happen until I move into a place with a garage... Until then it looks beautiful to me.

 

Defining Terms, I agree with most of what you say

A factory or showroom paintjob is virtually unattainable because the manufacturer starts with bare material, and has heat lamps and has conditions that you really can't duplicate without building a professional/industrial painting operation. Yes, you can spend as much time and money as you want to get the finish you want. God bless you, and the spectrum of cost and customers is from infinity to zero (infinity= the job that is never done right after spending all your money. I know people that have spent infinite amounts of cash and time on something that will never match the standards in their heads:crazy Having said that, we don't disagree on anything.:smile::smile::smile::smile::smile::smile:
My two bodywork experiences that formed my opinion:
Had a 10 year old Civic in Miami Sun faded. Found a Haitian brother who worked in a body shop. He did it in his back yard for 800, I think. Might have been 600 (mid 90's a blur) Fixed a fender, and just matched the Honda Charcoal Black, but all over. There were some dimples and there was a little overspray on the lenses, but I was happy. From 10 feet away it looked like new. Put your hands on it and look close at different angles and it looked a little off. Sold it 4 years later for 3500.
Second experience: Got hit by a guy, he's paying the whole bill, insists I go to a good shop. I go to pick it up. I have to wait for the 3 people in front of me to bitch and complain and go over their cars with a lens, and then tell the customer service guy to take it back and do it again. I get the keys, don't even inspect the work, and head home. There are 3-4 more jag-offs waiting after me to punish this poor car hop.The work is great, flawless.
Now, I'm under the impression that a bonded, professional shop with well traained and thorough workers has got to price the job in order to make up for all the dingbats who want to gouge out a free paint job from a fender bender. Color and finish are pretty subjective!
These are car experiences. I stick by the assessment that a motorcycle is not even close to the labor level of cars. You can put the pieces on a workbench and turn them any way you want! You don't need a paint booth! You need a paint box (cardboard). By the way, I did not advocate doing it yourself. Investing in the tools for a one-time only job is probably not wise.
My last opinion (opinion, Brother) is that I"m tired of talk about the economy and the recession and trades and businesses who won't strike a deal. You have a choice between no business or some business. You have a choice between lowering your prices by 20% or filing for bankruptcy. I didn't wish slow stomach cancer on them, I only said, let them fall in a free-market economy.
Before you accuse me of being an enemy of the working man- I've been a professional in the electrical trade at one time, been in a union for 10 years (not the IBEW), and am currently working in a small venture business (hanging on to our asses). I know how the economy works, and I know how much things cost.:smile:

 

To Rodm850g, I am with you brother,the other day we had a similar situation about painting some vfr side cases and a small trunk that goes behind the seat. The guy said he would do it for $150 and I thought it was a very ,very low price. Most of the guys
said the price sounded legitimate,just didnt sound good to me.Another local painter does pretty good work on sport bikes . He charges $200 for each piece of plastic and the same for the tank. I believe the 2000 VFR has including tank six pieces ,so at $200
each it would be $1200 dollars. Now that sounds about right to me. My nephew just
painted all the plastic and tank on my 2000 VFR ,he provided free labor ,I know he had at least 20-30 hours in it,especially with all the bodywork .His boss required me to pay for all materials.The charge for materials and they were at cost, was in the high two hundred dollar range. So when these guys get or think they should get complete paint jobs for a couple hundred
bucks I think they are a slight bit wacky. eddie

 

Well said. THIS is the reason, IMO, that I can't get an old 1996 Civic repainted, anywhere. I'm trying to tell the guys I don't need a flawless paint job. Just sand it and spray it. I don't care if a rust spot cracks the paint in 6 months. I just want a "Haitian guy" paint job for $1.5k. But I'm told by several shops that there's no one in NC that will even consider doing a paint job for less than 3,000 and up. Well, when you get up to that price range, then you start expecting some better results... and more headaches for the painter, etc.

Another problem with paint jobs is they take up a lot of space. If the shop has easier ways to earn money, that space costs money, by itself. The space is taken up the whole time while the car is prepped and drying. As long as they get the occasional insurance paid job they can gouge, they don't need to take on anything less profitable. It's sorta like the health care industry. The costs are inflated by the widespread use and misuse of insurance, IMO, and free market supply and demand goes out the window. Also they get geared to do things to one set of industry standards to the point that's now the only way they can do it, anymore.

Anything I can do myself, I will. Soon as I buy/rent a house with a garage, an air compressor is one of the first things on my shopping list, along with a welding machine. Anyone who doesn't have one, already... why not!?

 

Thanks to Larry, Moe and Curly for the painting lessons. I am now open for business. Any bike, any color for $19.95.