Cooling Mod

that's the best idea!!! Switch the fan before it gets too hot.I often get stock in traffic and start getting real nevous watching that temp go 200 210 225!! and me
I hate that...
Could you post how you did it?

 

rubo, i added a very simple 2 position switch to control the fan on my G1.

off = totally stock automatic fan operation.
on = manual fan control to turn fan on NOW :thumbsup:

if i am coming into stop and go area, i just switch to fan ON before the temp even starts to rise.

when i add a switch to my new G5, i will get a nicer switch with an indicator lite to give a visual indication that the fan is ON as a mode reminder.

it was maybe $5 for a switch and some decent wire, and took maybe an hour to install the setup on the 1st bike. im sure the actual install would take less then 30 min for the 2nd install. i mounted the switch on the upper left fairing "cover" plate on the G1. i have not yet decided on a location for the G5 as this bike is brand new to me.

 

Hi Rubo,
Abner's system is a very good one. Mine is less elaborated because Fan Thermoswitch (on the radiator) was faulty. So, this is the way I built my manual switch :
1. Disconnect wire from the thermoswitch (it is a +) (the fan takes ground on the rad body).
2. Connect a wire with a male plug (about 10 cm) to the wire above (point 1)
3. Connect the other end of the wire to an unipole switch (on/off), (shape and color at your desire)
4. Connect another 10 cm wire (check this lenght) at the other end of the switch.
5. The wire at point 4. will be grounded (I grounded it under a screw fixing a cover existing bertween tank and left side fairing).
6. Put the switch well in the left fairing hole so that you can reach it but it will be hidden and out of the reach of the rain....
That's all. Of course my original thermoswitch is there on the rad without connection.
When you turn off the ignition key the fan will be stopped anyway.
Good job ! Ciao,
Carmine

 

What is considered normal operating temperature?

What is considered hot ?

 

Temps

My 01 runs 178-190 on the highway, but quickly goes up in stop and go traffic. The highest I've ever seen is 230, but apparently the danger zone is 250 or so.

Does the 3 row cooler from a vtec vfr easily fit?
Or is a big job?
Anyone?

 

Mine runs 190-195 on the HWY .

 

I got a 01 RC51 5pass oil cooler coming. Gonna replace the three pass one on my 99.
We shall see...

 

airflow is a funny thing. you need to be careful.

There is a real science to air flow dynamics. Just by adding another vent, it doesn't mean you will get more airflow. The low-high pressure thing is complicated.

 

Most oil coolers have a thermostat so that they only cool at a predetermined temp. FWIW.

 

I forget where but I've seen integrated solutions before with the cooler and thermostat in one. I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to find an inline oil thermostat rated to a desired temperature, I would think almost any inline oil thermostat would work, given that the ideal temperature of oil doesn't change too significant between motors of similar displacement and orientation.

My FZ1 has a quasi-integrated solution, heat from the cooler is exchanged with the coolant (there is no radiator like oil cooler, just a heat exchanger unit that acts as a cooler), this keeps the cooling system as minimal and efficient as possible. Since the thermostat for the coolant opens at 160 degrees, the oil temperature would be mildly above coolant (though i haven't confirmed this with a thermometer), as far as I know there is no thermostat and I don't think it would need one. Though, my bike does run warmer than a VFR with 2 radiators and an oil cooler.

 

I have been researching on how to address the low-speed, high temp heat soak issues also.

I've noticed running under 20 mph around in State Parks just cruisin, that the VFR gets so hot, that the motor seems to run a little rougher. Temps I see in 1st and second gear, between 2 and 3,000 rpm are normally sustained around 200-220 degrees. That's pretty damn hot!!

I found a member here that mentioned an 89 Honda Civic Thermistor for the Radiator Fan activated at between 180 and 190 degrees. Much lower then the VFR's. I was thinking about picking up a used one out of a salvage yard and trying it out one day. And, if needed, you can test them in a pan of water over the stove with an ohmeter just to validate it's age and that it is switching closed at the correct temp.

I was also thinking about a second smaller fan on the right radiator, but there is only 1-1/2" clearance between the radiator and the forward cylinder head. Even though 3 inches of the radiator to the front at available - that still really doesn't leave a lot of room to work with. So that idea is kinda shot.

The other members said water wetter drops temps - but the problem isn't the coolant, it's getting air across the fins at low speed. So it's a fan issue. The best solution sounds like the lower temp thermoswitch or a manual bypass switch.

Another thing I've been thinking of was to run an electric water pump. These will run I beleive at a set flow rate, and possibly variable - which means it's not RPM dependant and turning off the motor. So you get more coolant flowing through the radiators at lower road speeds. Also you get quicker engine response, and a tad more horsepower because the available wattage from the alternator is being used to drive it that is otherwise translated in heat and radiated off by the R/R. They also have controllers that replace the thermistor function and allow you to dial in the temp setting for activation. But increasing airflow is still mandatory.

An option I found to cool the oil is a Cool Collar from JC Whitney - it's like a finned collar that goes around the oil filter to help radiate off heat. You can also look at putting finned metal on the left side of the oil pan, and just off the forward cylinder head at the valve cover. Both areas have airflow. I would say to avoid putting them on the bottom of the motor - because then you would be sinking in heat from the headers to the oil pan.

Just some things I have been researching into I thought I'd mention.

 

Another thought on low speed cooling.
My fan pulls air in from the outside through the radiator into the front area by the headers. While this air is cooler, it is flowing backwards compared to the air flow generated at speed. I have noticed I need to be going 45-55 mph to get the temp down on a hot day. If you put your hand down by the rad you can feel the heat coming off the rad when the fan shuts off and the flow reverses. I've thought about rewiring the fan to spin backwards, but I'm sure there are other reasons not to.

Maybe just get rid off all the cars and I'll be fine!!!!!

 

Are your guys bikes really running THAT hot? If I'm sitting at a light on a hot day I'll hit 215 no problem. The bike doesn't consider itself overheating until 260 FWIW. I only have one radiator and my oil cooling system trades heat with the coolant, my bike runs HOT.

Cooler is great if you can keep it right above the point that the thermostat opens, but overcooling presents its own problems.

But, here's a part that you guys might be interested in that I remember seeing from the Supercharged VFR thread, it's pretty much the same principle as my stock oil cooler.

A&A Performance - Oil Cooler

It's actually MADE for the VFR!

 

The oil cooler link is cool (ha ha), and I've thought about a oil/coolant cooler. I want to see what temp my oil is running before I went that far. If I could find an cheap used 3 row oil/air cooler I'd do that first.
What concerns me is that when I'm stuck in traffic on a hot day the temp seems to climb and the fan doesn't bring it down. (220 up to 230 in 15 min - with the fan running the whole time)
It was a good 20 min at 45 - 55 before it came down below 210.
Maybe this is typical and I need to stop worrying about it.
My bike has 73k miles on it and I'm sort-of wondering what the upper limit is before bad things happen.
Thanks for the link

 

The oil cooler would actually make your coolant run hotter, the cooler relies on the radiator to cool the oil ultimately. Sorry, by my post I seemed to suggest it'd do otherwise.

At 73k I would expect your thermostat would need to be replaced/coolant changed. I've got 200ccs and 30HP more than the VFR and I've NEVER seen temps over 220. Not to mention my sole radiator is about the of one of the VFRs 2 and I have no dedicated oil cooler. I don't recally derstuka's or scubalong's bikes running that hot either.

At freeway speeds on the coldest of nights I hover at about 163. On hot days maybe 185.

 

I have a new thermostat and I'll flush the coolant again and I'll let you know.
Thanks again