chain/ sprkt repl. w/pics

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by v4pwr, Apr 4, 2008.

  1. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    all the following was done on 4th gen all other gens should be similar. i performed evrything w/ bike on centerstand except final chain tensioning which is done on kickstand. i replaced stock parts with 15 tooth front 45 tooth rear and 114 link rk chain which i had to end up making 113 links to get proper chain slack. A WORD OF ADVICE , when i ordered my chain tool i also ordered an extra master link which as fore mentioned i ended up needing.
    i used the rk chaintool #uct4060, i found the best price at sprocket center.com
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    first thing to do is remove L/ side fairing using a 5 mm hex socket for the screw and screwdriver for lower dzeus clips(just turn 90 deg to release), dont forget the ones in front cover behind frt wheel. then remove lower L/ side cover.ther are 2 bolts , one is hiding behind the kickstand ans there are 2 phillips on very bottom. next remove chain guard screws (2) and remove brake hose from clips . the very rear retainer for the brake hose will flex a bit to get the hose out of the track
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    remove speedo sensor (2 bolts 8mm) , secure aside. them 3 bolts from clutch slave cyl. (3 bolts 8mm) note lenghts when removing. the slave is doweled to side cover so some gentle prying and wigging is reqired.

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    secure speedo and slve to the side. according to manual to keep air from getting in clutch gently sqeeze clutch and secure it to handle once slave is removed

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    remove bolts from side sprocket cover and remove. this is also doweled like slave cyl.
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    loosen rear axle pinch bolt and using tool loosen rear chain adj.
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    next install tool per directions. and break chain link apart.(im not being specific here since i dont know what kind of breaker everyone is using). i can tell u with the rk if u follow the directions there is no need to grind off the heads of the staked area before pushing it through. this tool i used is basically fool proof if u use hand tools.
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    next i removed front and rear sprockets. for the front i put it in gear and removed sprocket. it will just slide right off. then removed the rear using
    14mm socket and 6mm hex key . the hex key is to hold backside of bolt.
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    install new front and rar sprocket torquing all rear nuts and front bolt to 24 ft/lbs(and yes i did clean all that old grease out befor i put everything back together)
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    put bike back in neutral and roll chain onto sprockets. install new orings on master link and insert from behind chain. put new orings on exosed pins of master and push on side plate if possible. { i tried taking pics of this but i have a crappy camera as u can see so i was unable to put any clear pics up for this part}. following directions of the install tool,press on side plate until tool stops and the end of master link pins protrude from sideplate. then install press pin adapters into tool and press link pins to round them over. the tool will pretty much stop u before u overtighten them.here are some pictures of how the adapters look against the chain when u are using it on the bike.( i took these off the bike to try and give somewhat of an idea of what to look for.
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    if you have a dial caliper the rivet head should be uniform in appearance and measur appr. 5.5-5.8mm across the pressed area. the following pic was the best i could do to show it complete. if u look close the middle link is the master. you can kinda see the center of the pins are hollow and they are rounded over.
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    [​IMG]

    I really appoligize for the poor pics, if i had a better camera i would have tried to get a clearer pic.

    once i had chain riveted i put bike on the kickstand and adjusted chain so there was 5/8"-1" of slack in middle of lower part of the chain. torque pinchbolt down to 40 ft/lbs. and recheck chain slack.

    then the rest is just reversing removal:
    #install sprocket cover and tighten bolts evenly to draw cover back on dowel pins.
    #install clutch slave and start bolts by hand the relaese clutch handle the was secured earlier, then tighten bolts down evenly
    # install speedo sensor and tighten 2 bolts.
    # install chain guard noting bolts, the bolt with the locating shoulder goes in the rear.


    SPEEDO HEALER INSTALL
    i was able to locate the newest speedohealer v4 which is very small and easy to install. simply find speedo connection on L/side under the seat and plug in the jumper . the speedo connector is an flat 3 wire connector and is located at the bottom of the connector junction see in pics

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    i the ran the wire up to where i placed the control unit and secured wiring using provided zip ties.
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    programming is very simple. go to the website and input the reqired info and it gives you the procedure for proramming. its very easy inputing the programming. thie whole install for the healer was about 10 min.

    AND FINALLY last but not least lube the new chain following the instrutions on your chosen lube .

    as i said before i apologize for some of the poor pics. i tried my best with what i had. hopefully this might help some people a better understanding of how to do this!
     
  2. SLOVFR

    SLOVFR Member

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    Great write up! now we need to get it into the wiki!
     
  3. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    i have no idea about the wiki or the power it posses, or how to access it:tongue:
     
  4. SLOVFR

    SLOVFR Member

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  5. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    oohh i see the power of the wiki is great!!:smile:
    thanks for putting it in
     
  6. StuMayhem

    StuMayhem New Member

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    I just ordered a 15 tooth front and stock rear with my new chain. How do you like the smaller front? Also, I am confused about the need for a speedo healer on a 4th gen. Doesn't the speedo get it's info from the wheels?
     
  7. joshbea6

    joshbea6 New Member

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    now we need to work on getting someone the instructions on the "macro" setting on the camera for close-ups.

    great writeup!
     
  8. Comicus

    Comicus New Member

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    fdskljafsdj
    :biggrin:
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2009
  9. Comicus

    Comicus New Member

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    And yes I am crazy
     
  10. CrazyInNYC

    CrazyInNYC New Member

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    113 links? :confused:



    :crazy: This man is an imposter! :crazy:
     
  11. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    i cant really say with just a change in the front, i did down 1 in the front and up 2 in the rear. it did seem to make it mare riseable in the city streets but i picked up about 500 rpm on the highway, 6000@65mph. fuel economy did go down but i don't really care that much. as far as the speedo healer on my bike the speedo is electric and is driven off the front sprocket bolt. if you look at the second picture just to the right of the clutch slave cyl is a 2 bolt sensor with a wire. thats the speedo a/c signal generator
     
  12. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    that was th eproblem with the camera i was using at the time. it has no macro setting. i got a new one that now has macro, but that doesn't really help now. sorry
     
  13. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    hey what can i say. with 114 there was way too much slck even with the rear adjuster at its limit. i dropped out a link and it is right on the money. i,ve but close to a 1500 miles on it and its still just fine. only thing i can figure is that o.e is 112 links by dropping 1 in the front and going up 2 in the rear i have only gained one extra tooth (112-1=111/ 111+2=113) so only one extra link needed. now if i would have stayed stock up front and added 2 to the rear the 114 would have worked fine.
     
  14. deepdish

    deepdish Banned

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    ouch down one in front and up 2 in back? thats like raising 7 in back yeppers chain might need adjusting.. just curious why not raise 3 in back that should have been a nice low gear without losing top end? now your bike can go about 135 topped out??:confused:
     
  15. SLOVFR

    SLOVFR Member

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    UM, A little mis-counting going on here...you cant have an odd number of links as there are 2 links per unit.....SO sorry there is no 113. If you added on a (link) to the stock then you have 114 links total.
     
  16. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    it seemed to be the popular swap from searches on the net, giving it a overall gear ratio of 3:1. i really don't care about top speed, i need my license .
     
  17. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    o.k my mistake i thought a link only consisted of 1 plte and 1 roller. sorry. nevertheless it works good
     
  18. BIGRHINO

    BIGRHINO New Member

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    Changed mine out today on the 6th gen.

    Thanks without your write up with the pics I may not have tried it.

    Everything went resonably well even taken the front sprockt cover off 3-4 times those little dowel pins kept falling out. I thought I had it the first then saw the dowl pin for the top on the ground. The second time I saw the dowl pin for the bottom on the ground. (AAAAARRRRGGG!!!!!). FInally got all the dowl pins in and damnit. Forgot to torque the front sprocket since I sill had it on the center stand I just snugged it. Off again for one final repeat of the process witht he front sprocket torqued. (AAAHHHHH!!!) Tightened up the rear sprocket and tourqued them up. With the chain tension set up and pinch bolt tight I fired the bike up on the center stand for a dry run. All was well. Held the front break for a just in case of an uht oh kicked it in 1st and spun the wheels a bit. Thing still looked good so I suited up and took it fora spin around the block. Right as rain....
    I used the same chain cut and rivit tool which worked well.:thumbsup:
     
  19. v4pwr

    v4pwr New Member

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    i'm glad it gave you the chance to try it yourself. i don't know if you know this but i do believe that your chain needs to be tensioned on centerstand not sidestand. might want to check owners manual.
     
  20. StuMayhem

    StuMayhem New Member

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    I did mine last weekend. I went -1 in front, stock rear. I don't have a chain rivet tool, so I used a grinder, and then flared the rivets with a phillips head and a C clamp. I took it to the local shop as soon as I could and asked them to help with the rivets. They brought out their tool and got it done in about 2 min. Great place. Feels like a different bike now. I have a 96 with about 40K miles, 3rd owner. When I bought it, the guys said it was the original chain. Thanks for the instructions.
     
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