Couple Fork Seal Questions

I'm getting ready to do the fork seals on my bike (85 VF1000R) as one of them is leaking a fair amount. I have the OEM Honda oil seals and dust seals on order and I'm just trying to get everything in order to make it as quick and painless a process as I can.

My main question is what have people used as a seal driver? I see what the Honda one looks like from my manual, and obviously I don't have that tool, so what can I use to improvise? I've heard some people mention using PVC pipe? What size and how long? Any other methods?

My second question is. Should I use "fork oil", and if so what weight? Or should I use the factory manual's recommended ATF? I've been hearing fork oil, so that's what I was planning on, but I don't know what weight to get. I've also got to get a measuring device marked out in cc's so I can accurately measure the oil I put back in the forks.

Any additional thoughts and/or advice on this project is very much appreciated.

Thanks!

-Paul

 

You can get a little kit from your local cycle gear or retailer that comes with the syringe tube and everything making this part real easy.

 

When I did my fork seals last summer I used my lathe to bore a piece of nylon tube for the right ID. It didn't matter because the seals really aren't that tight a fit. I was expecting some kind of press fit that would need a special tool but the closest size PVC conduit would work just fine.

 

Just use a piece of pipe, metal or pvc. Put the new seal in then put the old on top of it. It will act as a driver and if any damage happens it will be to the old seal. Then remove old seals and install covers.

I use 10w fork oil. ATF is a tad light.

 

+1 on the 10wt oil. Use the PVC as it won't scratch the fork tubes. It doesn't need to be an exact fit, use the old seals and pound away. Do check the tubes carefully for any pits or scratches and use some emery paper to smooth things down if needed. Are you changing out the fork springs or adjusting the preload any? I'd recommend it, it can make a huge difference in the handling.

 

examine the upper and lower bushings while you're in there. on old, high-mile bikes a worn upper bushing can cause an oil leak.

 

Thanks for all the help so far everyone!! For now I'm just doing the seals, but I will probably do some modification/upgrading of the suspension down the road. I have plans for what I want to do to the bike, but right now I just want to ride it and enjoy it as is. It just turned 18,000 miles, I was thinking that was *relatively* low mileage (average of 750 miles per year), but I will look everything over when I take it apart. Hopefully it will be a straightforward repair!

-Paul

 

Finally got the fork seals done the end of last week. I took it slow, but was able to use the 2-post lift at work to strap the bike up with. Made it pretty convenient to work on! I got a syringe which I used to fill the forks, then quadruple checked the level (7.1" down from the top of the tube with it fully compressed) before I re-assembled everything. It all seems to be fine and the forks aren't leaking anymore, but the front suspension seems softer than it was before. There seemed to be some air pressure in the forks before I took them apart, but I don't know how much. I tried putting some back in to see if it helped but the stiffness didn't change until I got up to about 20 psi. Don't worry I DIDN'T LEAVE 20 PSI IN THE FORKS! LOL. It was just a temporary diagnostic. I have like 5 psi in them now, but I'd rather have 0 psi, after doing some reading here on the boards. The springs checked out OK at 17" when I had them out of the forks, and the bushings looked good too. I guess my only concern is the softness of the front forks. Should they be 1/4-1/2 compressed when the bike is sitting at rest?

I know I should do suspension upgrades front and rear, and I plan to when money and time allow. Right now I just want the bike to be rideable and safe so I can enjoy it this summer...

Thanks!!

-Paul