problems with my 83 vf750f

I'd top it off, then SLOWLY pump the clutch a few times, then you should feel it begin to work. My Sabre does this every now and then, and I simply refill it. After a few slow pumps, it returns to normal. You might look for a leak if it does it again. BTW...Paint+brake fluid = a new paint job!

 

if the refill solves the problem avoid bleeding for now.....didn't you inspect this stuff on your new bike??

 

this is my first bike, i'm at the total beginner phase, so no i didn't check. it may be that i have a leak. though nothing is dripping out the bottom

i got the dot 4 fluid from honda just now and filled the reservoir next to the left handgrip, it was maybe a few teaspoons of fluid.. i pumped the clutch very slowly a few times. then i started her up and the problem persisted. when i spoke to the guy at honda, he said that if there's an air bubble in the line, topping off won't help. so it looks like bleeding is the next step. i saw a step by step here:

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0110_askthegeek/index.html

anyone have any opinions/tips concerning this?

 

Let it sit overnight with the cover loose, then pump it several times with the cover on, but loose. I'd bleed it at the banjo bolt before moving to the bottom. Air likes to sit in the banjo bolt.

 

Lots of riders who never have a problem bleeding brakes do have problems getting a good clutch bleed..........it seems.

 

eddie valley trailer.. is the banjo bolt why you changed your avatar to a banjo? it made me laugh. is the banjo bolt the thing down lower on the bike, but above the sign that says hydraulic clutch, the thing on top of that with the rubber cap?

 

The "banjo bolt" is where the line comes out of the master cyl (up near the clutch handle). It's under a little rubber boot and looks like a banjo. Simply pull the clutch in, HOLD IT IN, then loosen the bolt until fluid (and air) comes out. Have a rag handy to catch the fluid and BE SURE to keep all fluid off of the paint. Tighten the bolt, then release the clutch. Repeat a few times until only clear fluid comes out. This is why a clutch is harder to bleed than brakes. Air seems to get trapped in this bolt. No amount of bleeding from the lower bleeder will get the air out of the banjo bolt. A lot of time bleeding the banjo bolt will get all of the air out, so you may not have to bleed it at the bottom.

 

I thought that since my banjo has taken the place of riding during these winter months, why not put it's picture as my avatar? For those closet banjo fans around here, My new (old) banjo is a 1946 Gibson, signed by Earl Scruggs himself. OK...OK...I admit it, I'm a little proud of it. These things don't come around every day, it is in perfect shape and sounds GREAT!!

 

i want banjo mp3's!

so i just went downstairs and checked the scene. i couldn't figure out the banjo bolt thing until very last so i didn't bleed it, but will tomorrow (or late tonight if it just won't leave me alone.) i discovered the little porthole with the lower line.. mine seems to be just below the line and is it air above? anyway, when i added more fluid it won't go in, so there MUST be air in there right? so yes, i'll be loosening said bolt in the morn'. as for now, the cover is on loosely and the reservoir is pretty much full. and to dispel any suspense, i got a little fluid on the lower frame and that paint just crumbled away.. it wasn't too pretty to begin with and i probably can cover it up with some grey spray paint.

 

Brake fluid works better than paint remover. Peels it right up! Just think if that got on your tank.

 

Errant tube issue as well

I too have an 83 VF750 F (v45 Intercerptor) and looking forward I have a tube that sits between the 3rd and 4th Carb, about mid way it comes off the fuel supply tube and (like daniel) mine is not firing having sat in tha garage for a while. I have a manual (parts) for the vf750 (bad PDF version) and it states it as a fuel hose. When the fuel pump fires and the engiine tries to turn over this tube spits out fuel... It looks like it should go somewhere -but I have no idea where... any help... will post a photo soon if that helps.

 

I didn´t feel like reading the whole forums

so i've got this bike that i picked up that sat cold in a garage for years and years.. it's only got 700 miles on it. but there's been problems. starting with a realllly rusty tank (which i replaced) amongst other things. i've got a good guy on the job now (who mostly restores old honda v-twins... you could check out his website SS Classics | Vintage Honda Motorcyles | Cafe Racers | Venice, Los Angeles if you'd care to), but we're still having difficulties. here they are:

the only way the bike will start and idle is on full choke.. the mech has been looking for what the carb jetting should be. he thinks maybe the carbs we're rejet oddly. anyone know the jetting for an 83?

Try to boost up your idle speed on the side of the carbs.No idle speed no fuel that is why maybe you have to give the whole thrust to get it to start also check your choke if that is set right

a tube leads off the carb but goes nowhere.. are we missing something? maybe we're not getting vacuum on the air intake? i'm no mechanic so you could call me clueless.

This tube is probarly your overflow tube for the carbs she shall just stay like this out in the air.If anyone else has said it allready then upps but I didn´t feel like reading the whole forums.
i love the bike, i just want to ride it! any help with these issues would be of great assistance. thanks...

 

A good rule of thumb is that all the "lower" tubes are fuel tubes. All the "upper" tubes are air tubes.

Between the rear carbs, the upper air tube should have 2 nipples. One nipple is connected via rubber hose to the upper air tube between the front carbs.

The second nipple on the rear carb upper air tube has a "J" shaped rubber hose that vents to atmosphere.

If you have fuel coming out of any of the air tubes, then you typically have float needle issues.

>>>>>>>

If this happens on a bike that has been sitting for as short as 3 months, it usually means the low speed fuel passages are clogged and the carb needs to be soaked in carb cleaner and blown out with compressed air. Running sea-foam through the tank may help.
Note: contrary to most bike's chokes, Honda V4's are not air-restricting, but gas-enriching - so the choke is substituting for the clogged passages. Also the idle should be set above 1000 rpm at least. Most v-twins idle at lower rpms.

Any online microfiche has the carb jet sizes - just check the part description (not the part #) Try Motorcycle Parts|ATV Parts|Honda|Kawasaki|Suzuki|Yamaha|Dealer|Tires|Repair Manuals|Wholesale Discount Prices.

 

Thanks for the reply.. yes the J tube vents to the air and yes - definitely had float issues. Got the new carb kits for them and spend the day stipping a green n crusty gunge off the needles etc in the float chamber. Found the major issue with the fuel as well that being one of those plastic t-tubes that is connected tween the carbs has broken and the brass pullout on the carb choke inlet has snapped off as well. Thats going to be hard to replace.

Thanks for the help though

 

Bleeding the clutch is fairly easy. Startby putting the fluid in the resevoir, Pump the lever until you feel it get tight. COuld take 15 minutes of pumping, mine did after I drained it. Once you feel it get tight again, put more fluid in the resevoir and go down to the bleed valve on the clutch itself Open the valve 1/2 turn witha tube on it, and pump until no more air bubbles come from the line and its steady fluid. Once steady, keep the clutch held in and close the bleed valve, Top the resevoir off and your good to go.